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styler

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Everything posted by styler

  1. no, not really. how cheap is cheap? most people do a custom sort of brake upgrade with varying results. hopper stoppers bolt on kit for $1200 is a good price.
  2. just remember that the factory speedo buffer is there for wear and reading compensation, its a bad idea to make it exact as it leaves no room for any slight error unfortunately.
  3. yeah indeed, pics all good medicine man. i think you may have a typo on trueno instead of levin up there I'm with medicine man, i was under the impression that the ae86 came in: 2 body shapes: hatchback and notchback 2 types of front ends: fixed light (levin) and pop up headlight (trueno) 2 engines: 4ac and 4ag australia only got ae86 hatchback with levin front end and 4ac. other countries had different combinations of body shape, front ends and engines but I'm not sure exactly what all those combinations are. one common one would be the hatchback trueno 4ag in japan
  4. yeah its most likely the balancing or rims are buckled. else its steering / suspension / braking components
  5. its not the inch size of the rim, doesnt count at all. it the rolling diameter of the tyre which affects the speedo. try kumho tyres website for a calculator that compares the rolling diameter to your old one.
  6. thats okay, its only if you buy a registered car theres a certain amount of time to transfer it without getting a late transfer fine.
  7. 88% in 6 min haha too many questions to read them twice!
  8. yes, i, mr xxx, the full owner of this car have sold it to mr xxx with payment in full on the date xxx
  9. cold air induction I'm guessing
  10. All discs are all interchangeable (the Corolla hubs are the same except for wheel stud pattern), or if you change hubs as well, KE1x and 2x have smaller inner wheel bearings than the later cars. If changing from smaller disc to larger disc, you will need caliper mounts from a KE30 or KE55, as KE70 caliper plates have a different stud pattern. On most KE1x/2x cars, you will have to drill a tap the caliper mounting plates to M10x1.25, as the later model plates use larger bolt holes to mount to the strut. courtesy of superjamie, from the faq
  11. yeah read that :P 215rwhp out a 5k? 215rwhp = 160rwkw = approx 200kw at the fly. 5k stock = appprox 50kw at the fly so you don't want to increase the power a bit, you don't want to have double the power either or even triple the power!! but wait for it..................... quadruple the power?? its like taking a 50yr old whore to a gangbang, sure you can do her up before and spend loads of money on getting more out of her, but in the end, after a few hours, it all going to fall apart.
  12. 500hp on forced induction I'm guessing?
  13. generally speaking most turbo motors don't run big cams, usually stock or mild as far as i know. for 3tc modification you can't go past toyota3tc.com, the biggest and best 3tc site, also lots of old skool corollas there too:)
  14. terminal ends can work on straight pull cable setups. on a changing angle setup ie a lever arm you need either a barrel end cable stop and a barrel shaped recess or a swivel end built into the end of the arm which some arms have, some even have bearings! but most just grease. or a wrap around arm where the cable curves around the arm and pulls away from the arm as it moves inwards. but you don't have to have one of the above, you can clamp the wire on the arm using a cable through clamp bolt or drill a hole in a very thin arm and put a screw type cable end on the other side, thats only if if the angle doesnt change much, you hardly use it and it doesnt take much force then it will last but if its used a lot, takes a fair force and has a big angle change then it will fatigue and snap regularly which happens to dodgy carb linkages as i found out :jamie: so i looked into it and found out the above then got some decent linkage.
  15. for bigger ones - push bike, go kart, minibike, big motor bike, mower and carb shops. for smaller ones - hobby shops try screw type "cable ends" rather than wire stops :jamie:
  16. yeah just struck me its going to be a tad troublesome chasing down commodores in a v8 corolla and then rushing back home before the cops catch you in your 1300cc car. so that leaves the other engines which have been put into road legal blue plated ke corollas before, code of practice says ke55 = 920kg LA engine section - option 3 - replacement engine with safety upgrade - 4 cylinder and less than 1100kg - NA in cc = weight in kg X 3 - forced induction in cc = weight in kg X 2.5 so ke55 NA = 920 x 3 = 2760cc ke55 forced induction = 920 x 2.5 = 2300cc any moderate upgrade wont require a driveline upgrade, anything more will so take that into the budget too and its not cheap as in a few grand will probably sort you out if you research it and do it yourself as much as you can. moderate = 120hp at the fly driving sensibly. a rough idea of what an engine conversion may start to cost you, if you are mechanically skilled, have the tools needed and the equipment or can borrow them. buying the engine and gearbox, fitting to car, fluids, tailshaft and rear end conversion if over 120hp: if everything goes to plan, a stock engine conversion non rebuilt diy rough idea..... 5k = $800 ca18 = $3000 4agze = $6000 ca18det = $6000 sr20det = $8000 then theres the problem of gee i think i should get a half decent decent corolla for my $8000 sr20 conversion, so two or three grand plus a few grand for bodywork, paint and rims/tyres and interior. then haha I'm enjoying this, theres the much needed brake conversion to some bigger rotors with calipers to suit either bolt on hoppers stoppers kit or custom job for around $1200. i have probably missed a few things like cooling upgrade and maybe a basic stereo etc which also costs a few hundred here and there. so theres your formula for a well equipped knowledgeable car enthusiast with time, space and patience... add it up!
  17. how much money do you want to spend: a few hundred bucks one grand? a few grand? 5 grand? 10 grand? thats the easiest way to let you know your options. putting the 302 in a ke55 is only the start, then its gearbox, diff, fuel, cooling and more!
  18. lol doesnt exist unless you add unreliable. as they say- cheap, fast, reliable. pick 2
  19. well obviously go get another set of ke20 struts, other struts wont fit without modifying and even if they do you will have to take time and money to modify them and then they will affect the front end geometry too much if you don't know what you are doing. ke20 came with drums front and disk front. go find disk front struts and upgrade to the ke70 brakes another time.
  20. qld code of practice = 920kg for a 2door ke55 so you can work off that. - section LA option 3: - replacement engine with safety upgrade - less than 1100kg factory - NA = weight in kg x 3 Forced induction = weight in kg x 2.5
  21. they were common in all forms - 2 door hardtop and 4 door sedan they are now rare in overrated condition $3000 approx rwc rego some around in good condition $2000 approx rwc rego loads in crap/rusted/dented condition $500 approx no rwc no rego id say hardtops would fetch a higher price if you can find someone who would part with one. doesnt matter how much they weigh or how much anyones ke55 weighs for engine conversions or the like. it only matters what the qld code of practice - light motor vehicles says they weigh. i have this and can post it up when i get time to look it up. as for info buy a gregorys manual and google for a while and check some pics out like has been said. trd lol havent heard that one before interesting... well you want to know info... its an old corolla FR layout its light (will give weight when i find it about 850kg) most have rust and dents 4 cylinder k series motor seats 4 or 5 manual 4 and 5 speed avaliable many motor/gearbox/diff conversions possible live diff, 6 inch 2 pinion non lsd 13 inch rims recirc ball steering small disc fronts, drum rears macpherson strut front, live leaf rear. and a few other bits, buy the manual and it will tell you the rest and probably some stuff i got wrong but its a rough idea anyway eh
  22. you must be c budges brother.
  23. auto electrician time
  24. ke70 brakes are an easy moderate upgrade, do search, otherwise you can change to ta22 struts + brakes or ra60 struts + brakes (strut conversions are a bit of work and may affect geometry though) or a custom setup - dics, calipers and brackets eg magna / mini / pug discs and commodore calipers with custom made brackets etc etc...
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