styler

could try toymods.org.au

post up some pics, average repair on one simple section could be a few hundred cut, fabricated, welded in, ground, filled, sanded and primered up... so a few simple sections could add up... honestly you might be better off buying a car in better condition :P

well almost, the offset is actually the distance from the centreline of the rim to the rim mounting face, if it is: 0 offset - the rim mounting face is in line with the centreline of the rim positive offset - the rim mounting face is from the centreline of the rim to the outside of the rim negative offset - the rim mounting face is from the centreline of the rim to the inside of the rim rim mounting face also known as hub mounting face as the two mate up... outside of rim being the side that faces the street inside of rim being the side that faces the inner wheel arch

something else to note is that hitting the tyre absorbs most of the energy you are trying to use to get the wheel off, although I have not tried this myself, I probably would if I found myself in the same situation... maybe a bit of softwood, eg pine stud stud about a foot long and make contact inside the rim, not on the bead section to tap it off. tie wire a long section of stud across the wheel through the spokes and work it back and forth with a mate to lever it off. although i wont suggest it from an dangerous / insurance point of view, driving around in a secluded area with the wheel nuts only nipped up and not tightened does provide the mechanical advantage needed to work the rim loose to some degree. hmmm... I'm going to go with the jack it up SECURELY with wheel nuts a few turns loose and kick it off theroy, sounds the best of the lot

sandblast = garnit, which looks like and feels like sand, works well for most stuff, cheaper, but not for delicate work, for thicker, stronger, more reinforced, or less cosmetic sections, ie inside or engine bay... sodablast = baking soda, for more delicate stuff, for thinner, unsupported, flat, cosmetic sections, ie outer panels etc, bit more expensive. i have a home unit, with garnet, its not bad for small stuff but would take ages for a whole car... the pro units would take about 4 to 6 hrs to do a whole car if you stripped it to suit, garnit = $600 sodablast = $800 at a guess WARNING: SPEND A FEW HOURS GAFFA TAPING / COVERING WITH CLOTH / PLUGGING ALL THE SECTIONS YOU DON'T WANT THE MEDIUM TO STRIP OR GET INTO OR GET BLOWN INTO BY THE AIRGUN AFTERWARDS. YOU WONT GET THE MEDUIM OUT AFTERWARDS AND YOU CAN'T GET IN TO THE AREA TO RECOAT IT FOR PROTECTION. also get them to ETCH PRIME it in a good brand of primer, don't know if you would want to wipe it down with prepsol ie wax / grease remover first but its an option i guess..

1) mx62 lower control arms are a fair bit longer and line up at all the correct places, balljoint interface may need some solution though... 2) cut and shut, and reinforce two ke20 lower control arms for a longer one, if its just for offroad, reason being its illegal onroad to do so. 3) make adjustable rosejoint lower control arms and dial them out to camber desired, also offroad only. 4) redrill crossmember mounts for lower control arms, not sure on legalities 5) use offset negative camber roll centre adjusters 6) bend strut stub axle ( i don't seem to like this but its an option, about 1/2 to 1 deg max possible) 7) camber plates, but as you said with std diameter springs theres hardly any room in the tower to move inwards, unless converted to coilovers which is pricey.

as been said its worth whatever someone will pay for it, that being said a couple of hundred to a couple of thousand would be the going rate... seriously best idea is to go through the cars that are for sale or have been sold recently to get a perspective on prices... id need pics of the car you are interested in but hey id say $3000 off the top of my head if its as described...

toyota crown?

although your gearbox is fwd this will generally is of use to you... with buying a 2nd hand rwd gearbox: 1) make sure its the right gearbox - gearbox / bellhousing / shifter extension / ratios / input and output shafts / 4 or 5 speed 2) check external condition cracks / dings / bolts / seals / oil leak marks / sealant if rebuilt or repaired 3) check internal condition pour some oil out, see if it has some at least and if dirty / water trapped inside / metal filings or chunks 4) check gears engage and rotate input shaft in each gear to check smoothness 5) check gear freeplay in each gear, turn input shaft back and forth whilst holding output shaft still 6) check seals are okay, so it didnt run dry (replace seals later with new ones though) 7) check input and output shaft sideplay, ie wobble shafts and see if there is a lot of play 8) get a short warranty so if the internals are bad eg syncros etc you can swap it for another one 9) buy new seals and the correct oil for it (can flush it out - ie oil change after first drive) 10) get a price to get it done by a mechanic, it might be worth it.

if your gearbox is broken the bits will most likely damage other parts or already have, so its not really worth fixing especially if its old and worn... parts and labour to rebuild a fwd box and remove / install is around $1000 or so. i would say your best solution is to source a 2nd hand gearbox for a few hundred, get it checked over really well and then get a mechanic to install it for you for around $200. give the gearbox a flush and top up with new oil and maybe new shaft seals for the box as these will be well worn and most likely be perished as well causing them to leak.

also could be your master cylinder isnt working properly. or air in the system - bleed out using the one man bleeder kit.

doesnt sound good, electric as in proximity sensing type? ie hall effect etc...

its all about the tyre, what width tyre will you use?

erm not really as such, due to cars having different suspension setups on the front end... sure you can put them in categories but they still have some minor differences and procedures car to car... i would say your best bet is to ask on a forum that has that type of car model and hope someone helps you out. i honestly would buy a manual for $30 or so, it would be useful for all future work and could save hours on end not to mention you get the job done properly and safely first time.

word of the day is... drivability. be careful when ringing every last hp out a motor, its a pig to drive. the cars purpose, your budget, quality of build desired, time frame, avaliable effort etc etc all will help you to determine what motor in what state suits you best.

well its not magical, its REAL but the electric supercharger made from 2 pc fans adds so much power you might not believe it! TWO 80mm fans both flowing at 2000rpm EACH!!! THATS LIKE 2 SUPERCHARGERS OR TURBOS STRAIGHT INTO YOUR ENGINE!!! and they run straight off your BATTERY with speaker wire so EASY INSTALLING WOW everyone says how much better the car is after no wonder they buy them FITS all CARS every type ever made and maybe BIKES So CHEAP compared to real superchargers or turbos much less COST

proper short shift changes pivot point to enable LESS ANGLE between shifts which results in LESS THROW, short gearstick is the SAME ANGLE as stock but cut down to enable LESS THROW... often the gears are shifted too quickly and it doesnt allow the syncros to do their job and synchronize the next gear selected so i would be careful in what you choose, the key being a comfortable easy to use gearstick in the end... so short shift if you can't cut it down without it being too hard to use... short gearstick if you can cut it down and its easier to use...

yeah the torx bits are best, erwin tools make a set of extractors (torx style bits) that work really well, philips head are no good and easy outs are hit and miss. else get a bolt extractor mobile van to come out for guaranteed success.

just to add normal air is about 78% nitrogen anyway...

also don't bother with a rebuild kit, the seals can be a right pain to try and put on... and then its got to be honed and outside cleaned and painted... not worth it at all. the old early galant ones bolt one and are twin circuit, with 3 bore sizes to suit. hard to get hold of at times but if you can't locate one let me know and i will look it up for you. do a search, the galant brake master specs are floating around here somewhere...

depends if you have the small front eye or large front eye on the main leaf, and then you can get a full inverted eye or a half if you wanted too although a half inverted eye can be a bit of work on the leaf pack sometimes and therefore not so common - usually used if a full inverted eye fouls on the carrier / chassis during suspension travel... with both eyes inverted fully: large eye = 2 inch approx small eye = 1 1/2 inch approx check you can invert the eyes without it fouling on the carrier / chassis during suspension travel and you definately have to cut down one of the bolts that fouls on the leaf after inverting - its a simple 5 min job though for each side. thats all i seem to remember about it...

that sir would be a world record! good luck to you even though i think it would take a LOT longer!

theres a thread on 15 inch 114.3x4 pcd stock rims, has about 6 different ones, have a search around...

3tgteu is an old and rare motor both in buying one, oem parts and aftermarket parts... they are a twinspark motor with expensive twinspark dizzy setup and a basic fuel only computer thats best changed to aftermarket or delco setup. needs a really good tune to run about 12psi else forgies are required. easy to swap the bigger single wastegate ct26 found on supras but most of them would require a rebuild, better off with a new turbo. injectors need upgrading and good idea to also get a better turbo manifold. oem parts are non existant or very expensive, aftermarket are expensive as well. much better idea to run a ca18det in all aspects if you ask me...

maybe he picked up his game, i waited about a year for paid parts.