styler

just braze/solder/weld the old bit back on?

generally an answer would be something along the lines of probably a few grand for a factory optioned motor or similar... or 5 to 10 grand for an full engine conversion... this will just give you a more powerful car overall than what you have, so rolling straight line speed / acceleration will be good but for a overall fast car you will need more power, lower weight, suspension set up, handling, brakes and traction amongst other things like driver skill, cornering techniques, diff ratios and useable power curves :)

bellhousing and shifter extension housing are different if that helps.

t series would be ideal - lsd avaliable, alfa not bad but could be expensive / obscure - lsd factory, s series not worth it, not strong, rare trd lsd. e series very strong, no lsd?, f series same or even stronger than e series - lsd avaliable as far as i know?

compare old wheel (tyre+rim) to new wheel (tyre+rim) rims don't hit anything (unless stupidly stretched), tyres hit first, so choose a tyre to go with your rim first... then consider: 1. overall diameter 2. backspace 3. guard clearance 4. steering clearance 5. steering geometry feel there are programs on the net that tell you exactly what your old and new wheel differences are and how it affects everything, might see if i can find them...

depends on tyre width and overall rolling diameter...

depends what kind of suspension you want, as there are different setups for road, track, drift etc...

look up twincharged setups, factory eg nissan march, aftermarket one and custom ones... should give you a fair idea, it can be a complex setup at times :) toymods.net had a few threads on twincharged tech

i got my old ke25 shell sandblasted by an experienced car guy who did it carefully, turned out with some pros and cons in the end. he used a medium garnit to do it and i asked him to take out the bog as well and if he could and go easy on the outside panels. cost was $450 and took a few hours to do all over as a rolling shell, inside, outside engine bay, underneath, boot, wheel wells etc... pros: completely strips all that old crappy paint, muck off etc strips the complex curves and angles that would takes months by hand. leaves a shiny clean rust free surface to etch prime. gets into hard to reach places. very cheap vs hand sanding not messy like paint stripper doesnt remove boxed section protective coating like acid dipping. shows up all previous damage and removes bog to bare metal again if requested. cons: does leave a finely dimpled surface but primer will cover it after a sanded coat or 2. can easily warp or ripple thin large sections, ie rear quarters and roof. sand gets into box sections and recesses. removes factory rust protection process. I'm all for it, just do the outside panels, doors, roof, guards etc... all big thin panels by paintstripper or sanding or soda blast?? and engine bay, underneath, boot etc by sandblasting. this will protect you against warped panels and the ke25's have thin panels i have been told. its really a big problem if it warps the panels obviously and you wouldnt even attempt to repair it as its way too costly if even possible. also tape or plug holes you don't want sand to enter into, saves a lot of time with the air gun and vac cleaner after which also takes a few hours to do.

it has to be done with precision and accuracy, not an easy drill press job in my opinion... how are you going to do the splines as i remember they might have female ones in the hub flange else its a tight press fit which also has to be drilled to the exact OD needed. just modify a later axle or use a later diff as said would be the best option... else get a shop to do it for you

look up spring works or industrial spring listings

why not just buy 4L of car oil for a few more dollars and use that? motorbike oils are the same i believe but with gearbox crush additives and maybe wet clutch additives? ie - don't use car oil in a wet clutch (common) motorbike... but as for using motorbike oil in cars thats a new one!

nothing, its just the purpose its used for... lift pump for lifting fuel fuel pump for supplying the engine but... A) there are 2 types of pumps generally: 1.high pressure / low volume (suitable for efi engine supply) 2.low pressure / high volume (suitable for carb engine supply or lift pump for efi / carb) B) there is also the lift and non lift features of pumps: 1. non lift (normal) fuel is fed to it under gravity, ie fuel naturally flows into it. 2. lift pump can draw fuel from below without being fed under gravity, ie can lift fuel up - rated in centimeteres of lift. C) there is also the priming features of pumps: 1. non priming wont suck in fuel to start pumping, can blow up without fuel. used on gravity fed as the feed naturally primes it. 2. self priming will suck in fuel to start pumping, wont blow up. used on gravity fed or lift as it can draw fuel up to prime. so just make sure you have whatever combination you need of: A) pressure/flow B) lift/non lift C) priming/non priming for your supply pump. for your lift pump if used. and it will all work :hmm:

get whatever gives you the same backspace, a few mm more or less should be okay. +25mm is max track increase. watch scrub radius and steering.

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if its a road car, it would be wise to check ncop if it applies in your state... spacers tyre width tyre/rim chart track lowering suspension travel

check user manual for specs, i might have a look later for it.

hey kangaroosa, i take it you must have longer lower control arms that is causing the extra track? not sure if cutting and shutting a control arm shorter with extra reinforcement would pass? or use a shorter control arm? or camber pins? or offset bushes? or redrill hole mounts? but yeah ford fiesta factory roll around chaser rims are 15x6, not sure on offset tho... saab 15x6 chasers are +33p and +40p i think for early and late ones? did you ask about using #e2# series variants of the car as its the same car series, as te27/sr5 has much wider track than ke20...

unregistered burnout car is all you will get out of it, a couple of grand for a pig build is where it starts at...

no diffs just "bolt in", especially bigger stronger ones.... your diff is 1355mm wheel mounting face to wheel mounting face, so go from there. at minimuim its going to be cut old mounts off weld them onto new diff, at most mounts, shorten housing, respline axles etc...

you can change pinion plates to suit or driveshafts as far as i know... no way a hiace or hilux head would fit, ever... I'm sure someone can answer you gearbox question, I'm not too sure on k series boxes...

go to google images and type in te27 for rims and flare combinations

yeah 7 or 8 inch wide rims definitely a better idea if dish is your thing :wink: also just so you know with rims its measured from the tyre bead area, ie from inner bead lip to inner bead lip. and the actual rim width is usually 1 inch wider due to the bead being about 1/2 inch thick on either side for alloy rims, ie the measurement from outer bead lip to outer bead lip. so a 8 inch rim actually measures 9 inch in material from on side to the other. so the point is just make sure tyres and rim have enough backspace to clear the insides of the car, about 100mm will leave about 10mm wheel to strut which is about factory. measure rims with a tape from outer bead to outer bead or add 25mm (approx 1 inch) to advertised width. measure tyres at their widest point which may be sidewalls or the top or use advertised width. use metric when measuring (metric mm = inch x 25.4mm) if the rim is on the tyre put a straightedge across the tyre on the hub side of the wheel and measure from the bottom of the straightedge to the rim mounting face (still on hub side of wheel). if the rims are wider than the tyres then check the rim backspace (unusual/stretched) if the tyres are wider than the rims then check tyre backspace (usual) (obviously the widest one will hit first generally speaking so yeah...) now there are some complications, if you go a bigger rolling diameter on the tyre it makes it taller and can hit the bottom strut spring perch. also tyres tend to curve, ie they arent square edged from side to the top which can give a bit of clearance to the bottom strut spring perch. and tyres look at a tyre sizing chart for range of widths / profiles that suit. and i think thats all i have for now....

doing this is not a good idea for many reasons: it will look silly without some sort of widebody fabrication it needs massive flares you will have to fabricate rear wheel well will most likely rub pending offset not legal due to track increase rare and expensive tyres (if correct fitament) stupid, illegal, if not impossible with stretched 195's super heavy steering offset on rim outer lip to outer lip would be like -40 on a 10 inch rim with 100mm backspace but hey you will beat 5k power on downhills when you aqua plane :wink: and you might propel those massive wheels forwards if you are lucky with the wind behind you! if it was a proper race car like ke25 racers build it would be great for the track, but thats quite a car check it out... Ke20 Race Car for sale 4age 20v silvertop 200HP+ Ke20 Race car, Eligable for Sport Sedan (under 2lt) or SuperTT (AMRC) Fresh 4age 20v Silvertop Yager Performance Engine, Motec M4 ECU, custom exhaust and inlet. - Spare 20v engine - Rebuilt alternator and starter -Rebuilt W58, plus another spare w58 box. -T series JDM disc brake diff with Overhauled Calipers and new discs and race pads(80% left) -4.11 and 3.9 locked diff centres and spare axles and spare diff housing -Overhauled Mazda RX7 alloy 4 spot front calipers with New Levin Discs and Ferodo pads (80%) -Coilover front struts -4 of 13x10 alloy 3 piece rims with New Dunlop Slick Tyres -8 of 13x8 Superlite rims with Near New Slicks and Wet Tyres Fitted -Spare Slick tyres not mounted -Sparco Touring (V8 supercar) seat - 5 point Harness (valid till 2011) - Alloy Cage (Cams Log Booked) - Super Lite Shell with Fibreglass Bumpers, bootlid, bonnet and front splitter (all with moulds) - Longacre Race Rearview mirror - XT Racing Lap Timer and Transmitor plus PC software - Fuel Cell with new foam, New Holley blue Fuel pump, Bosch Motorsport Pressure Pump - Front and rear adjustable Sway Bars - Koni adjustable Shocks front and rear - Perspex windows all round with lexan front screen - Cams and ASSA log books - Autometer Gauges - Alloy Rear Wing - Huge Gaurd Flares - Plenty more to list -Comprehensive Spares Package Car Just Competed at Wakefield Park in Round 1 of SuperTT (29 Feb- 2 March), Front Running car! Coverage of the event will be on Fox Sports over the next few weeks. I'm not saying don't do it, id be amused if you did... only i think you would regret it afterwards.

i doubt rollas would be competitive running k series motors vs gemini motors... so yeah 4ag or 2tg would be closer? what criteria are the the geminis raced on? id say with 4ag and t50 it would rival the geminis pending criteria? but say if it were just corollas.... what about different classes? like factory 4ag powered open modified class or k series twincam 1600 ( 4ag / 2tg ) other (sr20/ca18/12a/13b) and forced induction puts you up a class? best idea overall is k series though if it were just rollas but they arent streetable if built for racing which means its going to be a dedicated race car not a street car and some people may not want to have an entirely separate race car? but yeah i suppose its either k series or a few different classes? certain classes would be competitive against geminis though!