styler

I think the TE models had the 2TC 1.6L so if its for engineering purposes it may be fine but if its for country compliance it may not, the biggest capacity for later KE3x model as the updated KE5x model seems to be the 1.3L 4k. The TE models may have also have had uprated brakes and suspension to suit the bigger motor. Thats all I can think of now but check the NCOP for engineered engine conversions as opposed to straight engine swaps, just do it under an engine conversion.

There are a few ways about upgrading front brakes: All need consideration to the braking system as a whole which includes a lot of tech to make it all work together as a working, balanced system. This includes front to rear brake bias, master cylinders, cylinder capacity, residual pressure valves, pedal travel and force calculations... etc etc And of course the rear brakes. Research and use and approved Engineer before doing anything. Regarding the basic front brake upgrade component side of things... 1) Use the original struts with the original mounting face. This is usually a custom job for the brackets using modified rotors and some type of bigger factory caliper to suit. The strength of the original mounting must be taken into considered as the bigger brakes will put more force through the original spindle, bearings, and mounting face. Some people find calipers, rotors and make some custom brackets to suit. Some companies do off the shelf "Bolt on bigger brake systems" like Hopper stoppers for instance. 2) Use another similar strut with its bigger factory OEM brake setup and adapt it to the existing suspension, this can lead to suspension and handling complications but may work with the appropriate modifications. This can be quite economical as the suspension can be cheaper and easier to adapt than the brakes but needs to be properly adapted which often is not and leads to problems. 3) Use another strut and another brake setup if a known easy brake upgrade to a popular strut has been found and then adapt that strut to your cars suspension and handling needs. Often it just happens that a certain strut has a really easy bolt on brake upgrade or has minimal modifications so the brake work is done, just needs the strut work into the car. This can also be quite economical as the suspension can be cheaper and easier to adapt than the brakes but needs to be properly adapted which often is not and leads to problems.

Just from experience, significantly bigger valves need bigger seats, deshrouding and port work to work well, its all about flow, slapping in slightly bigger valves on recut seats and hoping for a magical performance increase just won't happen. Not with a 7k anyway. After a quick look at the 7k it really is not a performance motor, its a work horse. Proceed with caution, modifications may upset the horse.

Hmmm from a quick search seems the 7k are 36mm Inlet and 29mm Exhaust like most k series? I would say the head on the 7k is a huge restriction from a performance aspect and it seems you can't do too much about it, it looks like its built for steady torque being undersquare 80.5 x 87.5mm Anyway try here for some Datsun valve sizes http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=A-series_Cylinder_Heads http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=L-series_Engine_Components

Maybe the motor is worn out and the clearances are too big, when the oil heats up it thins out and seeps out too quickly losing pressure.

Clutch type LSD needs the LSD oil.

Leave the going sideways for crabs, they have the parts to do it well. You most likely want to go forwards at speed and reverse slowly once in a while. Seems you want bolt on horsepower, relax you need nos, you need one of these, actually make it two, and you need them by tonight [] NOS []NOS. Small turbo systems are a great way to add some power cheaply without working the internals of the motor like in a NA build, intercoolers and boost controllers are good too. More power eventually leads to less reliability unless you rebuild the motor to handle more killer wasps buzzing around in there trying to get out. The 3tgteu is the turbo motor you may be thinking of, the intakes do not match up but you can make an adapter plate to allow them to eventually match up. Keeping it simple with bolt ons sounds like a recommendation after a facelift, doesn't really work with cars, unless you already have the facelift model. For you, BRD Racing can build you a mild 3tc and you can swap it in and live a happy life.

Yeah that would be an interference fit, just do the same to remove. Heat up plates in oven and then use freeze spray on the bearing and a suitable drift to tap them out. To install heat plates and put bearings in freezer until they can be tapped in with suiable drift. Just gotta make sure they go in straight using a suitable drift so it doesn't jam or damage the bearings or housing.

The bearing cold be a spherical bearing that is worn out or is loose in its housing, could be a press fit or circlip holding it in. The top section of a coilover needs some design to it, too many people put them together incorrectly which could be the cause of noises and binding and stuff wearing out quickly. Channel lock pliers can be an economical glant nut tool if the nuts are in good condition and have some WD40 on the thread.

Parrot is right, there is hardly any room to move inwards with standard springs. The camber tops would only go in maybe 1cm so around 1 deg. The AE86 struts have a different stub axle angle called the "Included Angle" which is the angle of the strut leg to the stub axle. This change of angle in the AE86 struts in a KE25 causes slight positive camber which is then can be corrected with camber plates. If you use coilovers the plates can allow more negative camber to be put into the front end so its a worthwhile investment but it does cost a fair bit for everything...

Yeah I'd love to get a set, will ring them again

If that rear seal ever leaks again just tap off the guard and use a seal puller, something like this...

Rare spares just laughed and said they hadn't sold one in twenty years, unless you know something I don't! That was about two years ago but there is a chance I can get someone to make them, just that lower repair section.

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Yeah I'm sure a few more people could add some valuable advice, thinking back... some starting points of project cars or restorations... 1) You need a seperate daily driver, a turn key operation. Something that gets you around. Not the project car. Something reliable. 2) Buy the best condition car you can, money spent up front on good paint, straight bodywork and little rust pays itself over may times. 3) If its a first project car, you could do a car thats popular so you can follow other peoples path and use the same parts / methods. 4) You need somewhere to work on the car that it doesnt need to be moved for periods of time, if outside use premium waterproof car cover. 5) Essential tools... internet, forums, vernier calipers, measuring tape, car manual, tech books, camera, storage space, zip bags, marker pen + tape. 6) You need tools, like a toolchest full of tools. And a jack. And wheel ramps. And a compressor... And you get the point... this also adds up. 7) Safety first, proper jack, ramps, stands, boots, gloves, glasses etc... 8) Modifying cars can get very complicated "Nothing bolts in, when it does bolt in it doesn't work and if it works it doesn't work properly." Generally the case, something to keep in mind when modifying something, often you are thinking you are improving it when sadly you are not. 9) You need try and have "soft hands" to be able to have a mechanical feel to using tools and parts and for things like cross tightening. 10) Awesome tools include rattle guns, penetrating spray, degreaser, dead blow hammer, pry bars, rachet spanners and more.... Well thats some early advice anyway, especially for someone thinking of starting a project car, some heads up on a good starting point...

"Nothing bolts in, when it does bolt in it doesn't work and if it works it doesn't work properly." Generally the case, something to keep in mind. Hmmm keep on looking, using ae86 struts are possible and you may be able to do a 4ag engine conversion onto a T series engine crossmember, better off asking locally as we got the K series engine crossmembers, you guys the got the T series engine crossmembers. Also you may have different 51mm struts that swap with AE86 on the bottom steering arm but not the strut tops. A K series crossmember with an engine conversion kit would work in getting the 4ag engine and gearbox in. Try Techno Toy Tuning, SQ Engineering, BRD Racing and Jordans Ke conversion kits and obviously search on here for more info... Good luck

Any motor that uses one of jordans conversion kits would be a great choice, check out his thread and see how much work he puts into these kits, its a lot! Theres the next stage of connecting everything up so look into that side as well, some motors have a lot of aftermarket adapters for this, some don't.

Yeah invert the eyes and reset rather than use lowering blocks.

Try look up the ford escort leaf to coil conversion, give you some idea of the process... I would just improve the leaf spring setup, cost wise its hard to beat!

Horses for courses. Higher octane when needed, Lower octane when needed. Higher octane is less volitile than lower octane but it works by allowing more performance without combustion problems. Most high octane modern motors have a knock sensor to allow the ignition timing to retard on lower octane fuel. Be sure to always have a new or cleaner air filter rather than a dirty or blocked one as it affects the fuel comsumption quite a bit on a factory sized filter.

I think you may be thinking of suspension bushes when people torch them out and replace with some sort of rubber compound like a sikaflex product. Check ebay often, for NOS ke1x stuff. Seems some people replace the ke1x stuff with ke2x stuff for an upgrade and avaliability of parts...

ft-86 for your mustang style solution or if you want to learn and tinker a ke70.

Kameari do datsun A series oversize valves at 38x8x103.6 and 32x8x103.6. Might be able to be used, price is up there though.

Enlarge valves? Could use bigger diameter valves and install bigger seats and deshroud chamber and port match it up if thats what you mean... Most engine shops should be able to do this, its getting the bigger valves that is generally the issue. Standard are 36x8x100 intake, 29x8x100 exhaust. So you need bigger valves, thats where the search begins...

80.5mm bore and 87.5mm stroke is fairly undersquare, i would not recommend for revs where the small capacity motors make power... Would have more torque of course so maybe forced induction by supercharger or turbo could be the go with this one...