styler

hey i was reading this and from years of work and car projects i have built up quite a tool set, most of my standard type tools are force gear from trade tools and its pretty good from all perspectives like lifetime warranty, great quality, good carry cases, the extensive range in each set, all replacement items easily avaliable, many extra items avaliable, and best price anywhere so far even for replacement items. i can't write up everything but for instance i have 3 force socket sets (1/4, 3/8, 1/2 inch) which cover practically everthing you could ever lay a socket on with some double ups and costs less than $300 in total for all 3. when i get a chance i'll write up all the components. its really really the best socket sets for a good price after all the other sets i have used and seen. and if you lose items or need another extension or use pipe extensions :yes: its really cheap for replacement and extra parts in store. heres the pics where you can see the components: open the first one, click home on the website then close it and then the links will work from here. 1/4 set 3/8 set 1/2 set i use these almost everyday in the workshop and on the weekend they are also used on cars / motorbikes.

yeah not really worth stripping out the interior, i mean its a car with low stock power and no mods at all, it could at least be comfortable and have a decent interior. interior isnt that heavy, what is worth removing for weight is passengers, spare tyre and jack, big sound systems and sound deadening. but this also reduces your comfort like its loud, theres no company and you get stranded in the middle of the night with no spare tyre. you want improvement try handling, road holding, braking and driving skills - replace dampers, bushes, springs, get a strut brace, good tyres, decent brake pads, high temp brake fluid and read up on some driving skills.

no, but ke20 doors fit ke25, apparently you can drop the window frame down with some simple cutting and welding. heard this from a guy who has done it before and seemed to work fine. but obviously you can't make 25 doors fit 20's unless you extend the frame? ke20 doors are more easily avaliable than ke25's though!

LOL. went down the coast ages ago and didnt expect to see all you guys on a cruise. I'm the passenger in the lux haha... can't wait for my project car to be done around september then ill be out :kiwi:

well find out which section of the linkage is worn out and replace.

hey recently got a mars 180 amp mig gas welder with 8 output steps and 10 wire speed settings, has a 15% duty cycle and will be used for the project car. mainly for welding new sections into the cut out sections of rust, ie floorpan, tunnel, rear quarters, engine bay, guards etc... I'm going to practice a fair bit before doing the car and would like to know : 1) what gas do people recommend? i think the mix of 95% co2 and 5% argon would be good for welding quality and not too expensive, this might be called mig shield from what i have heard. i do have a 2 gauge regulator (pressure and flow? possibly). seems boc and gas places supply bottles on rent and refills. 2) and wire size for old jap ke corolla panels? I'm thinking the smaller the better as i don't want heat distortion, ie 0.6mm. the mig takes 0.6mm to 0.9mm so let me know your thoughts as i have had a few opinions... 3) and as for technique i will be learning so feel free to add any constructive basic methods, thinking of short mig welding course at tafe or book. some info on net but seems a lot of trial and error info to suss it out. 4) also write up any tips or trick methods, ie stitch welding slowly, cooling panels with water soaked cloths, weld through primers, tack welding sections, clamps, grinding off existing paint/galv etc.. :D

spigot locating rings will sort that out :D

one way is by having the kill switch in the ignition circuit, because once thats turned off then the car turns off but this doesnt disconnect all the things like accessories (eg gauges) or lights (at night) or constant memory wires (eg radio stations) that you always want to have power but it kills the motor. or you could turn the car off normally lol. but if you had an accident or fire etc then i imagine a kill switch to isolate the battery would be the best idea, to completely stop any short circuit hazards and fires etc, only the battery is in the engine bay and you wouldnt want to run the main power through the cabin. maybe remote via a relay if you could find a big enough one? I'm sure the rally and race guys have a solution for this... and for anti theft you definately want an inconspicuous kill switch like a magnetic reed relay or switch set under the seat or dash that is hard to get and out of sight. some people hook up a kill switch to stop the fuel supply for theft but it wouldnt be good for killing the motor as it takes a few seconds at least in carby cars. so i suppose it depends on what you want to use it for. also you can have more than one kill switch for different purposes. well thats my thoughts on kill switches anyway, maybe someone else has some more insight to it all...

hey interesting setup someone did in my old rolla was run the positive from the ignition terminal to the cigarette lighter power feed and when the lighter was pressed in the car died. and if you wanted to start it the lighter had to be out else it would be while waiting for it to pop out whilst cranking. maybe it could also be used to prime the motor with oil if someone so desired. i didnt really look into the setup much to see if it was by the book and not stuffing anything up but it seemed to work fine. that is until the passenger wanted a cigarette on the freeway.

sigma turbo rims :P 114.3x4 pcd, 15x6?, rwd offset. you would be very lucky to find a set as they are very popular with mitsubishi and datsun owners and can fetch a high price if in good condition.

toyota3tc.com

mz10 soarer rims sigma pepperpots and turbo rims (unsure of width or offset though) dr30 rims saab 114.3x4 pcd ones (unsure of width or offset) trx rims cressida rims

cool, will have a wander around and suss it out ;)

i have got longer control arms on the ke25, an increase of 25mm per arm and if i remember correctly is it the ra40 tie rod ends that can be used when longer control arms are installed as they are longer in length and will fit properly, ie have the same thread on one end and same taper on the end other as the ke25 tie rods?

hey i also looked at tyres for a while and concluded my search at kumho ku31's for performance, tyre life and fairly low cost as well as a large range. they basically superseed kumho 712's which were a well known tyre. wrote a list of contenders which i might post up :P

i have been exactly in your situation slapper and after all the research and shopping around i can tell you the only pump i would go for is the carter 4070 rotary vane, low pressure, high volume, self priming, lift capable, 5 psi, no return, no regulator, suitable for all weber setups. problems with carby pumps is that some pump designs are crap so they doesnt have needed features, or the regulator doesnt work properly or the setup is bad. i could go through all of this tech but in the end go the carter as its the best i have found. also no $60 regulator needed. else i have had sucess with a pierburg 5 psi pump low pressure, high volume, self priming, lift capable, no return, regulator needed though ( i used a holley adjustable - $90), pump cost $90 at supercheap. i can't say i could recommend facet from all the problems people get from them.

as raven said, you don't need it on the whole time. yeah adjustable thermo switch is easy to do as the sensor just slips inside the top radiator hose and is adjustable, no mods needed. or you can use a set thermo switch which needs to have a mounting nut brazed onto the radiator and it screws in, many ranges avaliable but not adjustable. you can hook up to ignition circuit so it turns off when the car is stopped (best method) or battery if you want it running when car is stopped, not that it would do much cooling of the engine as the waterpump is stopped, it would only really cool down the radiator and the engine bay a bit i guess. use a relay for both methods and decent wiring. nice battery clamp :jamie:

hey if you look on the xtremeclutch or daiken/exedy website it lists the flywheel step height for their clutch kits.

try a single question at a time, makes it easier for people to help you out.

that seems to be cut as in reground, meaning if it was worn then it gets ground down to the next undersize bearing to fit it and its like new. ie reconditioning the crank. it will still fit a stock motor as the bearings are undersize, ie thicker on the inside face to take up what was ground off. make sure you get the matching undersize bearings with it as they can be hard to source seperately.

go to imageshack host up the photo in resize mode 640x480 copy the hotlink for forums 1 open new window go to rollaclub paste the hotlink in your post swap to imageshack for more photo uploading, repeat whole process, can add multiple images in one post. dude previous and future spelling please ;)

sounds good, ca18 or ca18det are great motors. also lots of cheap aftermarket gear avaliable. easy on the eyedrops dude.

it can be done but its a lot of work and cost. also there is a aftermarket 4y crank that is stronger according to toyspeed, look on their website for more info regarding the 4y crank and fitament. also having such a long stroke also reduces the great revviness of the 2tg, ie its oversquare design and thats one of the best features of the small 2tg 1600 capacity engine. if you want ill look into sending you a 3tc crank over as they are more avaliable here in aus and if you have a later model 2tg block then it will fit without any mods, else earlier blocks require some grinding work to fit. stroker crank and overbore to 89mm = as big a 2tg as you want. some people recommend only going to 88.5 to retain a decent cylinder wall thickness. 3t - stroker pistons avaliable are: 85.5mm and 86mm over in cast about $300 set 87mm and 89mm in forged aftermarket $900 set custom cast any size about $600 set custom forged any size about $1200 set rememeber that the stroker crank needs matching stroker pistons, not stock 2tg pistons. a point often overlooked by people wanting to use the stroker crank in their 2tg. the stroker crank is from a 3t and many companies make cast and forged pistons to suit. i have found 2tg pistons are hard to find in cast or forged unless custom made.

matt black spraycans is the go. just expect it to look like absolute crap for the average rolla, so its great for a thrash car or paddock basher but no good for anything half decent. keep people 20m away and it will be okay! spraying a car is 90% preparation and 10% spraying if you have a old car. some good advice can be found in a car painting book for about $30.

info added earlier post