styler

hey here is a bit of criticism for you, learn how to spell the word before you use it or make use of it. another fact for you is that an opinion is not a fact. and BATMAN, please wipe your mouth, as you are dribbling shit all over the keyboard.

just saw this story and was thinking how many people use spigot locating rings? story

batman, next time you join a forum bring your brain, if thats not possible then don't join. "its not worth arguing with an idiot, they just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience"

:y:

if you are wanting to take the tie rod end out?... if so then sometimes it taps out with a hammer, sometimes a bigger hammer but generally it doesnt and is well stuck because its a tapered fit, ie designed to jam and be stuck in there once tightened up. even the biggest of hammers wont be of much use as you have to hold the arm still whilst the force of the hammer acts on it. i once put bricks under to do this which worked, a bit rough though. you can get ball joint seperators as a fork end on an arm as mentioned or even better as a small device which uses a small fork arm and another arm with a threaded bolt system to apply the force. i got the latter for about $25 and have never looked back, now its 30sec's rather than trying for hours to get them out like previously. supercheap/repco usually stock them. well hope you get it sorted out in the end if its the tie rod problem lol....

hey its been a long time on the forums and it would be great for all the brisbane people to meet up and bring their rides :P so I'm thinking in a few weeks time, mid october? and maybe some votes for the venue? anywhere 30km of brisbane? maybe a cruise out somewhere... lol could be an idea to pm people the final details... :P

hey checked the ke25 swaybar and it seems to be about 17mm or so which is pretty small diameter, now the ke30 swaybar at 18mm? and late ke55 swaybar at 20mm? are both thicker, but can they be fitted or modified to fit to the ke25? or has anyone used another stock swaybar successfully? whiteline have a 20mm one and a 24mm one (overkill) both at about $220ea, but if a later ke model rolla swaybar fits it would save some cash...

i highly doubt it :D unless submitted as an entirely engineered vehicle in which case it still wouldnt get certified without major modifications, if at all. I'm looking forward to seeing it at the drag strip!

had a look on google and can't find much, i think a vacuum gauge is a worthy gauge to have but how would you connect it up to multiple carbs as multiple carbs don't have a single manifold for all cylinders. seems like either 1 gauge for each barrel? or tee all barrels together to feed into the gauge? its going to be an full time addition to the console rather than a service tool used in the engine bay. anyone know?

seems like a lot of people are doing entire strut conversions to get an easy brake / spring / damper / camber upgrade. ke30: i know the corona xt130 are popular and are almost a bolt in fit?, as well as doing the pug hilux brake upgrade on them. ke20: celica ra40 struts and control arms? any others?

lol thats nuts!

thats interesting, i have never heard anyone say it affects the geometry... and so many people use the control arm option. mind explaining further? could be similar to lowering your car, you should use RCA's when lowering so the roll centre is not affected which affects the geometry of the car. although one reason to use the longer control arm is that there is hardly any movement for the top of the strut to come inwards on old ke rollas unless a coil over setup is used. thats them, other sigmas have different control arm bolt patterens as people have found out, the hard way :D i wouldnt mind doing this but i don't need them to be adjustable, not that thats a bad thing! i don't think the design is as strong, but because its illegal on the road is the reason why i have not used it. yeah only a few deg, 1, 1.5, 2 deg at most, just a bit of camber:) yeah these are a fairly new product and they would be cheap to manufacture, basically it moves the control arm outwards using a eccentic bush kit, the lobe is on the bolt, if these are strong design and give 1.5 deg or so it could be an option :D so how far out do you drill the new holes? do they overlap the existing holes? basically if you went for new metal as close to the old holes as possible, then how many degrees would that be? also i think if the holes were slotted on the struts, it would only give a half or 1 degree at most? thats what i thought! but apparently pedders and the rest of them will do it! a lot of people seem to recommend this option as a quick done camber job. and it hardly affects the wheel position, just the angle, maybe thats why it popular? thank you for all the input! :D

talk about a million ways to do one thing! seems like there is multiple methods of getting neg camber, what does everyone think of them: this is in relation to ke corollas: (ke20 to ke55) but generally applies to most cars. strut: camber strut plates camber / caster strut plates drill strut top different struts bend struts control arms: longer control arms from another car use 2 original arms and weld longer rose jointed control arms re drill crossmember eccentric bush kits other: neg camber RCA's pull strut tops in with strut brace (lol...) replace strut and control arm setup from another car that suits i suppose one major issue is if its adjustable or not, personally i am looking at a fixed amount of camber, only 2 to 4 deg if that. and legal too. was leaning towards longer control arms from another car or redrilling the cross member... and another thing is where you want the wheel to sit once its all done.

well i want to lower, stiffen and anti tramp the rear leaves about 30mm or so on the ke25, seems like everyone has a different method, some i come across so far: lowering: lowering blocks (not good) invert eyes invert leaves reset entire pack stiffening: add 1 leaf add multiple leaves add thicker custom leaf use wagon leaves (not true apparently) to stop tramp: add half leaf cut off at front clamp front end add leaf now i want the car to handle and from what i can see that would mean a slightly lower, slightly stiffer rear end without too much tramp. the setup on the car: stage1: front low king springs 30mm, monroe gt gas dampers front and rear, 30mm RCA's, strut brace front, more caster, neutral toe. for the future: stage2 a small amount of neg camber 2 to 4 degrees not sure on camber method yet. maybe a slightly thicker swaybar 150% or so on the front so what does everyone recommend to lower, stiffen and anti tramp the rear springs? come on all you leaf guru's!

some reading material...

check out autospeed's full review and testing of these things, some devices like superchargers were a great design from day one and trying to radically change the design fundamentals will never work, like trying to make an electric powered one. there are different types of superchargers that are all good designs eg: in positive displacement superchargers (roots, screw) in dynamic superchargers (centrifugal) but not electric powered superchargers! small elec motors are capable of great rpm but not much torque. most electric motors i have seen that produce a decent amount of torque have a high ratio gearbox to multiply torque which loses the rpm. Just some fantastic specs on the electric ones: "Serious Power" "Serious BOOST" Up To 20 + BHP Increase, Guaranteed!!!. *("up to"... ie 1 hp is up to 20hp)* increasing pressure up to 2.0 psi. *("up to" ie 0.5 psi is up to 2 psi)* Will this fit a 1999 model 1.5 litre daihatsu charade?? i have a 1990 toyota torago van fuel injected will this adapt hey guys, i have a 97 v6 holden commodore with twin throttle bodys mounted on top of the manifold so my current pod filters stick out of the bonnet. would... Yes, The Generation 1 can be placed between the intercooler and the inlet manifold, this will generate boost in the lower rev range and eleviate mechanical turbo lag *("eleviate?)* Just want to say a big thank you to E.T.S uk as purchased the Generation 2 supercharger a few weeks ago and works like a charm could not believe the performance gain on my Honda civic 1.4i 16v(00) as if u own one u know its pretty laggy at the bottom end, but with this little puppy installed the pick up is superiorly increased… As in the cold I loose all front traction when I put my foot to the floor ( installed via a nos activation switch which activates at full throttle ) bahahahha! anyway some great superchargers out there that are cheaper and are real superchargers, ie sc12, sc14 and probably some commodore ones, i have never really looked into second hand superchargers very much, autospeed has some articles on fitting a second hand supercharger though.

hey you can have suck through and blow through setups apparently, i thought you could only get blow through superchargers which seem to be more common from what i have seen. well on turbo setups if you have the carby blow through setup then it has to be modified to take pressure as well as retuned to suit I'm guessing. else buy a carby that is blow through from factory like a sigma turbo carby or an aftermarket one designed for turbo applications. you can run an intercooler on this design for higher boost levels. if you have it suck through design then a retune is all thats needed afaik, however you wont be able to run an intercooler on this setup, so only a moderate amount of boost is avaliable. and both setups have to run quite rich all the time afaik. this turbo info probably applies to your supercharger setup. from what i have seen people don't tend to run turbos or superchargers through twin sidedraft/ downdraft carbs but rather use a single carby on both suck through and blow through setups. actually a couple of k series motors have been supercharged at low amounts of boost, id get onto those people for advice. plus there are many different types of superchargers for a start! I'm guessing you want to bolt on a 4agze charger with custom brackets, have it non - intercooled, use a decompression plate or lower compression pistons, make custom piping, rebuild and modify a carby to suit and have about 6psi max on non forged internals. a guy at toyota wreckers at sumner park brisbane is also putting a supercharger on his 5k at the moment. i think he may be using a commodore one and is getting the head flowed too.

i have looked at all the types of dampers and it seems gas monotube are very good, better than twintube oil or twintube gas. so my question is what monotube gas inserts will fit the ke25 / ke20? also looking at rear dampers to match. i tried to find dampers from : lower end - gabriel, pedders, monroe, ac delco... higher end - bilstein, KYB, koni... and the only ones that are listed under ke20 / ke25 corolla are the cheaper twintube gas ones. anybody know of a cross matching set from another car that will fit? or specs on the original ke20 / ke25 ones so i can try match some up? might have to measure mine up! did a search and so far came up with 38mm internal.

hey how did you do the custom mounts?

just on the fuse side... if a fuse keeps blowing then there is too much current flowing through the wire, the fuse is blowing just before the rest of the circuit does. too much current is usually caused by a short circuit especially if the fuse blows very fast. if it blows normally then there is still too much current from something in the circuit not providing the correct resistance, ie a faulty component or incorrect wiring.

except the fact that they are fwd engines, including the mr2 model which is a reversed fwd setup. so its quite a bit of modifying.... just converting the engine from fwd to rwd, thats before you even fit the thing in the car. but recently people have been starting to convert 3sgte's to rwd for older celicas and maybe some other cars on toymods.net, there are a few threads on there discussing the modifications needed. 3sgte st185 = approx 180kw 3sgte st205 = approx 205kw 3sgte mr2 = approx 180? kw 250rw kw at the wheels = about 325kw at the fly so thats a fair amount of extra performance gear making that 140kw power gain, probably a few grand at least. the hard truth. for racing id say it would be terrible. front heavy and too much power and torque for the car, you would have to upgrade the entire driveline as well as "cut out your old engine bay and weld a new one in" or borrow redwarfs "12 foot shoe horn". then the engine isnt the greatest either as there are many better options out there and you will have to buy a gasket every month as they are notorious for blowing out headgaskets. as a drag car id say it would work "cut out your old engine bay and weld a new one in", then monster turbo and intercooler and driveline upgrade, 8 / 9 inch diff, better gearbox and some tubs on the back, suspension work and a well programmed management system, then its looking good. its not as easy as "buy it, put it in". no where close actually, especially for a 7mgte in a t18! yeah any engine could pop a headgasket but 7mgtes are famous for it. corolla with 1uzfe on track for under 5000... he must have been transporting a 1uzfe on the back seat to his home after the race. "well if your are going to all the effort of putting a 7mgte in a t18, it would take you and extra hour to mid mount it..." i wouldnt say a 7mgte in a t18 would be a fairly easy, economical, reliable, well handling conversion.

dude they are just standard 2t engine mounts. its the cross member mounts that get moved forwards by cutting them off and rewelding them forwards. then you will realise that the engine will be on a tilt, the passenger side crossmember mount will be lower, so you can shave the cross member driver mount to suit or put a plate under the crossmember passenger mount to lift it up. or put a plate in between the engine mount and the crossmember mount and weld to whichever you like as appropriate. what you are looking for is a modified crossmember. anyway the exact modification instructions link has been given to you already, i may not be correct, its what i remember off the top of my head but at least you get the idea.... go have a look at the instructions...

ah dude, thats the lock knob. there should be a seperate nut underneath that, ie the nut is against the hanbrake and the plastic knob secures against the nut. and also a washer under the nut to stop the nut savaging the handbrake mounting pad. Is it needed?? yes else the cable wont be connceted to your handbrake lever Can i still use the car?? of course but you wont have a handbrake Will the handbrake fail next time i use it?? lol you wont have a handbrake, just a loose lever.

it may not be you at fault for all the noise, but it seems that you may be some part of it from what he can see, so it is reasonable from his point of view, if you think about it... but not completely correct. secondly how can you be annoyed for not getting a notice?! that means he has warned you and not just handed over an infringement notice on the spot! so if you sort it out then you don't get fined!! id be more than happy with that! he has given you a chance, don't make him get all formal with it else he will bring out the db meter and defect everything he can. also car exhausts.... hmmm. you can get as much performance out a reasonably quiet one as an oversize fart tin, its mainly the muffler side of things. exhaust tech : naturally aspirated small capacity stockish engines only need meduim pipe diameters at most, a decent cat converter, and a decent flow muffler. no need for a 3 1/2 inch pipe, gutted inline cat converter and straight through muffler. not saying you have all this but i assume you have some of it to have a loud exhaust. also never gut the cat converter! ps - small engine, huge exhaust = lose bottom end, gain a tiny bit at the top, and as a bonus you will get uncle bens extra long grain rice sprinkled around your car everytime you park. to fix your problem i think you may need a quieter muffler. most exhaust shops have a big range to suit and cheap 2nd hand ones most times. you can't really pack the muffler successfully and have it work properly i don't think, unless you cut it open and can weld etc which isnt really worth it.

hey try american autorubber for a full rubber kit, its about half the price! they may do engine mounts cheaper too, $70 each is a bit expensive but not outrageous. try repco and supercheapauto too.