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styler

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Everything posted by styler

  1. sounds like he's taking you for a a ride... unless its a special key ie blank shape cost or integrated immobiliser it shouldnt be that much, all they need is a copy of the key or the code for the cut which they feed into the machine.
  2. actually LittleRedSpirit i think your right!
  3. yeah the turbines i have seen are the deeper dish version of the wheel style with way less spokes which are also thicker... but seems in america they do call them turbines: google image search so i suppose turbines probably does cover that style of curved spoke in wheels...
  4. these are my old ones, actually had fireball imprinted on them somewhere i think
  5. actually irokin that rings a bell - roh fireballs i think?
  6. yeah had a set of these, datsun 180b sss alloys if I'm not mistaken... old school, strong but not a sought after style, in normal aged condition probably worth about $200.
  7. hmm you might find it on engine weight list somewhere, i know iv seen one on the net as well as a wheel weight list... else if you have no luck at all a large amount of humble begging may see me drag out my complete 3tc and attempt to weigh it...
  8. good stuff!
  9. wow original for a rolla! i have seen some other small cars with bike engines eg mini, nice power and rpm but major headache to get the thing in and running well... it quite an expensive exercise from what iv heard!
  10. tighecams.com.au
  11. you are better off with a high pressure sprayer its quicker and more effective with way less water, garden hose would drown everything by the time you got some dirt off with the huge volume of water it uses... just cover essential electrical items and avoid spraying them as mentioned :lolcry:
  12. yeah the taper can be well stuck sometimes! with hammer, bashing, pickle fork etc you arent pressing the two apart, more like prying / separating one off the other in mid air, you can brace the other half eg on the floor, brick etc but it would most likely damage the components. it can be really really stuck and the above may never work! enter the puller / breaker tools where the tool actually forces them apart, one directly off the other no bracing required, and most time you get access to belt it with a hammer to shock it which sorts it out one time :lolcry: will get some pics for ya, supercheap and tradetools carry them at around $25 check this - shows all the front end breaker tools: front end breaker tools
  13. some years ago i did use a ryco or similar without anti drain back valve as i found out as it took ages for the oil light to come on, so i think ill stick with genuine :lolcry: seems in that article they all have bypass and drain back valves but even so if they are a crap design or poor materials / construction then its not going to help in the long run...
  14. generally original oem oil filters have anti drain back valves as far as i know which are better for startup and oil pressure, they cost hardly any more than aftermarket in the toyotas...
  15. the only way to get an underpowered registered street car to drift on a limited budget is to take it to a wet track day or wet skid pan day, swap in a cheap welded diff centre for the day and every aspect is there - it actually drifts, it doesnt cost much, its not dodgy and its street registered.
  16. easy - mountings, gearbox, tailshaft, shifter... hard - 2tg engine, 2tg rebuild, 2tg parts, exhaust, fuel supply, conversion to hydraulic pedal box, possible diff upgrade, twin carbs rebuild or weber dcoe, spinning wheels - lsd / diff upgrade...
  17. strut swaps are the best for big brakes but the worst for fit and steering geometry, sometimes you get lucky with lower control arms, balljoints and steering arms that interface together properly from different cars but you can still have geometry issues. loads of people are happy to sacrifice the smaller issues for the gain of bigger brakes, bigger better dampers and springs but you can also uprate your standard strut to suit as well at a cost.
  18. fair enough, wouldnt it be easier to just put nos on a commodore with factory v6 motor and skid that rather than going to effort of doing a conversion into a rolla, then you can register the commodore and drive it to the burnout pad? its just the effort of putting it into a rolla is so great ( time, money, effort ) that you could do so much better with the resources, but hey whatever floats your boat...
  19. search "te27" on google images - that should help you out!
  20. 4 inch lowering blocks! gotta be the best thing since cut springs!
  21. don't lower it 4 inches, you wont have enough suspension travel and you are very unlikely to find shocks to suit that range. when you hit some bumps in the street the back end of the car will jump and kick out to oversteer, ie power pole territory.. and legally for NCOP its got to clear 100mm fully laden and you are not allowed to reduce suspension travel by more than a third of the original travel. if you are worried about the gap in the guards or filling the guards as some may call it, lowering the car is only half of it - bigger wheels also fill this gap but also raise ride height equally as much which can be useful for clearing the 100mm ride height regulation.
  22. hey your original offset is +27 or +32 i believe? for older rwd toyota corollas, you call a tyre shop and ask them nicely to look it up for you :locked: what you want to do is get the same backspacing or close to as your original rim/tyre combo to avoid scrubbing on the inside and then... widen to the outer side wheel arch which once the lip rolled still clears... or cut out the lip and flare it :n: thats my method and although it upsets scrub radius aka king pin offset, its not by much for the smaller increases. get your original rim/tyre combo and measure the backspace off that and then get another wider rim/tyre combo with the same backspacing but with the resulting different offset/width to suit. can write up how to measure tyre/rim specs with 2 cheap rulers if you like, and then its up to your to see how far you can go to the outer rolled or cut and flared lip if you go that way. note: with same tyre OD rolling diameter you can have slightly less backspacing on the new setup, you might need to adjust your turning stops and unfortunately theres not much to be adjusted and its not desirable anyway as it reduces distance to strut tube body, to lower strut perch, to inside wheel wells and reduces your turning circle but there is a bit to sacrifice if need be. note: else with bigger OD rolling diameter you sacrifice the few mm automatically from bigger OD, you might have to adjust the turning stops with a reduction of distance to lower strut perch, to inside wheel wells and reduced turning circle all resulting automatically. definately on the right track with rims that fit properly without spacers (both hubcentric type spacers or floating type spacers) are not desirable vs proper fitting rims. also track is 25mm increase max for NCOP if it applies to your state which is 25mm/2 rims = 12.5mm a side track increase = original offset subtract 12.5mm = max allowable new offset, ie the lowest numerical offset figure you can go.
  23. tyres are usually wider than rim for proper fit so they will hit/scrub first, i don't recommend tyre stretch for many reasons but depending on the tyre width and profile they will hit long before the rim does. also you might hit the lower strut perch before the strut body / wheel well. remember even moderate 195 tyres are 7.677 inches wide...
  24. its a good idea to convert to bosch to get the easily replaced reg/bush pack that mounts directly into the alternator externally, just check you can still get the packs locally.
  25. go buy a cheap car spray painting book gregory or haynes or something, will pay for itself very quickly.
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