styler

Love the build :) Regarding custom tailshafts I have just been through getting one made up, theres a few good ones in Brisbane but I went with Knox Driveline Services as recommended off toymods, old mate there is really good and helpful which seemed to be lacking in the local mobs mainly with yoke and flange specs. It is the bigger unis that count for the higher strength but they only come in increased tube sizes so upsize it is. Around $400 for 3 inch shaft with hardie spicer bigger unis - new uni with gearbox yoke one side and new uni with diff flange other side. I had to measured gearbox yoke diameter and splines, distance from gearbox seal to diff flange and diff flange bolt pattern, bolt size and spigot diameter. When installed the yoke should hang out the gearbox seal 20mm / 25mm as standard which is done in house measurement. Also with your build the alignment off the unis must be equally off centre to rotate smoothly, just to note with alignment of gearbox and diff else you get an inherent vibration.

1) 2t crank + 2t pistons 2) 3t crank + 3t pistons

No the pin height is way different to compensate for the stroke of the crank, 2t pistons on 3tc would poke out the bores and smash the head if installed.

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Its not that easy, last I looked the lower control arm has only a small section around the balljoint hole so it can't be enlarged and also the balljoints can be different heights for different cars. Then the stud and taper can be different again. But someone may have found something that works by now... One difficult part was lack of balljoint catalogues and dimensions to cross reference the application.

Yeah the hopper stoppers kit may come with billet 5 stud hubs actually, probably also spaces it out though? 114.3x4 is all the good wheel choices for the older corollas, 5 stud has limited wheel options. Maybe convert the rear to 114.3x4? http://hoppers.com.au/

15"x10" will make your steering very heavy due to the large scrub radius, I can't imagine theres too much room under the guard and so the wheel offset would be very low, therefore resulting in a large scrub radius. Max tyre size is also 1.3x manufacturers biggest option for that car series for qld regulations. Tyre stretch reduces traction and grip if that's what you want.

Yeah just remember where people get caught out on this one is that the live axle travels with both wheels straight upwards under accelearation, not like independent where the wheels squat and move inwards with an arc motion. What the japs do for live axle is run small wheels and stretched rubber to get around this and it allows some but not a lot of wheel travel. Might draw some pics during the week to explain but if you can think logically that wheel is going to go somewhere when it moves, how does it move and how far is it going to go?

Bolt on hub adapters are also about 20mm / 25mm thick so it spaces the wheels out and adds to track, just something to consider but there are good ones with hubcentric spigots on them just not sure if they are the same size spigot front and rear though. You can only add 25mm to wheel track in total, ie 12.5mm per side for qld regulations but wheel offset also affects this.

Ke corollas have single skin front guards and double skin rear wheel well. So for the fronts you bolt them on and trace an outline and cut a bit below that so the flare and bolts have something to mount on. It's wise to add a strengthing strip behind as the original lip now been cut out, I would recommend some really small aluminium box section or thick flat strap formed to the arch and then the flare bolts through that as well. That's as far as I have thought it through. Rears are a double skin wheel well and it needs to be reformed through fabrication by cutting and then extending the wheel well straight outwards using a weld in strip and fabricated back on to the existing skin to leave only the inner well intact and the flare forms the other half outer section. I have seen pop rivited and fibreglassed jobs but it's not as strong or well done as the welded jobs. Or you can flare out the arch with a guard roller a certain amount before it distorts the bodywork and run the flare over that but it's a second rate job but avoids the difficult fabrication so is common. It can be tricky. Remember the arc that the wheel travels in is different for independent and live axle setups so consider the motion and clearance you need when the suspension is operating in that area. That's as far as I got and haven't cut anything yet so we will see.

Just remember the actual stub axle, bearings and flange are very small on a corolla.

Yeah electronic iginition systems from factory usually has adjustable dwell, but some of those aftermarket pickups don't at all they just send the signal. Theres ballast and non ballast systems as mentioned and need the setup to suit. Expoxy coils are only for high vibration enviroments, oil filled has much better cooling. CDI has short duration high intensity spark and actually needs to multispark to get a good burn time especially at lower rpms. Have you measured dwell with a multimeter, could be a good idea to see what's going on.

Maybe the marking on your crank pulley is wrong, check that it's actually at TDC. Check the dizzy internals ie that the advance mechanism is all there, connected and not jammed up.

Yeah the weights add to clamping load at high rpm as they get thrown outwards in a centrifugal motion. Centreforce bases all of it's clutch line on this theroy but theres been some debates to it's effectiveness and it adds complications to the clutch mechanism in operation and manufacture so I wasn't sold on it really... http://www.centerforce.com/ http://www.centerforce.com/technology/centerforce-weights

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Camshafts with aftermarket grinds can also be dialled in... ie purposely set in advance or retard to make optimal power. Another thing to check is that the pulley mark is actually set at TDC with the piston, for the advance timing section on the block. This can be done using a plug stop or dial gauge down the bore to find the TDC.

Yeah at idle should be about say 12 deg and then as you rev it should go to say 32 deg max. Vac advance not working can also muck things up, timing is always done with vac OFF. Twin carbs don't always run well with vac advance system and also theres manifold and ported vacuum which are different options to add to the confusion! Most dizzys that are cam driven with the oil pump have a slot so can be put in 180 deg out as the slot can be rotated 180 deg to fit in again but usually this misfires really badly. The dizzy has initial range of say 10 - 20 deg when your rotate it for base timing and then the mech advance of say 20 deg for a stock dizzy before it maxes out, so say max 40 deg total. Vacuum pulls extra timing if it's connected when theres a vacuum condition. Don't rev it up with heaps of advance, as the engine will detonate ie ignite too early on the upwards stroke and put extra strain on engine components trying to complete the stroke. Points gap set properly? Not sure if relevant but may be.

Haha classic.

Very lean and not idle - may be related to vacuum leaks Revs back down - may be related to not using a seperate linkage return spring or sticky cable

I would make sure they are set up correctly to start with and then tune, most problems with tuning are from a bad setup to start with or worn parts. Theres a few weber books and online guides you could check out...

Ah yes also have seen pod box filters like philbeys Unifilter as well, think ITG and Pipercross do them too.

Yeah it's a pain... Also theres only room for either trumpets or air filters but now there are trumpet mesh filters or super low profile bolt on trumpet lips to help with clearance.

Fair enough :)

I can't understand the fascination with trying to fit some random radiator in another car rather than 3 core the original and move the inlet/outlet if needed, I'd consider that first as it may solve mounting / cooling / plumbing issues all in one...

Hmmmm still on the 2k challenge I see... I must admit that theres an illusion sometimes in that buying the car and then an engine to use for a conversion seems like you are 90% done already, just bolt it in and away you go! But when it's hanging off the engine crane and you are trying to position it in the bay then the problems start to roll in... 2k for engine conversion maybe but not for a full car build ie brakes, suspension, engine management, driveline and exhaust to match etc but give it a go and throw some more money at it later I guess.