styler

Work needed with Valves, Deshrouding, Seats, Ports, Guides, Compression. Need a much longer valve length to be able to cut off the old groove and cut a new one in, also look at lash caps as the stellite ends will be cut off.

The ke2x early and late fenders are different in the indicator and corner garnish. They are able to be changed with some work from one type to the other.

Also be careful of aftermarket boss kits, some are good eg Saas and some are really bad. I needed the Saas one re-tapered as it was too tight and didnt engage properly.

I have seen a few pics and I know its tight on most ke corollas but not sure exactly of what carb type or manifold is one each one though... Just wanted to know what people think of the clearances regarding the twin carb setup, would be 2 weber dcoe 40's on the redline manifold and what that clearance would be to the strut tower. Then trumpets, air filters and gap can be thought of. Not sure if you can tilt the engine a bit over with a thin 5mm spacer plate under the engine mount for extra room without going the full trd upright kit and its list of additional mods.

Any chance of switching to the ke2x column with its later features and easier parts?

Also getting the flywheel machined is half of the job, just look up the step for machining from out the k series engine manual.

Yeah good work, my first swap was forgetting the starter motor removal, the gear stick removal and the oil drain from gearbox before tailshaft removal, got the speedo done though. Also yeah cable clutch is removed from top as altezza has mentioned on k most motors. Need the universal clutch alignment tool for refit or sometimes new clutch kits have plastic dummy shaft with the kit. Jack can help as well with holding the weight of gearbox, while refitting. New Crankshaft bearing can be of use as well.

Also you may like to know that there are some slightly fancier timing lights with an advance wheel built in.

Advancing a stock distributor is the wrong way to adjust the timing curve, it needs to be recurved with vacuum advance deleted. Also your standard ignition system using points and factory coil may need changing to a performance setup. Factory valve spring pressure may not match the cam and can cause a natural rev limit through valve float. Base Timing is at idle rpm Mechanical Advance is the advance the distributor adds Full Advance is Base Timing + Mechanical Advance "All in" is the rpm that Full Advance is set to Vacuum Advance operates under certain conditions for economy but becomes less effective with a recurved dizzy and adds an additional timing factor and setup, difficult to use with twin carbs and is best deleted in a lot of peoples opinion. Base timing is done with the Vacuum Advance off in a factory setup just for reference.

Yeah its all about static comp vs dynamic comp, the 1k motor would have had a smaller combustion chamber so with standard cams the dynamic comp would probably have been too high on most pump fuel.

Well stumbled upon this history with a lot to learn about Toyota and the guys behind the scene, covers all the models from birth to the latest corolla and is a great read for those that haven't seen it already so thought I'd post it up, learnt a few things myself! http://www.toyota-global.com/showroom/vehicle_heritage/corolla/collection/

Omega jacks http://www.shinnfu.c...page_10849.html http://www.cdaets.com.au/

Wrecker dampers would almost be free, doubt they would charge you much at all. Unfortunately its a lot of work to get them out and its hit and miss on the condition, most likely worn. Try a suspension shop or ebay.

Neoprene is only recommended for rally cars that have to drive underwater for long periods.

Some bushes are difficult to find eg ke2x small leaf eye bush isnt made anymore last I looked. Try superpro, they have most of them and are the right hardness. I think theres a few sizes for the swaybar, so measure yours first.

There are spring clamps that lower coil springs by clamping some coils together and are a permanent thing, not a good idea. Spring compressors as such clamp down coils just to allow you to install and remove springs into the strut assembly, known for being abused and also cheap versions exploding as such I recommend you look around for good ones that are good quality and fit to the coil. Consider a suspension place to do it all for you, it could be cheaper them buying the parts and its an easy job.

What about running one leaf to locate and provide the suspension direction and using a range of softer swap in coil springs... Would probably need a panhard rod to locate the system and then of course the upper towers and lower bottom mounts would be quite a bit of work unfortunately. Also the standard multilink rear end was a vast improvement over the standard leaf spring suspension issues that were part of the design. Maybe just get 3 leaf packs made up but it does take a while to replace them...

You need the shortest length shifter position for this one, crossmember mods and a custom tailshaft last I remember....

I have one rebuilt D dish head 18cc chamber, would sell pm me.

Well its a car modification site so yeah, knock yourself out on builds, mods, tech.... um plenty here.... and humour..... Interesting point regarding CDI or Multispark is that most only perform the function up to 3000rpm. Which is the point that most k motors with warm / hot cams start coming "on cam" so its a slightly wasted function. Good for cold starts and cold running I guess...

+1

Apparently the superlites have been bought out by another local company to continue manufacturing but no other styles at this stage, so thats some good news :)

Hmmm seems a sad state of affairs, especially for the beloved superlites and many other popular classic wheels these guys used to make. Heard they stopped production last year and have a limited stock of whats left. Always thought they were a great wheel for the price and heaps better than some other brands that carried a bad reputation. Probably the time to get in there and ask for a spare for your set as they sell single wheels last time I looked.

Theres GL4 and GL5 gear type oils. GL4 is the older version that is yellow metal friendly and doesnt contain the extreme pressure additive. GL5 is the newer version that contains an extreme pressure additive and is not yellow metal friendly. Current GL5 now claims to be compatible with yellow metals but some people just prefer to rely on GL4, thats what I seemed to make of it all anyway...

A ta22 20 spline gearbox will bolt up but the 4ag t50 gearbox won't. The bellhousing is different and won't bolt on. The 4ag gearbox section can be bolted on to the ta22 bellhousing section with some input bearing mods. Thats as far as I got with it, see if tojo2 can help you out as he has had a fair of them apart and checked the compatibility...