styler

Just brace it around the cut and you will be fine.

It won't help looking for wishbones! What are you trying to do exactly?

Some people have heated up the shifter until the rubber gives up and pulled the two apart, then cleaned up and filled with sikaflex on re-assembly. The thread is the common M8x1.25 thread so just get a std 4.6 strength bolt and weld it on, save the shifters! I will buy the ta22 ones off you if you haven't done any surgery on them yet!

The one difference is that the toyotas were underpowered and were limited on power output, mazdas had the famed rotary motor and were an easy engine swap, cheap to increase power and could retrofit a later factory turbo engine. Mazdas were much quicker, hence had more development, parts and interest and so were more sought after and so the value was higher. The rotary motor is very efficient in regards to being light and compact but producing huge power, so you can fit it into a small lightweight chassis, certainly not efficient in rebuilds or fuel consumption and also lacks low down torque so corner exit speeds can be average for circuit, but drag racing is very popular with high hp setups. Why would you want the value of the humble corolla to increase, its better for you if its cheaper to play with!

If its a T40 ie T series 4 speed, maybe $100 but most people would go a 5 speed. The T series Gearboxes were very common but as they get older get difficult to source. Theres an option to fit a 5th gear but that upgrade kit was only avaliable in the 70's! Shipping here for 30kg would be about $500.

What does a worked pinto with cosworth head put out? Guessing 200 - 300hp? Worked 2L pinto can do up to 200hp last I looked which is pretty good. 2TG you can get new aftermarket 3tc internals to bore and stroke out, but its the other stuff that's expensive - thats motor building for you. 200hp limit on 2tg. Pinto in a ke25 would be weird to say the least... google images - TE27 :)

Not sure on what you are asking but I don't see why it wouldnt? May possibly need an inlet manifold adapter plate but maybe not.

So you want to know why your engine runs fine? Static compression ratios are calculated as if the valves are never open during the engine compression stroke, so in theory only and are used to match camshafts to compression easily when building an engine. Dynamic compression is what the real compression actually is with valves opening and closing during engine cycles and also considering overlap when both valves are open at once and the exhaust scavenges the intake charge. The longer the valves are open and the more overlap the more compression is lost. Generally most older 4 stroke petrol engines would run around 8:1 compression on 90RON and not ping during operation. So for a rough example: Camshaft:---Static:---Dynamic: 260 deg-------8:1---------8:1 270 deg-------9:1---------8:1 280 deg-------10:1--------8:1 290 deg-------11:1--------8:1 300 deg-------12:1--------8:1

Sometimes people say you lose torque from lightening a flywheel but you don't, the engine still makes the same torque but it reduces the ability to store it. Also has been said it make engine more powerful but not so, it reduces the load the engine has to drive hence the performance effect. A standard flywheel is used to smooth out power delivery and store torque to make a more drivable car but at the cost of performance. Lightening a flywheel is most effective from 1st gear and reduces up to the highest gear, probably one of the best upgrades for the cost, just remember hillstarts may need a bit more effort and cruising suffers a bit.

Rebuild the motor with a bit of performance would be the easiest and best bang for your buck, Rebuild, carb, cam, exhaust, flywheel, ignition, 5spd, clutch, shocks, springs, bushes, pads, tyres. Thats what I would do as a balanced setup as it doesnt need diff, lsd, engine mounts, aftermarket ecu etc Probably a few grand all up and you would have a nice setup. Not fast but responsive, reliable and sporty. Great to drive everyday but has some get up and go when you put your foot down.

Chromoly is the only way to go for a very light flywheel ie under half the weight but as has been said its where its gets removed that counts most which is the outside which has more material as well so it all works out but be aware all cast - if stock, lightened or badly lightened are more prone to fly apart if used under racing conditions, a scatter shield around the bellhousing would be a good idea.

I think theres long and short versions of the t series dizzy in both bosch and nippondenso style....? Also something about deleting vac advance, it will clear the manifold to allow for ignition base adjustment

^^^ Awesome writeup!

I would delete vac advance all together, add elec pickup if not one already and recurve the dizzy. The trick is to know what to recurve it to that is flexible... You should be around 10/12/14 base and 30/32/34 total which is 20 deg mechanical advance from weights and gives you a range to tune with (For 3tc hemi head). Another factor of recurving is what Rpm is it "All in" which is the Rpm that max advance is achieved at, 4000 rpm is a base to consider (For 3tc hemi head) When sending the dizzy to the specialist all you say is delete the vac stuff, 20 Deg mechanical advance from 1000rpm all in by 4000rpm. (don't bother trying to recurve it yourself, while possible, its such an absolute pain.)

Oil coolers are for racing conditions where the oil will overheat, unlikely on a street car in fact it would probably stop the oil reaching operating temp as explained above... If it leaks or ruptures it's not going to be good either but hey it is a popular Bosozoku Style thing so it does get done a bit on street cars.

Best thing is to change it often, Yeah Motul 5.1 or RBF600 have good temps, aren't too expensive and also available locally that I have found so far. Whatever you do don't use DOT 5 silicone stuff (DOT 5.1 is std gylcol base.)

Honestly dude thats got to be the most backwards idea I think I have ever heard, I mean if it's to be different and for the amusement of it all then by all means its certainly is, but honestly it's a lot of time/money/effort for a for a few laughs. Why not an old cressida? Which is very similar to what you are doing, except it's all done already from factory and you can spend your time installing off the shelf parts to car that will actually improve a much better car into something even better? Heres some info anyway... http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conversions/65909-sv21-camry-engine-conversion-possibilitys.html http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?67220633-SR20-4G63-3SGE-into-Sv21-camry

The pump has an inbuilt bypass when pressure gets too high, can get jammed if pump is old.

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Depends on PCD / Rim width / Offset / Tyre Width / Tyre Profile Try test fit, full lock and corner loading to check scrub.

Yeah Rod/Stroke ratio seems to be more relevant in older motors, some of the more recent honda high revving motors actually run a very average Rod/Stroke ratio which was suprising... http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/0506_ht_rod_stroke_ratio/viewall.html

Location? Try Sleeka Spares - Google

Hi Terry, Tech above is pretty much correct. Will speak to you tommorrow

You mad dog, what an epic engine conversion! Hope it all works out :)

Option1 do it for offroad use, in the end it is up to you what you use it for.