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styler

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Everything posted by styler

  1. Nice wheels :) Moving fast on the build already!
  2. Theres type 1 coilovers which are your std bottom spring perch adjustable type (aftermarket or diy) - Older And theres type 2 as Jono.c has illustrated which are base height adjustable coilovers (aftermarket) - Newer Basically type 2 allows ride height adjustment on the base, independant of the suspension travel at the top. The AE86 struts last I looked were the same length as you are asking, other specs varied like diameter etc...
  3. Half cage is really a rollover hoop, it good as a rollover safety measure but its not a cage. New NCOP is currently no 6 point cages last I looked. 3 point retractable seatbelts allow you to perform street driving duties which a harness may not. Bucket seat must be adr approved with engineered rails. Note seats that may "meet" adr are not adr "approved" ie tested.
  4. DIY coilovers are an absolute headache, some people even build multiple sets before it all works out. Check out AE86 damper insert options, just google it and there's a few lists that may help you out.
  5. Great update :) What did you end up paying for the headers if you don't mind me asking?
  6. Yeah heard a lot of stories with sour deals on the chrome jobs but there are reputable places around, some advice would be to use the best piece you have as the repair work adds up quickly before its final plated. The hotrod guys would probably have the best places sussed out by now...
  7. There's 60 thou oversize in replacement pistons (1.5mm) so just get a set of those http://www.precisionintl.com/StockSearch.aspx?Search=3k%20pistons
  8. It looks like the carrier that the bearing sits on can possibly be machined down to drop the 2t bearing height and hence restore the original geometry of everything. Other options are to use the 3t bearing but with a machined ID collar spacer to fit the 2t carrier, but this is messy and also the carrier would need a lot of additional machining down to suit the extra 3t bearing height. Theres a a chance that a 3t bearing carrier may also fit and work in a 2t box but yet to see if its possible.
  9. Just found this thread while searching and one difference not mentioned is the pressure plate fingers are a few mm taller on the 3t, as well as the throwout bearing is a few mm thicker as well compared to the 2t. The 3t throwout bearing has a bigger ID and wont fit on the 2t collar at all so you need to use a combo of >>> 2t bearing, 3t pressure plate and 3t friction disc and it will be only slightly taller which is the best case scenario so far I would say...
  10. Best advice, having been through this is to strip the car interior for access and get the dent removal guys out to do mass panel work first, then change any panels that are rusty or too far gone. Strip car down except the rear axle - for mobility and get a pro tig welder guy to do chassis rust repairs by cutting up and forming some old panels with non rusty sections. Get an inspection camera and look into every hole, sill and crevice for rust. Blow out all the internal crap and repair if needed. You will put in some type of cavity wax at some point. Then off to the painters. Choose your painter wisely, it makes every difference. I got quotes from $2000 to $20000 for the same job but with a different quality of finish. Go and see workshops and talk to the owners, this is by far the most essential part of getting a car painted. Trust me you will get a feel pretty quick for the type of work they do and what sort of quality they can produce for your budget. You might laugh at this last tip but make sure they can put your car undercover the entire time, a stripped down car sitting in the rain all weekend isn't great for rust protection. To be honest any money spent upfront is saved twofold down the line, best guys are hotrod / classic restoration guys but they can get expensive. The cost is all in the prep really and thats what the guys will want to see for themselves. Best to drive around with the car first, even on a car trailer if unregistered from workshop to workshop and get them to have a look. A lot of workshops wont even ballpark a figure without seeing the car first. Good luck :)
  11. I reckon its not worth it unless you work the 2t, they really are pretty tractor like in stock form...
  12. The only thing I can think of for said jittering is fluid filled gauges but yet to see a tacho with it...
  13. Alternative calipers may be the go, like ke55/70 girlocks.
  14. Dude the axle stub flexes and the wheel bearing also wears down, both add to the movement of the wheel. Some people run a few mm but really something like 5mm at least would be reasonable. That area that is binding is known as the X Factor and is often overlooked when considering fitment.
  15. Cool :) Love the wheels Have you fitted one of these cages before?
  16. Never really heard of any problems with the tacho gauge itself, with decent brands anyway.... Might need to smooth out the signal as above if its from the coil but should be sweet after that.
  17. Hmmm brake master bracing would be good, more so if no booster as well?
  18. Galant boosters suit in a variety of master diameters, just need to double check suitability.
  19. They should be the same thing listed under 2 applications.
  20. Yeah not sure if they are the same as https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/kp61/kp61-ae86-conversion-steering-knuckles You want the ae86 strut to small balljoint knuckles, email gabe from technotoytuning and double check they are the same.
  21. T series would be the ideal upgrade. No need to convert to disc, upgrade the front discs if anything. The T series diffs vary in width and mounting points so try get one closer to your width. LSD are widely available for T series in 1 way, 1.5 way and 2 way if you look around...
  22. Yeah man, seems odd... Those measurements are all centre to centre for rods centre of crankshaft to face of block centre of pin to crown height for pistons (Ie not to the dish or the dome) Hmmmm
  23. So trying to just confirm the deck height of the 3k at 185.5 and the 4k at 196.0? Deck height being from crank centreline to top of block. Doesn't seem to add up with stroke and piston height measurements as follows.... So 3k deck height would be 66/2 stroke + 113 rod + 35.5 piston height = 181.5mm And 4k deck height would be 73/2 stroke + 120 rod + 35.5 piston height = 192mm What is missing here?
  24. The engine conversion process can be a little something like this... Engine size, engine mounts, gearbox size, gearbox mounts, gearstick position, tailshaft adaption, exhuast system, fuel system, radiator inlets/outlets, intake box, clutch linkage, wiring factory / aftermarket. That gets the motor conversion done. Then sometimes you need an bigger diff to handle more power and bigger brakes to stop you as well as better suspension to handle going faster around corners. Theres a guy on here who does a HEAP of work into engine conversion mounts and sells the kits to suit a few different motors into ke rollas, so check that out as well.
  25. Yes the early ke20/25 are a small front eye and the late ke20/25 are a big front eye. Big eye bushes still available but the small eye bushes seem to be out of production, They can be made by machining another close fitting bush in the catalogue though.
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