styler

i think 2 piece was meant to have less vibration but I'm definately for the 1 piece.

or a coat of clear paint?

yeah dry ice in pellets is the go, i had some pics up on toymods when i did it. use a few bricks as temporary boxing and a plastic bag or a few bags with pellets inside to do diffrent areas and move quickly. also using bags will cover difficult areas very well :lolcry:

true that, i think i must have had a much lower opening temp thermostat in my old car or it was probably not working properly but as you say if you have a working thermostat which is the right range then you shouldnt have the warming up problem, will amend post :yes:

lol. this thread jsut gets better and better haha

not gonna get a rebuild kit for 180! more like $400 if you lucky

it will cost you more time, money and effort to do that. just pay $300 for 1mm oversize 3tc acl pistons, $100 to flycut and run a 3tc crank for a 2tg hybrid at 1800cc or so rebuild + performance at a cheaper price with less time and effort.

lol stray animals :hmm: why not use t cut and polish or cutting compound and wax though? ill keep the cooking oil for bush mechanics show n shine :y:

as phatke30 said you need the offset, also you need to decide what width tyres you will be running.

its not a good idea for most people to have an on/off switch, which should also run through a relay. in fact there are many elements of the thermofan setup and different combinations.... i had a setup that was in the car when i bought it, the fan ran directly from the battery through a relay, the radiator had an adjustable thermoswitch probe, and a direct on/off switch for the whole circuit. the switch was on most of the time so the fan came on automatically when needed and turned off when not needed. but id be stuck in traffic on a hot day and the engine would get hot and id go to park and the thermo would be on for ages when parked and flatten the battery, so i remebered most times to turn it off when parking but forgot a few times when i was in a rush. then sometimes i would forget to turn it back on as well and the engine would overheat on occassion not good... see what i mean, and thats a half decent setup! after a few push starts and a few batteries later (flats tend kill lead acid type below 3/4 charge) i wasnt happy with it. some people run the thermo straight from the ignition or accessories on the barrel (ie no sensor), most times with a relay. but this means the thermo is on all the time like a normal engine fan, so it will be on before the thermostat opens but that shouldnt be a long time. also a normal fan runs according to rpm which is more flow at higher rpm when the engine is hotter and less when colder. the thermofan can only run full flow when its on. my friends engine seems to run a fair bit under operating temperature with the fan on all the time using this method though. it seems a really a simple easy failproof setup, the only thing is that it would be running a lot of the time when not needed ie engine warming up (thermostat not open) or normal driving/freeway driving or winter and be drawing current and reducing the life of the fan quite a bit as they don't last as many hours as you would expect sometimes. so i suppose thats why they have an adjustable temp switch or thermoswitch in the radiator so: engine warm engine gets hot thermostat opens radiator gets warm normal driving/freeway radiator gets hot on a strap/city driving/hot day thermo comes on full blast and cools it down back to warm thermo turns off until radiator hot again and cools it back to warm again my new setup is going to be: relay for fan thermoswitch (tridon non adjustable type) in radiator whole circuit runs from ignition on barrel proper cooling setup (new radiator/good air supply/coolant flow good/new correct thermostat) some peoples cars don't have enough or proper cooling and they have to pull over and cool down, or park for a while with the fan on. while this may cool the radiator down the coolant isnt flowing very much so its not really cooling the engine much except for the air circulating the engine bay and probably lessens the overall heatsoak to an extent i imagine. this is usually a radiator problem, front air flow problem, thermostat problem (thanks philbey) or a waterflow problem not a thermofan issue but some people try band aid the problem. also i don't know if i like that adjustable thermofan switch, its expensive, a bit fiddly and not the best design. i much prefer the oem style thermoswitches which are simple and last for ages, they need a nut brazed into the radiator or a barrel into the hose but once that is done they are small, cheap and easy to replace. there are many temperature ranges and different hysteresis bands (the difference between on and off). you can also get them from wreckers as a lot of cars had them oem, just make sure the threads are the same and the range is suitable. here check this out: tridon switch catalogue also i recommend using the water temp gauge in the engine not in the radiator as the thermostat takes a while to open and if broken and not opening will read nothing although you engine is overheating, also it more precise in that location. and put the thermofan switch in radiator, not the engine as you don't want the thermofan on when the radiator is cold and the switch is reading off the engine temperature. the engine thermostat will control the engine temperature to the radiator and the thermofan will cool the radiator temperature. thats my theroy so far :dance:

i use a tie rod hinged breaker tool and have seen the wedge type arm ones too but they can be a lot of effort. not sure if you could use tie rod tools on some ball joints, probably not by the looks of it. +1 for the gutter force method i havent thought of that before haha :dance: i have a hydraulic press so id probably be pressing them in and out as i don't have a gutter anywhere close to the shed.

thermo switch options 1. get a thermoswitch setup which is adjustable and uses either probe through the radiator hose into the radiator or thermostat housing or uses a barrel housing that gets put into your radiator hose (cut a section out the hose and clamp barrel in) look at davies craig brand for thermoswitch. look at speco brand for barrel 2. get a on off thermoswitch nut brazed into your radiator and use a thermoswitch to suit your on/off temps look at tridon brand

haha yeah lol its like only once you have flares and a front spolier you can add the rear tail. I'm not sure on it either, I'm not a wing person but i don't mind the ducktail/bobtail/rubberlip type rear spoilers as long as they arent too big. the te27 one is a fair size though but its easier than making another one fit...

you can host it with imageshack: go to http://img1.imageshack.us/ click browse and add your file click checkbox "resize image", choose 640 x 480 or whatever you want click host it scroll down to the bottom of the page copy "direct link to image" go to the forum of your choice go to your post and click edit or create new a post in the post editor go to the top icons and click the insert image icon delete the text in the image link paste your link from imageshack and voila... 320x240 640x480 800x600 its easy once you have done it a few times.

awesome :(

yeah interesting you say that, i know of a few diffs where it can be done. it could work out a lot less for the whole job i reckon, especially if you use a short axle for the modified side and don't have to get one shortened. funny thing also is that a lot of stock axles have a long spline length and can either engage the stock spline section at the same spot or slightly different spots, but it seems aftermarket lsd often engages different areas along the spline, so you have to make a long spline section on both axles for them to be equal length (identical spec overall) and be interchangable. this is a problem when you have only a small section of useable area to respline as i found out. you respline an axle and it ends up suiting the one side but not the other and you have to go and find different axles that with more useable area to have interchangable axles. who would have thought out of all the different measurements the bloody lsd spider gear splines would be different to stock position. fun times haha

those are fairly wide rims with quite a positive offset, I'm guessing they will hit the front struts.

i can get ta22 axle length from mounting face to end of spline if you like, i have an axle in the shed. thats if you want to compare ta22 to ta23? else they are equal length axles as in side to side if thats what your asking.

lowering blocks are bad, get your leaves reset.

narrowest diff with aftermarket lsd option is ta22 celica at 1355mm. next is alfa 104/105? diff at 1360mm with factory lsd and probably aftermarket lsd avaliable. then theres the early hilux rn10, rn20, rn25 with 1370mm and factory and aftermarket lsd avalaible. then theres heaps more and it keeps getting wider and wider..... only a bit wider wont need cutting down. you have 5 options: 1. it will require narrower rims / tyres. this may not be adequate for the power of the car (traction) or grip. 2. use wider rims tyres for more traction and grip. fit them in there by using more positive offset to keep them under the guards inthe rear. theres a problem though, too much positive offset on wider rims will have them hit the front struts and not even bolt up. and the track gets changed if you have a wider diff which can be a problem but some say its not a big issue. so you have to workout what rims at what width and offset will work in the front AND rear with the particular diff - wheel arch/lip, struts, turning lock to lock, inner rear arch clearance etc. 3. use mismatched offsets in reverse, ie run a more positive offset in the rear to get them further in and tucked under the guards and a less positive offset in the front to move them out away from hitting the struts. it would look funny with most rims but with some superlites the offset is from behind the hub not on the wheel band and the outer face stays the same with different offsets so it wouldnt appear any different. this option would keep your track closer to normal. and you can swap wheels from side to side but not front and rear obviously. 4. use matched positive offset rims to suit the rear and run spacers at the front to move them away from the strut. floating spacers are illegal although loads of people use them, i wouldnt. they arent hub concentric as they are generic oversize and rely on the wheel studs for the loading which is incorrect. not only that but its not even a shear force on the studs as it would be with rims without spacers that arent hub concentic but its worse as the spacer moves the rim outwards and applies a higher leverage force as well. this also keeps track closer to normal. 5. use matched postive offset rims to suit front and rear with proper bolt on spacers made to spec with correct hub locating spigot. last time i checkedthese were legal if made properly. this also keeps track closer to normal. you can play around with these options, some arent really a good proper solution in my opinion. or you can get you diff shortened with these options: 1. you can get your diff cut down and axles cut down if its a small amount, around 10mm a side max probably (depends on spline length) 2. get diff cut down a lot and axles resplined, around 10mm min diff and 40mm for axles (check spline and taper for suitability though) note sometimes you can use different axles with same specs except spline and length if the original ones arent suitable for cutting down or resplining.

don't go to big a carby, check out whats suitable. you need good signal strength through the carb for it to work well.

there isnt a stronger diff that fits the ke20 / ke25. nothing fits without minor to major modification. the ke20 / ke25 diff is narrow at 1320mm mounting face to mounting face has leaf sprung suspension has the early jap 110mm pcd uses drum brakes you wont find a stronger diff with the above specs trust me i have tried and the only thing close is equal in strength or possibly slightly stronger if at all. it can't be done. what can be done is modify a diff to suit, if you do this you might as well go the distance and do it properly first time. it costs a lot but its done right and wont break. you can get: stronger housing bigger stronger centre stronger axles bigger bearings possibly lsd more ratios better pcd better drum brakes or disc work out what you want or need from the above list and then go from there, it starts at early t series diffs and ends up at ford 9 inch diffs.

strut swaps are good for an easy brake upgrade and usually allow a wider range of damper inserts but it does change the font end geometry and affects the steering.

black is the hardest colour to paint a car, it makes mountains out of mole hills and grand caynons out of scratches. on the other hand white does the reverse and hides dents and scratches like there werent ever there. painting a car is easy, prepping the body is 90% of the work.

both ke70 and sigma are older jap rwd 114.3x4 pcd