styler

^^^ This man, he knows... Also damper insert options and coil over kit options... if you get the idea :)

Yeah good idea on those tool sets, force are the best I have found so far... What about the smaller tool set that has most of that gear but is under $400? I have the smaller set and it has the full basics, I ended up buying flare wrenches and circlip pliers as part of my other specialized tool set which is made up of pullers and clutch alignment tools etc...

unfortunately common laser cutting stainless steel grades are 304, 316 and 2205 duplex sheet.

Friend of mine did a last minute service on his 4x4 before a beach trip and while changing oil forgot to put the sump plug back in and drained the new oil into the drop pan with the old stuff, he put the plug back in and then proceeded to concentrate really hard looking at the pan and very carefully he scooped out the "newer oil" and put it back in the engine.

Dude a few Kg really as bare struts if you think about it.

Here is a reference picture of a redrilled ke20 mounting flange from m8 to m10, notice the casting is about 8mm thick at best which is fine for m8 but not for m10 regarding strength and engagement as from an engineering perspective.

Its an ignition box that improves spark and adds multispark discharge - CDI and sometimes rev limit which is useful but it doesn't do the actual ignition timing, although it is good its only going to improve the effectiveness of the current curve, which may be fairly mild if stock. Electronic dizzys only relate to the pickup - ie the sensor part, the rest is mechanical and uses weights, pins and cams to rotate the shaft ie twist it when in motion to provide variable advance as the unit spins, the more rpm the more the shaft unit twists ie advances. In a dizzy recurve you try to make the most powerful curve, without detonation and interesting that sometimes it can be more mild than the most aggressive curve without detonation. Its in 3 parts. The Initial (Min) The Ramp (Min to max) All In (Max) Min has to be low enough so the engine doesn't detonate when starting or use reduction starter The ramp is as fast as possible without detonation The max as high as possible without detonation The fun is that all 3 are linked and so changing one changes the others and may put it out, it takes a while changing springs, weights and travel and base timing to get all 3 parts working together but it really is a good modification for a worked motor. Performance ignition places have a dizzy machine and loads of weights/springs to play with and they just get your engine specs and make a curve to suit. Yeah there's no way a more powerful ignition system would be comparable to a dizzy regraph in terms of performance, they are just 2 different things altogether. Also you are probably going to need a new coil to suit the aftermarket ignition box.

Camber is needed if you lean on the front wheels a lot to maintain tyre contact patch through a turn, if you aren't driving in this style it will just prematurely wear your tyres so consider your driving style first and then secondly consider that camber tops are adjustable on the fly ie easily vs lower control arms which are somewhat permanent during driving, so its better to do camber tops if your strut springs allow the movement in the wheel arch without contacting the strut tower and you might have to convert to coil overs as qld code / ncop only allows 25mm tack increase overall so its a more flexible solution really in relation to tyre wear and doesn't increase track, which is often taken up easily by wider wheels with a different offset wheels which uses the 25mm track increase, 12.5mm per side from stock.

Here you go, the angle grinder pin spanners, come in fixed sizes and an adjustable one. Just buy one that suits, ie will fit as some may be too small or some might need a touch of grinding near the pins to go around the shaft of the shock. Supercheap has the adjustable one for $8. Adjustable - http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/594/104586.jpg Fixed - http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/847/1267615166anglegrinders.jpg :y: Or for nut style OEM - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CHANNELLOCK-MULTIGRIP-9-10-MULTI-GRIP-PLIERS-/120750023179?pt=AU_HandTools&hash=item1c1d43220b

The best way for oem big nut would be a big set of multigrips +1 Trade tools has a good set for about $15 Theres special sized pin spanners for those aftermarket recessed types ones if you can find them and if they are cheap enough... Shock manufacturers or suspension stores might have them. The best way i have found so far for the average person is a big adjustable pin spanner used to change discs in an angle grinder because you can keep it square in the recesses and all the force turns it, as opposed to driving it on the angle using a punch because it really mangles it up. Cost is around $10

These convert my car to this car ideas do pop up every now and again but the reality is its going to be very difficult and expensive to do properly as most people realize eventually... do some forum searches and you will find a few old threads with abandoned ideas of past attempts... Why not restore a ke10 to overrated spec, build an all out GT4 weapon and save the rest of the the time, money and effort for other things?

Spot on.

Also you can hardface a normal cam to cut big grinds and keep the same valvetrain geometry.

I wouldnt bother with second hand especially regarding the whole push/pull reversing which might not be possible and it being old and having to remount it somehow and doing the relay and wiring, at least the universal ones can be mounted easily and come with all the hardware for install and mounting except thermo switch setup. Important though, the universal radiator mount method is a poor design. Make some brackets up to mount to the car then mount the fan through these if you can, the fan shroud must be up flush with the radiator though which makes this difficult for the bolts to be installed. OR Mount the fan through the brackets you made up and through the radiator at least this takes the loading off the fins/tubes and onto the brackets all while being easy to install and bolt up.

Amusing.

Davies craig aftermarket thermo with either plumb in switch into radiator hose or brazed into radiator itself. Tridon catalogue for thermo switch fittings and temps or ebay for plumb in one (usually adjustable) but more expensive.

Over time cables just stretch and kink up internally when installed with bends, even with oiling... Buy a new cable, std or teflon one. Shorten and carefully deburr end, fit cap. Buy end stop from bike shop. Fit and drive away?

I think its around 160kg, add 30kg for gearbox. Hell if you lifted that entirely off the ground and moved it a few meters - well yeah I'd be impressed!

Ah seems the other thread this is going on about this rollaclub

Ah you can still get bigger boosters but yeah not much chance with matching up to both existing mountings, probably can do a bigger booster with new master cylinder attached, drill new firewall holes to mount and make pushrod to suit. But yeah shouldn't be leaking on the master regardless, a new booster won't solve that problem, just make it worse if thats the cause which is unlikely... Probably just a worn master cylinder... Oh and boosters might be available new as well.

Good swap above for bigger brakes but don't do with standard brakes, the increase in diameter might not be much but if you work out the cross section it could be way off for standard calipers.

Checked: Must be 350mm or over (In some states) It has to be padded if padded originally It has to be airbag if airbag originally Not woodgrain at all (Too hard for impact) Sometimes Checked: Steering wheel ADR approved (Stamped on back) Boss kit ADR approved as well (Stamped on back) Should be indicator cancelling checked Should be horn contact checked Cannot obstruct instruments on dash in straight ahead position

new ones could be around the $120 mark?

Yes some RT104 are T series, some Borg Warner so you will have to check first! All are leaf spring type as far as I know which is good. Check the ratio as well, may be quite low eg 3.9

I'd recommend the entry innovate motorsports wideband kit over all the rest by far, but with wideband you would need the 4/5/6 wire wideband sensor installed - common one is bosch 5 wire. Its about $350 for the set - bosch 5 wire sensor, control unit/datalogger and in cabin gauge but it's worth it compared to narrowband at $200 or so as honestly every time I have seen a narrowband it's just a few random blinking lights in operation, especially after being in there for some time, they they don't compare to wideband at all mainly due to the narrow hysteresis band at stoich that the narrowbands operate off.