styler

anythings possible :y: what do you want out of the project though? do you have the resources to do most of it it yourself? how much do you want to spend on the project? it could end up anything from an unreliable expensive dodgy thrash car worth nothing to a decently built strong burnout car.

hey i have also been stuck doing an alternator upgrade on my old ke30 corolla. what i wanted was a bosch one (external removable brush/diode pack) around 70 amp and mounted passanger side with similar bracket mounting. i ended up at wreckers sorting through hundreds of them and found a few at 70 amp ones but they were too small a mount length etc... then found a old ford falcon one which was suitable with a bit of modification. can't remember the exact details, might have to check on it but i think i removed the front plate and changed it with my one and cut down the rear plate to make it fit as it was too small. it was a bit of a pain to do but i got there. i would say the easiest way would be to change the mounting on the engine, possibly with the falcon on and modify to suit the block, but I'm not sure it will work with the tensioner arm setup? check on toymods.net, i remember someone else also modded a falcon one on a corolla and may have more details. i will be doing another bosch one soon anyway depending on what condition my old one is in. when getting an old one check the bearing play any how easily it spins for an indication of condition. look on the old and new alternators for symbols and terminal types when trying to rewire them up, usually you can work it out.

spelling, grammar and write some sense first. i wouldnt recommend your friends suggestion as its probably something he thought of on the spot. it would be a lot of work for a little reward unless someones done it before and had great results with it which is a possibility but unlikely. i would recommend you look into building a tough 4k or recommended engine swaps such as the 4ag series of motors.

try get the piviot from the original gearbox bellhousing and swapping it with the 1g piviot? as far as i know they are bolt on. else a machine shop can take a bit off the back of the piviot if thats what you need.

hey try cleaning the contacts on the bulb holder and on the bulbs.

mad fun haha :y: i went to your website, some good videos there! lol dyno run... presenter "have a guess how much horsepower!" crowd "about 60hp!" presenter "no youre way wrong...." presenter "....its 55hp people!" bah! about 60hp FTW!

hey dude you can buy linkage kits or have a go at making your own using a cable setup which is quite easy. i'll see if i can find some instructions or pics for ya.

sounds pretty awesome :) you would think it would produce a lot more power though for 36 psi! :jamie: i mean its 36 PSI!! but on a good note i bet it has an awesome smooth power curve from the twin charge setup, not like some cars that have a huge turbo with no bottom end and then suddenly boost up to 800hp top end. there have been a few successfull attempts at the twincharge setups like the nissan march as said, i like the idea! plumbing is quite complex though lol... and engine management must be pretty advanced to control the whole system. how the hell a 10.0:1 engine takes 36psi is a bloody wonder?!

put in your location! good start. a wheel spinning 2.6L 5 speed ke corolla drifter? not so good.

yeah take it to an auto electrician instead of a mechanic, its an auto electric speciality, not really a standard mechanic sort of job unless a simple short or fuse swap etc...

its finding wheels in 7 inch that have the correct offset / backspace to clear everything under all suspension travel thats more the problem. if anyone wants to run massive wheels (rims and tyres) on a old average rolla its their choice, but from a technical/logical/performance aspect its not worth it, other wheels (rims and tyres) are more readily avaliable for the rollas and have no clearance issues, they work very well, are much lighter, and are cheaper for rims and tyres. but say you just had to have a certain set of wheels that you found which turned out to be 7 inch wide then so be it. or if you owned a highly modified rolla like a 13 sec drag car or something then i would see the point, otherwise i don't see why a 50hp rolla needs 7 or 8 inch wide wheels when it couldnt break traction in 4.5? inch wide wheels...

i am looking at a mig for doing my project car, single phase, gas, med duty (8mm max) any recommendations? advice? brands? tradetools have a unimig panther for about $500...

195's are the absolute minimum for a 7 inch, 185's are too narrow. and yes 195's would clear on an old rolla but they are more suited to a 6 inch rim. 6 inch rims accept 175's to 205's which is all a street/race rolla needs for all round, why would you run 7 inch rims up front when you don't need them? for the rears they are suitable. but yes i did point out the common 14 x 7 supra wheel as a popular wheel for older toyota rwd, i just wouldnt go out my way to fit 7 inch fronts as they don't have any improvement over a 6 / 6.5 inch rim. i mean like people spend thousands of dollars modifying the wheel well to fit the biggest wheel they can, with a hairline of clearance all round... what for? so when the car drives around and all the suspension moves around the wheel can rub? well its a free country and rice is cheap so whatever floats your boat! just look at all the 18 inch chromie tin fart neon rice cars out there... heres a tyre chart anyway: tyre chart

hey wrote up a reply but it didnt show up, anyway in short version: ****it really depends on the offset of the rim*** if it will fit or not, but say the offset is correct and it fits and clears in the wheel well... (which is unlikely) street / race rollas don't need 15x7 all round, 15x7 is huge for a early rolla ke 10 / 15 / 20 / 25 / 30 / 50 / 55's, especially the fronts, the rear arches of rollas are renowned to be big which is good but the fronts are small, so unless you are going to have a mis matched set its unlikely you can run those rims all round. tyre range for 7 inch is like 205 - 225 or something, quite wide, too wide for a rolla on the front, you will get scrub, rub and hit suspension gear most likely. its heavier - more rolling resistance and unsprung mass. recommended - 13's, 14's, 15's X 5.5, 6, 6.5 (6.5 at most) with offsets to match original backspace or very close, then its only a matter of guard clearance on the other side of the rim. tyres 185, 195, 205, 215, 225 (215, 225 for rears only ) x profile to match original rolling diameter (keeps speedo and clearance the same) obviously drag cars are a class of their own and this doesnt apply to them with their tubs and skinny fronts. some people want to stuff the biggest widest wheel possible in their car when its still and wheels straight with a few mm of clearance all round, then forget when its moving the wheels move around, up and down and turn as well as lean in and out. so thats when it rubs, scrubs and hits... lol... one common jap wheel in 7 inch is the 14 x 7 supra rim and has a fairly good offset to suit old toyota rwd as far as i know, but you would have to run lower profile skinny tyres on it, like 205's. i think some people have them on ke70's but not ke 10 / 15 / 20 / 25 / 30 / 50 / 55's. well good luck, i hope you end up with a decent set of wheels in the end :)

well first of all you would be better off doing a 4ag conversion in an ae71 for a few good reasons. 2tg's are still around in whole engines and parts but you have to look around to find one, they came out in a few cars. in australia they are mainly from the ta22 celica's as far as i know. as for fitting one, how long is a piece of string? do you have a ae71 and a 2tg motor already or avaliable by purchase to convert? how mechanically skilled are you? do you have all the tools / equipment to do a conversion? have you done an engine conversion before? can you get all the conversion parts? are you familiar with ae71's or 2tg's? are you going efi or single carb or twin sidedrafts? can you get a few mechanical minded people to help you? if you pass all these questions adequately then I'm sure someoone can write you up an informative reply on how to do it.

try this too, it is the best 2tg info site i have ever found :) 2tg spotters guide

2tg head on 3tc block : you pretty much need an entire 2tg motor to donate all the timing gear. rotate some bearings round to block off oil (can't remember the specifics of this atm) heads : all flow around 200hp stock - a guy on toymods bench flowed them. so thats heaps more than needed. all heads have big valves except the first one which is rare. all heads have dome chambers except the 262 head (unmarked) which has a kidney shaped combustion chamber and is unsuitable. early heads have more aggressive cam profiles. not sure this info is all right but as far as i know and what i can remember it is. should do a writeup on it.

lovell super lows. king super lows. they might have to be made by request but usually shelf item. note manufacturers of super lows have no guarantee on the springs and they specifiy that the superlow springs are to be used by show cars only. but you can use them however you like :) or reset original springs. or get some custom ones made up. 2 inches is a fair bit, but every man to his own, i can only say it reduces suspension travel, ground clearance and alters front end geometry the lower it goes. RCA's (roll centre adjusters) will fix the geometry problem though.

no way! :) for something twice as fast and a quarter of the price buy a factory awd car, like a pulsar gtir, spend a few grand and walk out with tens of thousands of dollars in your pocket. not saying it can't be done! its just a lot more expensive than it looks!

yeah ram air is the only effective method but it doesnt have much of an effect, unless super high speed. and cold air induction is just cold air, no pressure. lol yeah the erm intake is above to exhaust as has been said, so theres not much point in the cold air intake :)

i have 2 hybrid motors ;), i have been into the hybrid motors ever since i found out how awesome corollas are :) my first rolla had a monster 1940cc dual twin 45 weber and early head which has the more aggressive cams as well as numerous other mods. 1940 is too big, and the bore walls will be too thin in my opinion. around 1920cc or less is a better spec (88.5mm max bore is safe) the hybrid is a fantastic motor setup for many reasons: almost bolt in for ke rolla (the entire conversion) few gearbox options twincam head 8 big valves (16 is just too many :) ) extractors avaliable and fairly priced the locally made 3tc parts are interchangable with late model 2tg you can still get twincam parts and performance parts a few stock cams with different grinds $100 per cam for regrind to any spec webers work well and still avaliable inlet manifold is twin sidedraft as stock, also avaliable from redline quite a few 2tg parts still around to replace old components t50 is starting to get expansive though - takumi tax w50/w55 box easily fitted crossflow motor! with alloy hemi head! reliable valve train but must be setup 110% right solid strong bottom end 3tc pistons + rings + flycut $300 cheap :) (also must use 3t crank!) local 2t motor can be used for replacement block with few mods borg warner diff holds up if you don't dump the clutch and be reckless. makes decent power and torque across most of the rev range :) and many other advantages... but: it is quite an old motor. it has to be set up 110% right especially the head!, if you are doing it yourself it takes some patience to make sure its all set up right - cams etc, else get it done professionally. some parts can be expensive like some of the timing gear but most of it is pretty cheap considering other new motor part prices! you need to spend quite some time researching and a bit of cash fully decking this motor out properly and it will be an awesome motor, else it will be pretty average which is common and still works well in a rolla. a lot of people have moved on to the 4ag series of motors: 4ag 16v, 4ag 20v, 4agze, 4agte (custom turbo setup ) as a newer alternative with is own 4ag series pros and cons. anyway : it doesnt have super mega 300hp, but it doesnt need it if you have a well setup car (suspension etc) which is light - around 800kg, its very fast around a track! wont beat a v8 commodore on the straight but would lap him around a raceway lol.... :D i rate it! :)

hey thanks xany, that didnt come to mind. i have a spare ballast resistor to suit in the shed so i'll try that out.

its my bro's ke30 corolla, i can't seem to find out what the problem is! turn key - dash lights on - crank - engine cranks over fine - starts - key returns - car dies. gone over everything but maybe someone knows what it is! gone over: dizzy - points, cap, rotor, timing, condensor. fuel - lines, filter in bay, pump. carby - seems to work ok, fuel coming in, nothing fallen off. checked valve train - nothing broken, adjusted tappets whilst in there. manifolds - seem ok, tightened up manifold gasket set. alternator - belt a bit loose, tightened up. oil - was a bit low, filled up. valve saver - he has been getting valve additive in most tanks. plugs - were carboned up, so replaced with new, spark is still small orange (not big bright blue) hmmm... air filter - ok car wasnt running hot - had all coolant there its stuck out in another suburb but these things came to mind afterwards: maybe its the coil or coil to dizzy lead? or condensor on coil or dizzy? or fuel blockage in lines, it was hard to blow bubbles through the line with petrol cap off - or is there a filter in the tank that has gummed up? or a relay for the ignition circuit is not working? or exhaust is blocked? or alternator is not putting out enough power, ie worn bushes? or spark isnt strong enough from a fault in the ignition circuit we thought it might be the ignition barrel not working correctly but it has good operation and i have had worse barrels that have still worked... anyway ANY suggestions to fix this problem welcome!

those old lancers are pretty cool, i really rate them overall :y: and very light too, i almost got into them but parts are rare.

theres some food for thought! awesome to say the least!