styler

The saas ke30-ke70 boss kits don't seem to fit, the taper is too tight on the oem shaft. Its a pity as they are the better boss kit out there with 2 patterns and solid design, but yeah the nut doesnt even go halfway on when done up tight. I have bought a few over the last year hoping they would have fixed the issue but its the same problem. Tested ascross multiple listed vehicles for the boss kit. It is possible to machine the taper out but tricky and expensive if you can find someone capable of doing it. Anyone had similar issues?

You gotta go a lot bigger for any significant upgrade really and that usually involves a strut swap... There are bolt on kits but remember the stub axle and flange is very small so it may not be a good idea.

Common stainless steel alloy fasteners such as 304SS / 316SS are bad for galling, essentially the metal on metal micro welds itself on same grades, but to some degree using different grades the effect can be reduced. Not great in strength either but there are stainless alloy grades that could possibly be made and in some cases heat treated. In regular steel fasteners 4.6, 8.8, 10.9 and 12.9 are grades of strength - 8.8 with zinc coating should be fine. Torque wrench is good as well as either locktite, spring washers or antiseize pending application. Lots of older jap cars seem to use a lot of 8.8 zinc plated with one size finer thread than the std coarse and use a smaller metric head size rather than imperial. Theres a lot more to all this but thats a start anyway, hope its of some use :P

Looks like you can get adjustable dummy pushrods to dial in the length, probably going to get one and go from there.

Yeah the swipe mark on top of the valve needs to be in the middle, looks like I will check it on assembly and take action to suit.

Blanks seem scarce but looks like an abundance of pushrods in different lengths...

Else if cam blanks are available at a reasonable cost, that may be the go?

When changing to reground cams and also facing the head, what options are there with pushrods? Seems on regrinds that the base circle is reduced and so longer rods are needed, shaving the head shortens the required rod length... Have heard something about datsun a12 rods or machining down rocker towers to suit... Is there a preference with either of the above concerning geometry? Thoughts?

Try http://home.clear.net.nz/pages/phil.bradshaw/transmission.htm

You can't do a motor by halves, stages is where its at... balance.

Dcoes have reasonably large venturis and synchronous throttles as opposed to progressive throttles, synchronous can be too fast an opening for small stock capacity motors, food for thought anyway... as well as having the sidedraft clearance in the engine bay? plenty info out there...

^ Interesting, they usually are a certain angle lock between units to allow the ball to engage and this is important for operation.

Replacement units are available for most cars, adr approved etc... http://www.apvsafetyproducts.com/seat-belt-replacement-guide http://www.selectgear.com.au/products/display_Products.aspx?CategoryID=11 Repco etc can order these in.

The top struts mounts are avaliable on ebay, the next down is top hats only factory and the next rubber boot can be any boot that fits if you can't find listed aftermarket replacements.

Did have a brief read of the thread... check that the dizzy advance shaft isn't seized, that would produce normal idle but erratic higher rpm driving. Best to pull it apart and grease it up if thats the case. Else leads or condensor or coil may need replacing, not sure.

Wideband all the way, its not just the sensor but also the processing unit...

3sgte has been done in these beasts, check out http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/11909-ke-25-3sge-pics/page__hl__3sge+KE25

I think that its a possibility that constant rich conditions ie excess fuel causes them to burn out.

This is a common issue with aftermarket camber tops and binding etc... Some solutions can be fabricated up though

Link here http://www.powerapt.com/index.php

Was talking to someone about new 2 stoke motors and smartcarbs made a mention. Very interesting as some people have bike carbs on car motors, only thing is they are difficult to tune but this new smartcarb should make it very easy... Could be the go for k motors and in a range of sizes. Anyone had any experience with them?

Google NCOP for the guidelines.

A suggestion might be that of performanceforums which did a funding awareness effort where people just did a paypal contribution to the site when needed, seemed to work without committing to memberships and designated amounts so people were more willing to give at the time as needed by the forum.

There is a reasoning behind this, std flywheels use the one type and aftermarket flywheels use the other. This is due to aftermarket flywheel mounting flanges being thinner than the std flywheel and bottoming out, that's what I remember anyway last I looked...

Doing 1 layer might be difficult, there are a few sanding / stripping discs that may work but do the corners / edges by hand else it will sand through. Could always use chemical stripper or media blast the outside but it would be expensive and time consuming for a whole car.