styler

thanks dude, ill look into that one!

you know the funny thing about all this is that you correct some information so aggressively and passionately with, well, some more incorrect information lol. no need to scream and shout, just point it in the right direction! peace out!

lol dude, i am aware its 20 and 22 spline output. just like your little typo error, my post was not completely accurate which i was well aware of at the time. i stated that some specs needed to be verified, it gives people something to start on and discuss seeing since no-one has written a t50 gearbox guide yet.

so the difference is that one has 20 and the other 1 has 20? err? maybe typo dude? dude if you read my first post properly you will realise that i have thrown up some points about the t50 gearbox for people to check on and substantiate, not a definative guide. which means some points will be right and some wont, especially when you consider i have about 15 points up there off the top of my head regarding many different aspects of the t50 box, which cars it came in and interchangeability. i just havent got around to changing my post to suit or do the writeup, the funny thing is i have two t50 20 splines and two t50 22 spline gearboxes in my shed and havent had time to pull them out to do the specs on them or sort out the various clutches and bellhousings i have for them. which means you can post up what you have found out and contribute, good work.

heres some more information on the t50 t50 information

this is your 39 post opportunity to add some useful information and make some respect for yourself,not act like a little kid and have a tantrum. Tantrum - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia A tantrum is an emotional outburst wherein higher brain functions are unable ... Usually tantrums are seen in children of the ages of 3-6 but sometimes 7-9; ... See this is a discussion forum... and this is a thread to clarify the t50 gearbox specs as it would be great if people knew the differences and then it would go up in the FAQ and help people out. go back to school.

lol i feel your pain! been there and done that... in all honesty to buy a kit at $16, pull apart the old one, hone it and change the impossible seals... vs $24 for a brand new one its just not worth the effort of rebuilding old ones! ever. (note: prices are for ta22 about 2 years ago from repco) but i didnt know this when i had to change mine and thinking a kit may be much cheaper went the same way. i know how bloody impossible it is to get those seals on!! only advice i can give is get a new cylinder! or if you really must do it a clutch/brake shop can do it or you need a smooth tapered shaft to stretch the seal up the tapered shaft and on to the slave shaft with clutch fluid to lubricate, just look around for a tapered shaft and modify the bigger end to be slightly bigger than the slave shaft. the hours i spent at that bloody slave cylinder rebuild! i shot one seal off the a 3rd floor balcony trying to strech it with needlenose pliers for the millionth time and found it an hour later in a drain only to strech it too much and snap it seconds later at 2am...

true... usually in 4 stroke 4 cylinder a lot of one = a fair amount of the other though, in a super oversquare single cylinder 2 stroke or a mega undersquare v8 diesel motor it may not be quite the same!

hey, on my ke25 i am doing the ke70 brake upgrade. now i wouldnt mind a dual circuit brake master cylinder and one thats a bit bigger to suit the ke70 calipers as the ke70 calipers use a 20.64 bore, compared to the corolla 17.46 bore. the rear wheel cylinders are both 20.64 on the ke25 and ke70. now the galant ga master brake cylinders are no longer avaliable supposedly but are 19.05 bore which would be good. the galant gd master brake cylinders are still avaliable in boosted 20.64 bore and non boosted 17.46 bore. now the questions are... if i use the non boosted one will 18% bore difference make that much pedal difference to drive around? update: well area original 244mm squared to 334mm squared = 37% increase area so it seems it does make quite a difference... and... i am thinking will the boosted one have the same flange but just a bigger bore, so i could use it in a non boosted application as it will bolt up to the firewall and pedal will interface to it the same? :hmm:

ah yeah i am aware of that, i mean sensibly or harshly in common sense form... like driving it hard as opposed to trying to thrash it as hard as possible. if you drive any average modded car like you want to break it, you probably will, like side stepping the clutch constantly for a standstill burnout etc... shock loading ftw on gearbox deaths lol!

just this one really, easy dude! 2 months aint that long ago...

rose joints are great when done properly, unfortunate that they are illegal on street though apparently its not due to them being strong enough but rather the adjustable side of things like if the adjustment retainer (nut) comes loose when you are driving along then the lower control arm gets loose and wobbly around the joint. someone mentioned they could be engineered for strength but I'm not sure that addresses the adjustable issue. lol on a more amusing side of things those eccentric camber adjuster bolt sets are sometimes undersize and flex or break, or just simply come loose and camber goes all over the place. when i first saw those sets i thought that may happen... at least they are only 1/2 deg or so, so hopefully no one has been injured from them coming loose.

you can get mounts remade, ie take in the old ones and they fill it with new rubber. else try other vehicles as they could be modded to suit.

yeah good advice above, definately don't go lowering blocks. at $100 anyway! rather invert the leaf pack and add a leaf if wanted, its the best way to lower a mild amount, which retains the original suspension travel. else if after more lowering, invert and reset at a slightly lower height.

man you have got to love auto electricians for their expertise. it can take days of agony to fix the problem yourself, thats if you ever find it lol...

... maybe get it installed at a workshop. or learn basic electronics, buy some tools and parts then red = usually positive black / ground = negative white = usually lights green = usually signal pink = usually memory (not applicable for tacho) you can spline into an existing power wire or run a new one from battery for power, but *you would want the device to turn off when you turn the car off* so its best to splice into the accessories circuit or any circuit powered from accessories for low current drawing devices, for larger devices use a relay setup triggered off accessories. joining methods are: strip plastic coating, solder, heatshrink. cut wires, crimps, join crimps. use wire taps. use one way insert boxes. use terminal strips. use plugs, ie molex etc. don't cut wires, then twist them together and cover with tape. its wrong in so may ways. hey check this out: how to connect wires also a set of insulating rachet crimpers are far superior to those crap simple ones.

2tg can fit in ke20 aus spec but its not the optimal fit. you can reweld the engine mounts more forward and one side lifted up a bit to sit level. or you can mod 2t engine mounts to suit.

american autos rare spares the rubber shop?

theres actually a few variants of the t50, maybe someone should do a writeup :hmm: ta22 t50 t18 t50 sprinter t50 aus sprinter t50 import any more? anyone know the differences? some info comes to mind: *edit - this info below is going to be edited so i can do a writeup guide, feel free to add, correct or modify* theres a 20 and 22 spline output that distinguish the two boxes apart 20 spline = early gearbox from ta22(2t/2tg) 22 spline = late gearbox from t18 (3tc), sprinter (4ag) all t50 gearboxes split case alloy, 4 castings (bellhousing, 2 halves and shifter extension) 4 speed = t40, 5 speed = t50 t18 has a longer shifter housing but is interchangable 22 spline is stronger 1st and 2nd gear bellhousings are different ta22 / ae86 / t18 bellhousings are interchangable 4ag adm / jdm difference t18 has different bellhousing to celica as in piviot point is different i found out bellhousings and shifter housings are interchangable can't use a 22 spline for a 20 spline or visa - versa unless changing tailshaft or weld new yoke on old shaft 20 spline for 200hp driven sensibly or 150 driven harshly 22 spline for 250 hp driven sensibly or 180 driven harshly clutch friction plate the same splines and size flywheels will fit some boxes but not others due to some being larger. early box has smaller front bearing and later box has a bigger front bearing shifters and shifter housings are different with t18, ta22, 4ag output seals not the same 20 spline and 22 spline clutch setup not interchangable unless flywheel the same early gearboxes are shorter in length and later gearboxes are longer in length front seal is the same gearbox ratios short shift kits avaliable as well as replacement nylon gearstick bush early t50 input shaft smaller tip, later t50 input shaft bigger tip not sure on all of this but id like to know so help out if you can!

to be honest with you panel beating / body repairs are a fine art. most panel shops will try to replace panels or weld new ones in before trying to straighten panels fully, ie file finish them with no filler. else its the common straighten it as much as you can and use filler to finish. thats why a overrated car is worth a lot more than an average one. people complain as to why a overrated car is twice the price of an average one, not realising that to fix an average car to the same condition is about 4 times the price or more lol.. it comes down to either how much you want to spend or what finish you want. and also theres many combinations of methods and materials for painting which different people use for their way of painting a car to their liking, many which achieve the same outcome. preparing a car can be anything from a super rusted dented ground up rebuild to a super straight rust free respray wipe over job... the paint job can be anything from a external shell spray to a complete engine bay / underbody / internal sprayjob. some aspects: what is the car like what type of paintjob do you want how much do you want to spend - $1000 what skills do you have what equipment do you have what facilities do you have you need to give a load more information, a good idea is to buy a book on painting a car which includes all the nesassary information for you to make an informed decision on what you want, then it will be easier to give you technical information and advice. good books avaliable from automotive bookstores in your state, online, friends or maybe the library.

preparation = 99% of the work painting is the easy part! you could bog up, smooth and paint a rolla for around $1000 if you worked along with someone. the unfortunate effect of new paint is that it highlights any bad body areas, so that small unnoticeable dent now looks like the grand canyon.

dunno if this is any help to you but may be for other people, and its in the faq lol... :D rollaclub faq alternator tech

hey dude, nice progress you have made there :D

use a steering wheel puller kit or 2 jaw puller, both $15 to $20 ea at trade tools. i found the 2 jaw puller works well on boss kits. it takes under 5 seconds on the tightest of steering wheels and wont damage the wheel. sometimes you can get it off using a mallet, muscle or wiggle it if its not on too tight but its a fair bit of sweat and time and can damage the wheel if it is stuck. the wheel is fitted on using tapered spline and the nut forces it to jam on there when done up so it wont come off, thats why they are difficult to remove.

haha, you are going to be an eccentric old man later in life, flying down the road in a jet powered go kart welded together by a modded alternator! on the subject of max amps, look at the existing alternator setup in the car it came from. ie how fast that engine spun and what pulleys the engine and alternator have, to get an idea of how much it was putting out. you can always downsize the pulley on the alternator and use a shorter belt on the new setup to give a lower current.