styler

low = good very low = very gay lowering is great when you go a decent amount, and after that its just silly... it changes the geometry of the suspension too much and having no bump stops is dangerous. and you need short stroke stuff too. then you scrape everywhere and when you have passengers its even worse. one good invention is rca's, i will be getting a set for the ke25 if applicable.

yeah me too :P i have all the old issues, even number 1! and almost all of them from the eighties and early nineties. after that some mid nineties and a few modern issues. nothing like a ke27, rx3, ford escort mkI, rx7 s2 issue hehe... surprisingly for some, back then modified beetles were as common as modified wrx's of today and a few ran 10 sec passes :cool: with space age moonwheels :lol:

now thats a te27 rebuild! damn.... well i can see why he does it all, i am in the same position. wow taking off the outer body! removing the front engine bay section! damn now thats a lot of work! and probably went through 10 spot weld drills i imagine lol...

not allowed to have on when in motion as far as i know. can't say i am a fan of any flashing bling bling :Þ

i can't say i would recommend any way other than a guard rolling machine, no point in welding or panelbeating with their complications unless skilled in the area of course :D apparently the paint is heated , so when rolled it has less chance of cracking. and it comes out all nice and smooth for about $50 a corner.

the signal wire on a tacho for older cars goes to the negative side of the ignition coil.

yeah i go according to manual, any more and its the equivalent of them being worn, much less and they may not work too well either.

well considered the locker (welded) but didnt choose it due to legality and driveline stress from everyday driving. lockers would be stronger than the original diff because the pinion gears and side gears are welded together as a unit which leaves only the input pinion and ring gear operating which is a strong setup. then the axels start breaking lol.

i have seen a couple of setups for anti tramp bars, all being custom made for each car but i thought i saw some universal unit a while ago? i'll see if i can find it.

what are you all on about? i do 300km/hr every day, the corolla gets to 160 and then starts to lift in the air, then the rocket boosters come on and i fly to work hahhahahahaahhahahahaa

"Recalibration When a mechanical speedometer is suspected of being inaccurate, Beale Instruments check it against a Smiths Speedometer Calibration machine. If the speedo does come up with a false reading, it is either partially magnetised or de-magnetised accordingly. For example, to trim downwards the speedo's indicated speed, the magnets at the back of the gauge are moved up against a de-magnetising block built into the calibration machine. This reduces the amount of magnetism on the gauge's main shaft, and the needle therefore doesn't travel as far." " If the speedo unit itself is functioning accurately but you've altered the car's overall gearing (diff ratio or wheel diameter), you need a ratio box. The first step is to drive the car with a pulse counter plugged in to measure the number of speedo shaft revolutions over a measured distance (say, one kilometre). This number is then cross-referenced on a special chart and the right gear for the job is chosen from the list. It's then just a matter of putting the right gear set into the small ratio box housing and installing it to the cable between the gearbox and the speedometer input. These mechanical ratio boxes generally cost around $110 retail." "Contact: Beale Instruments +61 8 8445 6644 [email protected]"

id say calibration would be cheaper than a mechanical ratio box, there was an article on autospeed about it all, older speedo's use a magnetic drive which can be adjusted, hang on i'll go have a look...

a day at a few different wreckers and not too much luck... was looking for a ke25 sized diff, which is 1320mm mounting face to mounting face corona mkII - too wide 14??mm r31 skyline - too wide 14??mm hiace - too wide 13??mm L300 - too wide 14??mm chrysler lancer - 1320mm! 120y - couldnt find one but is meant to be close 13???? commodore - too wide datsuns - some possibilities, will check out a few soon escort - 1340mm, little bit too wide ke30 - 1370mm, too wide ta22 - 1370mm, too wide volvo - too wide scorpion - too wide hilux old - 1370mm, too wide some vans - 1370, 1370+ too wide so not too many cars that would have suitable width diffs :sad: oh well looks like a shortening job then$$$

i started there lol and i have bookmarked all the other pages i went to, about 12 or so pages of info over a few days, i should post the findings up so people can see the options.

yeah i did check out the f series! its pretty good all round but the centres aren't too common or cheap so i seemed to find, if they were cheaper i would probably opt for one, although id recommend a f series diff from a mkII corona for a ke30, due to it also being same stud pattern and same width 1370mm.

much research has been done and its either the r31 or the hilux depending on cost of diff and conversion costs. other diffs : some were too wide, rare/expensive/unreliable lsd centres, stud pattern different, some too heavy, some weak axels etc. yeah escort diff would be good for the k series motors, its the same hub to hub width I'm pretty sure.

nissan 620/720 nissan vanette mitsubishi scorpion nissan bluebird trx ford escort datsun 120y looking through these atm... added: liteace hi ace datsun 1500

ok taped it up and it appears to be 1320mm. now i have started looking for diffs around that width, anywhere from 1310 to 1325 might fit ok. so far not much luck, some older nissan/datsun diffs, volvo, fiat is what i can find...

anyone know the diff length for a ke25?

whats the opinion on the lsd options for ke25? not keen on disk conversion, power to be around 160kw, width needs to be same as ke25 or shorter due to mags being 15x6 114.3x4pcd +20 offset so i have found so far.......................... t series : width same? weld mounts? , centre expensive, stud pattern same, drums, centre fairly strong. r31 : weld mounts, needs shortening, centre cheap, stud pattern same, disk or drum?, centres common and pretty good. hilux : weld mounts, length same - older model diff, stud pattern not same, cheap strong centre hiace : weld mounts, length same, centre?, stud pattern same? drum? , centre? mark II : weld mounts, with apparently same?, same stud pattern, drum?, uses supra centre so I'm thinking a shortened r31 will be the best bet... so the housing gets cut and shut and the axels get shortened, then the splines get extended further onto the axel. mounts get chopped off and rolla mounts get welded on. the centres are common and strong, but wear pretty quickly and arent too common in good nick so iv heard. anything else? any idea on cost?

hahhahaha wingnut indeed

hmmm so i suspected. on my ke30 the widest rim i have fitted and tested on all angles and suspension travel ( jacked car up lol ) is a soarer z10 15 x 6 114.3 x 4 pcd +20 offset, with 195 /50/ 15 rubber and it cleared the front strut and rolled guard, just.

all specs are ok, i have many wheels etc, widest being 6 inch, i want to know if a 6.5 inch can fit and clear everything. 114.3 x 4 pcd

will these fit a ke25 properly with the correct offset?

my dream car! they are so unheard of but so awesome. havent driven one but id snap up any chance to. they look a bit ugly though but the specs are pretty insane. damn quick :P