styler

or just go to the local abc super deal mega tyre shop and they will sort you out. $1200 for a chrome bling bling 17 or 18 inch wheel package - rims and tyres to suit your car, done. will look crappy in style and period, will scrub, will have front spacers, wont be hubcentric or have rings most likely, rims will be crap casting, will be heavy, will have cheap multifit pcd, will have cheap shit tyres, will be a bad offset and heavy steering from too much altered scrub radius but hey. heres some advice i came up with for wheels: the 5 stages... 1. it fits. 2. it fit properly and works most of the time. 3. it fits properly and works properly all the time. 4. it fits properly, works properly all the time and works well. 5. it fits properly, works properly all the time, works well and looks good. i think the chromies would get stuck on stage 2 myself :)

ok well say you just had to do it from a technical point of view.... ke70 steel rim is 114.3x4 pcd 13x4.5 +30 offset ?? ke70 csx alloy rim 114.3pcd 13x5.5 +30 offset ?? ke70 have front strut, rear live axle, bit of room in guards front and rear, so you are limited on the: front by: front by strut inwards and lock clearance to inner wall on the front by front guard outwards rear by: inner wall inwards rear wheel arch outwards. go get a tape and a straight edge and start measuring your original wheel, pcd, width and offset. then measure your car (use straight edge on the wheel when needed) for clearance on the front and rear both inner and outer limits and lock on the front. the you know what you have to play with...

chrome 18's with spacers would look out of place on a ke70 but some people like it, such as autosalon queens and bling bling pimps with pink fluffy interiors... as most people here would say for being practical and within the period look, as well as having more sidewall and a decent clearance with everything... go 14 or 15 inch in a good style of rim with the proper fitting specs, you wont regret it :) but hey theres plenty of rims for everyone taste :(

1. choose 2 out of: speed, reliabilty, cost 2. more power from stock = more undriveable (useable powerband) 3. heres my version of a k series engine power list from least to most: 3k std 4k std 5k std 7k std warm na hot na race na supercharged std internals turbo std internals supercharged aftermarket forged internals, efi, ecu, intercooled, boosted etc turbo aftermarket forged internals, efi, ecu, intercooled, boosted etc driveline and gearbox may need upgrading at hot na onwards. might add power estimates later...

edit your topic to ask for help with the problem you have... blown headgasket section from water passage to cylinder or your cylinder walls have corroded through or somones been secretly pouring coolant down your spark plug holes when you have been sleeping, thats all i can think of at the moment...

look at phil bradshaw's page: phil bradshaw T50 info

the brakes are bigger on the panelvan compared to sedan, 228mm compared to 218mm as far as i know? the diff on the panelvan may be an s series last time i looked, plenty of cheap or free s series centres and whole diffs from ae86 drivingclub but the diff probably needs mounts changed over, the centre should bolt straight in.

ratios vary in banjo jap and borg warner. both have removable centres: jap banjo is front loading and is a removable carrier unit with centre, borg is a rear loading bolt in centre and plate cover. borg warner is supposedly slightly stronger in the centre and axles may be a bit thicker? but they are both on the weaker end of toyota diffs.

we should work out the chopped springs stiffness with some formulas, would be interesting... ill see if i can find some on the net.

indeed so :) i'll eleborate, if you cut stock springs they will be slightly stiffer but still too soft for the reduction in travel from missing coils. the stock coils add much needed height, not stiffness is what i was trying to say. i reckon the reduction in height is not compensated by the increase of stiffness... yeah if you imagine a coil as a long bar with one end stuck in a wall: make the bar shorter and it will be harder to bend from less leverage and harder to twist as there is more twist per distance of material make it longer and it will be easier to bend from added leverage and easier to twist from less twist per distance of material. thats the way i see it, theres formulas to work out spring rates, could be interesting... i still think the reduction in height is not compensated by the stiffness gained from cutting coils and by the time the spring is stiff enough from removing coils it would not be captive or effective in travel. like take some stock springs at 330mm cut to 300mm and compare to some low king springs at 300mm and 30% stiffer. kings springs: - 30mm drop which is 10%. - 30% stiffer stock springs at 330mm and cut 30mm off: - 30mm drop which is 10% - 10% stiffer is my guess? thats what I'm saying :bash:

yeah those snowflake rims are 14x5.5 and 114.3x4 pcd redwarf? any idea on offset? i think snowflakes come on coronas, taragos, import ae86's and maybe a few other cars?

yeah been meaning to find it out a te27 diff width, its a lot wider but the wheels are very positive offset and narrow from factory, they just get under the body, apparently the body is flared outwards from factory and a flare fitted over it, same with the fronts. you could work it out, te27 rear track at is very wide at 1295mm compared to the front at 1270mm and wheel offset is about +30p. so diff width (wheel mounting face to wheel mounting face) = track + ( offset x 2 ) = 1295 + 30 + 30 = 1355mm. so same width as a ta22 if not the same diff :) well apparently its a corona diff though but could be modified. but you can't fit wider tyres or lower offset rims unless you modify the wheel arches - rework the rear wheel arch (difficult) and cut out the fronts (easy). not to say people don't do it, just google image te27 and look at some of those wheels! but the suspension must be rock hard as travel could only be an inch on some of those cars, i wouldnt recommend it personally but some people do hack up the arches or just have no suspension travel which isnt as good for handling or comfort. te27 articles

yeah thats right, ke20/25 wheels are 12x4 and +30p and tyres are 155/70?/12 ke20/25 = 1320mm wheel mounting face to wheel mounting face ta22 = 1355mm wheel mounting face to wheel mounting face ke30/55 = 1355mm wheel mounting face to wheel mounting face the top of the ke25 rear arch to the top of the other rear arch on the other side is approx 1500mm, including the thickness of the lip and a few mm clearance you will need, so your combination has to fit inside that. 185's on a 5.5 or 6 inch rim at +30p with a ta22 diff would work and the wheels should clear the front struts as well. width of combination in mm = width of diff wheel mounting face to wheel mounting face + width of tyre / 2 * 2 tyres (ends up being width of 1 tyre) - offset * 2 (applies to positive offset) so eg a ta22 diff with 14x6 +30p and 185's = 1355mm + 185 - (30x2) = 1480mm ke20/25 = 1500mm avaliable - 1480mm combination = 20mm total clearance = 10mm a side ( 20mm / 2 sides) so if you fold the lip up and it takes up 5 mm and then you will have 5mm clearance for when the diff goes straight up into the body with both wheels eg like a speed bump. replace rear bushes also to add stiffness and stop excess play.

you know theres a whole lot of ready made spigot rings or hub locating rings ads some people call them, in many different id/od sizes. id see if there are some avaliable to suit first, they come out in metal and hard plastic. hard plastic doesnt seize on there and metal ones are stronger and don't crack so take your pick. they are generally a press fit into the rim but not a tight one (a push fit i suppose) and are a slide fit over the spigot. best to take the wheel and axle in if you can't drive in for a really good fit. maybe use an antiseize to help to remove the wheel if its tight fit. performancewheels.com.au have a large range of plastic spigot rings and a database to match up your spigot size. i havent sussed it out much but ebay or a big tyre shop may be able to help you if they are a one of the more popular generic oversize hub holes as a lot of aftermarket wheels are, else if they are an odd oversize its going to be a custom set at about $200 i would say. i would get them to make the rings to suit, some places machine the od in the wheel to suit an off the shelf ring and then if if has the correct id its ok or they then machine the id as well to suit, gets expensive compared to a spigot ring that suits in the first place!

redwarfs on the money, also toe out will make the car turn harder into corners as opposed to toe in which promotes straight line steering. but its the balanced combination of these factors including suspension which allow road holding and handling. theres some great books on suspension design and theories, great if you have an adjustable setup. a pyrometer is handy too for different track circuits to measure tyre temp across the width of the tread. check out camber, caster, toe as the basics then kingpin inclination and kingpin offset, also known as SAI - steering axis inclination and scrub radius respectively then roll centres then suspension, like rates and travel etc then theres plenty more after that...

konig rewinds only have low offsets and wider widths as far as i have seen, check if they are suitable before you buy a set.

its worth whatever someone is willing to pay for it isnt it? look at redbook.com.au for market value id say at a guess $500 - $1500.

gotta agree there, ke10 = 1320mm? ke20/25 = 1320mm ke30/55 = 1355mm ke70 = 1410mm? r31 = 1460mm ke corolla wheels are quite a positive offset to begin with, around +30p, they are close to the front struts in most cases already. so with the same wheels all round you are limited unless you want very positive rear rims compared to the fronts could look a bit odd thats all. ke70 might be alright as its +30mm per side, other ke corollas are too narrow. the stock wheels may clear but any wider rims/tyres would need a more positive offset to suit. minispools / full spools are illegal as it locks the wheels but are great for track work and a lot cheaper than lsd. that cone type lsd is popular, cheap and works but not very well or for very long however its a cheap option. better aftermarket lsds are avaliable as mentioned.

call up and find out, yellowpages.com.au.

prob about $200 plus $100 labour or something. call an exhaust shop and find out. there are 2 common types: 4-2-1 = midrange 4-1 = top end just make sure you get quality extractors, don't worry about stainless too much. plus you might as well get a new exhaust system while you at it, no point in extractors in a restricted stock system. mild steel press bent in 2 1/4 would be ideal but 2 inch or 2 1/2 are options, then a new cat, muffler and maybe a resonator if needed at a cost of about $300 parts and labour at a guess. extractors will give a little power increase but more of a better power delivery throughout the rev range, helps the engine breathe more with a matching exhaust system and probably better still with a matching induction system if you want to go that far. no real downsides unless you oversize the exhaust and it pisses and farts everywhere and loses all bottom end power but hey thats half of ipswich anyway :laff:

don't cut stock springs, they are too soft and need the extra coils so they don't bottom out. its illegal because its dangerous and doesnt work. also no insurance cover if you have an accident. aftermarket springs are shorter but stiffer to compensate so you don't bottom out. they work well and are legal. also insurance approved as long as you tell them. also a part of changing to stiffer springs is upgrading the damper rate to suit the stiffer spring, and the damper stroke to suit the lowered height of the spring.

100kw atw = approx 125kw at the fly, do a search on here as there are plenty of 4ag swaps and builds, k motor swaps and builds and k series turbo setups into ke corollas. as they say speed, reliablity, cost. pick any 2.

escort = 108x4pcd ke70 = 114.3x4pcd haha too true :D a lot of people think ill get some longer lca's and the neg camber will tilt the wheel under the guard only to find after all the work of fitting them that the top sticks out more?????!!!! its amusing to see the cry of disbelief and the mad scuffle to find an old geometry set to prove the wheel is somehow wrong, that some black magic crept in to the garage and secretly destroyed the hope of ever being a legal takumi drifter with 165's on a 9 inch rim and 10 deg neg camber, all under the guard of course :)

ebay, ebay.com.au, yahoo japan, jap importers all have used ae86 zenki and kouki lsds for about $300, most need a rebuild kit at $200 and labour at $300. for about $1200 you can get a new better stronger lsd aftermarket as mentioned from ebay, ebay.com.au, yahoo japan, jap performance shops, ae86 forum sponsors.

check out: lsds - club 4ag t series lsd - club4ag