styler

brake upgrade for the ke25? run!!! take cover!!!

ke corollas are generally small cars with 4 cylinder small capacity motors... but you can get really good performance outof them if you know how and they are light and handle well if set up correctly to compensate. six cylinder is quite long and heavy generally speaking but there are exceptions. leave the L20B to the datsun boys hey :) anything can work to a degree, as in a rb20 could be fitted and run in the car, just might be shite in all other repects like power/money ratio, weight distribution for handling, lack of space and gearbox tunnel modifications. id say like the other guys here go a 4 cylinder, there are plenty avaliable. you just have to find the one that suits you. i mean you get bonus points for originality trying to fit a rb20 to a ke55! but i don't think it would be worth it to be honest. so thats the new p plate laws is it? there is also a whole book of laws in addition to that - qld code of practice for light motor vehicles which has engine conversions, brake upgrades, diff conversions and modifications, seats etc etc. get a copy of the book or talk to an engineer because there are a lot of restrictions. and on a side note the ncop is not in effect for qld for a few years - ie the national code of practice which is supposedly a more lenient and fair legislation covering motor vehicle modifications, it would replace the qld code of practice. output of 200kw! not gonna to get that in a hurry in approved conversion NA form! and you will never get that if its under 1327cc! I'm guessing thats a typo :P 180-200kW with capacity for more power! farking dreaming! realistically anyway :P .... but say you took: 1 gen 4 3sge beams motor with 154kw increase power to 180-200kw convert to rwd and add supra w55 box or similar and hd clutch modify cross member and tunnel to suit upgrade brakes custom tailshaft and shortened g series hilux lsd diff custom radiator, exhaust and a few other things.... cut rust, weld, bodywork, paint, wheels, tyres. interior and gauges, seats etc add a few grand for misc expenses thats probably around the 40 grand mark to get it all done pro or 20 grand diy with a spare few years and lots of patience. and lots of tools. and lots of cursing. and putting 180-200kw to the ground?

its not worth upgrading the rears if you havent done the fronts. and it will affect the braking, any rear disc upgrade is most likely to have bigger discs than the standard front discs! and it will probably cost the same if not more to do a rear disc conversion as it would a front disc upgrade, so id start at the front if you havent already :P

borg warner?

locked = illegal = no insurance. unlocked = new centre = legal = insured

with heavy rust you can fix it properly or fix it cheaply, the bottom of the rear quarters are a common and difficult rust area to fix. also finding a matching section is difficult as they are all very prone to rust there :) but not impossible if you have plenty of time at a few wreckers looking around and get them to cut it out for you far away from where you need. hard to fabricate if you don't have a good idea of what you want and the skills / equipment to do it. then the cutting and welding can be anywhere from jagged edged bird shite arc weld bog tacular slap up to a neat cut tacked mig stiched and ground down proper repair job. depends on what equipment / skills / time / money you have. and whats worth doing for the car is another question you should ask yourself. then you have to paint the repair too.

the head gasket will be sticky, you have to lever it off on an appropriate section with a pry bar or pinch bar etc

you know its the sad truth that they actually are telling the truth :)

heres the best site to explain gearboxes, the first place i learnt about them in detail, car bibles - transmissions

yeah spot on irokin, i have a ke25 master 17.46mm and ke70 calipers. the ke70 boosted master is 20.64, the rear drum cylinders for ke25 and ke70 are both 20.64mm. the ke25 was boosterless from factory and i don't have space for the typical mounted booster. now i can get a 20.64 master which would replicate the whole ke70 brake system, however it will be boosterless so id like to know how well a ke70 boosterless system works, even though the ke25 is a lighter car with a different piviot point on the brake lever arm it will give a good indication regardless. see what i have found is that boosted systems run a larger master so less travel is needed on the pedal which is good but the force required is also much greater hence the booster puts out the extra force required. so I'm just sussing whether a boosted system that has the booster removed is useable or if its too stiff on the pedal in which case i can use a smaller master to put out more force it just needs more travel to operate the brakes properly. the ke25 master puts out a great force being much smaller but may run out of pedal travel before it reaches the full brake travel needed to operate brakes properly. so i thought a road test would get the result i needed

I'm trying to suss out a brake setup for the ke25 and would be grateful if someone could try their ke70 boosterless (ie pull off hose for a min) and drive around on some open deserted road or open carpark braking a couple of times under different speeds - in an open area with no cars or walls of course. if it really is hard pressing on the pedal and the brakes hardly work then I'm probably going to have to get a remote booster which isnt going to be too much fun. however if its only a bit more force on the pedal and the brakes pull up the same then i should be okay.

before you compare the two, have you checked out how much straight cut gearsets cost? plus installation... and the noise is incredible!

i have bought the thailand ones, pretty good - nsk bearing and seems like good moulding.

read the faq to see the mazda spigot was a touch smaller than corollas and can be ground or machined out. it wont affect the wheel strength and specialized wheel shops can do it for you, eg probably race engineering brisbane. most mag wheels have oversize spigot holes and you get the rings to fill the gap so they fit any spigot but some factory wheels and mags have a specific smaller spigot size to suit an exact model of car which makes it a pain as you have found out. also as a note there are many sizes of rings to suit most applications, rings arent too expensive eg $30 for 4 or something. all drum brakes should have the hub locating section sticking out, although one of my diffs doesnt and i suspect thicker drums may have caused this not sure.

wider is much harder than thicker.

apparently doors can be modified to fit by dropping the window frame down.

get new cap, rotor, plugs and points. when installing points make sure the dwell is correct with dwell meter (ie gap) then do your ignition timing after. remember also to gap the spark plugs correctly with feeler gauges or spark plug gap tool then install handtight and 1/3 turn with a tool.

check plugs, points and fuel filter for a start

sorry but i doubt those mini cooper disc setups will be avaliable anytime in the next few years.

yeah if you havent done much with cars or diffs the easiest fix is to undo a matching rear end from the wreckers, it come out whole, with drums and axles and centre all together. - undo leaf mounts, tailshaft, brake cables, wheels, shocks etc (also take any of these if you need them) then undo your old rear end the same way then bolt up the one you picked up at a wreckers earlier and put on all the gear you took off or disconnected. make sure the breather bit is on top when transporting the new diff to avoid an oil spill . then drain the oil of the new one and fill with new diff oil, make sure the filler plug comes out first then drain (else if it doesnt you will drain and can't refill!) you can get special pumps or use a long bit of hose with funnel and friend to refill. it doesnt get easier than that!

go get a whole rear end out of a matching corolla at the wreckers. else rebuild the one you have or pay someone a few hundred to do it.

advantages: self adjusting would be the big one as would as having no play as fluid does not compress (unless air gets in the system) also you can change the bore to give different amounts of force/travel and you can twist and turn to any degree along fluid line can exert a bigger force than a cable can disadvantages can be messy and leak when old more expensive, more parts needs to be bled occasionally needs to be matched master and slave bore setup or close. when people want to use another gearbox, some come with the hydraulic setup and so people have to convert to either a mechanical or hydraulic system and most people go hydraulic it seems.

lol 380kw at the wheels, if thats true you wont need brakes because you'll never get traction to go anywhere :) but honestly if there is 380kw at the wheels in a drag corolla i would invest in a custom big brake kit, some companies actually have a bolt on kit, eg hoppper stoppers etc. these kits suit a certain cars so make sure your struts are original or check which car they are from and get a kit to suit.

could be a jap spec t series seeing it is a banjo front loader, has discs and coil sprung with link setup.

as Sbox says just get the tool, makes it much quicker and less painful