styler

Yeah -6cc for 5k shallow dish seems familiar, instead of -8cc.

I think one major factor that is giving us the run around is measurments from pre skimmed heads and also rough syringe measurements. Need to import a cylinder head burette kit at some point...

Hey altezzaclub, I use this online calculator, just scroll down for the results once entered... http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html I think the head gasket is around 75mm for 4k std, 80.5mm for 5k? Yeah there are a few combos of k motor parts haha, trying to get the compression right for NA

There is a way to measure the space and then find rims to suit, it can take a while but its worth it. I started a writeup but its a work in progress because it took so long to explain, will see if I can find it somewhere... Most people just end up test fitting rims or asking what fits as you have done but answers will vary as will the fit in the end, not what you want really as it can get costly real quick.

Its called a leaf spring shackle, least distance is probably safest at factory spec. Are you trying to lower the car by reducing the shackle length or something?

altezzaclub is that for flat top heads? I also have figures of 36cc and 40cc for 3k / 4k flat top heads from a while back, did you measure these yourself with the ol' burette and perspex plate by any chance? I know the twin squish are much smaller with herron style pistons to suit on some 4k / some 5k, and then there's the other 5k style is shallow dish -8cc or so, not sure on head cc on it.

That is a good approach, but it's not always that easy if it needs to be passed off for engineering...

For some reason I remember the the ballast resistor coil was for startup not the points??? Basically during startup the battery was drained supplying the starter motor so much a 12V coil wouldnt fire, so a 9V coil was introduced to aid this problem. Once the motor fired up it was all 12V so the coil needed a ballast resistor to drop the 12V down a bit for the 9V coil. Hence there are 2 circuits on the ballast style setup 1) 12V bypass for startup and 2) 9V ballast for running. That's the guts of the theory anyway.... 9V coils are for ballast systems and 12V coils for non-ballast systems, not to be interchanged else the car wont start in one case or it will overheat the coil and burn out in the other case. High performance ignition systems can be used in place of the ballast system as they can overcome the low battery voltage with a low resistance coil that can fire under the lower voltage and still deliver spark. I think you connect both circuits for starting and running to this coil for installation after removing the ballast to enable startup and running functions. The coils get as low as .5 ohm

I believe they came out with both types, nippondenso or bosch and you can switch the electrical connections over as they are both internally regulated although you might want to double check that just in case. The bosch has an externally replaceable diode/brush pack which is better.

Just looks like std lowered springs and some aftermarket wheels, call your local tyre shop for the cars original wheel specs and go from there. See what other people are running to get an idea and some rims that will work.

Get a rebuild book on the motor, known as the k series yellow book. If its a standard rebuild then you should be ok but if it modified its another story, its all about getting a balanced package in the end and finding / modifying parts to suit which is half the fun and half the pain :P Check the how to build a tough k motor guide on here for some good info.

No that I know of, you have to make something up and its not always easy. Theres quite a bit of work as the seats need to be to be adr approved and the mounting need to be engineered as well as the rails and seat position left/right and forward/back should be correct, not to mention the corollas are small cars so seat height is always an issue. Check the NCOP guide of modifications on google, should have aftermarket seating guidelines there.

Ke30 to Ke70 share the same boss kit in either short or long so I would say it would change over ok.

If you are going to keep everything else stock, just hot up the 4k and convert to manual. Should be a better end result with a rebuilt motor as well... Something to keep in the options anyway :) 100hp should be relatively easy.

Rebuild 4k...

Yeah what you have is type 1 diy adjustable coilover, type 2 is a factory base height adjustable coilover and changes ride height without changing damper stroke. Its difficult to get the type 1's set up correctly with the correct components, lengths, spring rates and fabrication... and on top of that most diy camber tops or aftermarket are just as difficult as well ie don't work out the box. A solution exists of type 2 AE86 gear including camber tops from factory with maybe some additional modifications to fit it to the ke70/ae71 chassis. I believe the new NCOP allows for adjustable suspension pending specs, one spec may be the spring must remain captive at the lowest point of the bottom perch position.

Looks like a bonds cage there, not quite as bolt in as advertised but a few tricks later they go in... well made though.

Ah yeah it was quite a bit of work the old brake system, last I remember something like... Theres residual pressure valves for drums, none for disks unless master below caliper height (different psi avaliable) Something about the prop valves for front to rear bias... these can be external or may be already built into a twin master The residual pressure valves may be removable in some masters (usually drum circuits) or added externally to a circuit The twin master engages the fronts partially then rears to avoid lockup Also consider brake pedal ratios somewhere in there for non boosted, need a huge leg or bigger disc / caliper setup The caliper bore size to master bore ratio must allow to calipers to engage the pads (1 pot vs 2pot vs 4pot fluid capacities) It can get really tricky, hopes this gets you thinking but definately consult a specialist about everything first.

In all honesty I would say look for a welding course and it would mean ten times more than any welder specs, one point people seem to miss is you actually have to be able to weld before buying a welder.

Keep in mind even a 15amp compressor can paint a panel but not an entire car, spray paint booth for that ftw...

The tradetools renegade ones seem pretty good, have also used pilot as well. https://www.tradetools.com/products/HD210

Nice work tojo2 :) Have seen some sort of blown ae86 gearbox conversion by swapping the split case housing section from a ta22 but there's some trick with the front seal so it doesn't leak? Not sure if it works in reverse though, at least the shifter housing stays the same if you want the longer version. Theres 4ag, 3t and 2t version boxes and i think the 3t one has a longer shifter section but with the t series bellhousing, also the fork setup is slightly different and could be the same on 4ag, can't remember the specifics unfortunately...

There are electronic "damp valves" as such... take your pick for your own amusement...

Ah no only saas as far as I know but will chase it up...

Just tried again and got hold of tech, they reckon its not a known problem but will measure specs again next year.