styler

Well so far I have these numbers: ke25: +30p or +32p offset 4.5 or 4.0 width 12 inch rim te27: +30p or +27p offset 5.5 or 5.0 width 13 inch rim Thats it so far havent got it down yet but its a start

See if you can find a few books to read on suspension, well worth it in my opinion... Don't lower the car too much, the rear roll centre is fixed unless watts type 2 installed.

You should have that clutch linkage in double shear, have you been slacking on your studies! Bracket on the other side for the win :) Easy to do with section of flat plate from firewall to pivot point. Seen people get away with the simple extension on a std clutch but with hd pressure plate it fails.

Is it 2 door coupe or 2 door sedan? ie ke20 or ke25 model?

2T for originality 3T for availabilty 2TG for performance

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You are really going to try and do this? Just out of interest why not just get a 2 door sedan in the first place?

Also rare spares does ke20/ke25 lower guard repair sections for about $50 a side last I looked.

Heres the pic, its the te27 trueno's had the high side indicators and no garnish.

Hmmm can't fully remember but I presumed te27 as there was a fender mirror hole pre drilled and the side indicator was much higher up than early / late ke25. Could be a aftermarket version of te27 made from the blank though ie same pattern but different holes not sure.

Ok. Went through about 30 of them, was told they were NOS and could be but could also likely be old aftermarket in my opinion. They are old either way, some have surface rust and some have quite a few dings or scratches but they are light and easily fixed, not perfect or new by any stretch of the imagination, each piece varies in condition. There was from memory: few late passenger side many late driver side few early passenger side few early driver side few te27 style ones Early and late can be interchanged: Early > Late: Fit later corner garnish and cut out hole for side indicator. Late > Early: Weld up side hole for indicator and cut out hole for early corner garnish. Te27 style ones have a fender mirror hole and the side indicator hole is much higher up. Now just be careful as they do vary in condition, some are warped and some have actual proper rust not just surface rust and others have more than a few dents but hey it's rare stuff and the price reflects that so it seems. It's not a listed part number or an off the shelf regular item, it's more like an inspection purchase of sorts.

I actually went through the whole lot of them one by one, I will see if I can remember the details of them and post up later...

The spacer is tricky with bolt holes as they locate on the bolt hole spigot and then you have to extend the bottom bit under the lever which is best done in some sort of jig and tig welded. Try a custom fabrication place, 15 - 20mm is what you want for about 33% - 50% reduction in throw.

Theres short shifters and shortened shifters if that makes sense. You can have one or the other or even both as they are different. A short shifter reduces throw on a gearlever by lengthing the pivot point and a spacer to compensate. (The angle of changing gears is reduced at the same height - ie less throw) A shortened shifter reduces throw by shortening the gearstick. (The angle of changing gears is the same but on a reduced height - ie less throw) Whats the difference? The gearstick height from the steering wheel, really for performance you want that gearstick close to the wheel and not buried in the gearstick boot somewhere on the floor half a meter away. The short shifter was a proper race thing but needs fabrication and can be cost a bit if not off shelf, the shortened shifter is a cheap and nasty way of trying to get the same result I guess but people still do it and call it a short shifter anyway hence the confusion of it all.

Go have a look if you can, it's a mixed bunch... Was something like heaps of one side but not the other and heaps of early or late models for ke20/ke25's.... some are good, some need work. was told they are genuine and its possible but my gut feeling says aftermarket. Are you after one side or a pair? Early or late?

In short corollas are fun, cheap and easy to work on. What sort of resources do you have though? Cars are basically time, money and effort and a plan from the start tends to see projects finished, at about double the cost and twice the skinned knuckles but hey that's the love you gotta give!

Hilux diff is heaps of work though... what motor is it behind?

So far I've come across sheet metal nuts, slotted nuts and pin style nuts with the last two being a pain as a punch mangles them or you buy an adjustable pin spanner and sometimes grind it to suit. Last I remember I just yanked the whole lot out after removing the gland nut but hey I could be wrong :P

Hmmm I'm sure after a few pulls it all just popped out as the thread doesn't go that far down but if its threaded its probably just done up gently and not torqued up... or so you hope!

Hmmm are you sure it doesn't just pop out after the retaining nut is removed? I dismantled wet struts once and didn't have any hassles that I remember... I have seen aftermarket dampers come with a new nut with the holes you describe and the trick is to use an adjustable pin spanner which is used to change the discs on angle grinders or weld on extensions to the pins if the access is very recessed.

What... the.... fark. Called them up a few months ago and they carried on saying nothing pre 90's left here.

You might have to rethink that seat mount idea as it won't hold up too well strength wise, maybe with thicker flat bar, closer bolt mounting and extended length under rail it might though... The problem is bolting it or welding it to the rail isn't always easy unfortunately.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftdgB93QOD8&feature=related

Might be bent shafts...

Stud pattern can be changed by replacing front hubs and rear axles, search around and check the wiki