styler

Hmmm I do recall there being 3 common versions in aus in rwd: T50 early 20 output spline short shifter housing - from the Ta22 celica suits 2t motor T50 mid era 22 ouput spline long shifter housing - from the T18 suits 3t motor T50 late model 22 output spline long shifter housing - from the AE86 suits 4ag Now I think the centre housing section could be the same but they do have different bellhousings and shifter extensions to suit the various motors and gearstick housings for different cars. May remember more later but its a start, some aftermarket close ratio gearsets still are avaliable.

Yeah its really the fact of trying to find one in good condition for a decent price to be honest, I found more vans with them still attached but then having to pay the price for the whole vehicle. Often people already have a 4k to start so its money saved. As for modifying them that's another story for another time :)

Some good advice in here as usual :) An engine swap is seen as an easy way to make your car go faster when you put your foot down. So at first people think well sweet lets just go get a more powerful motor and swap it over, just like that. But it's not that easy unfortunately! If it's your first car and you want to learn and play with cars as an interest then I would rebuild a standard motor and just learn how it all works, maybe some basic upgrades if the rest of the car is standard ie brakes and suspension. Later down the line do suspension and brakes. Then do an engine swap with the matching driveline upgrade. My advice is don't try get a 5k, I have tried and you are better off with the 4k for a few reasons, one is they are getting difficult to find in any decent condition. In a nutshell playing with cars is time, money and effort. You are going to need these resources to turn a cheap car into something better. Try think of an end goal of what you want to achieve and work backwards from there, it makes the process much easier and people will be able to help you a whole lot more to make it all happen. For instance if you want a motor swap, get a listed kit off ke conversions as he has been great with making up ke motor swap kits. That's just one part of the end goal, maybe work out what you want overall when its all fully done.

The factory pushrod valvetrain is known to be quite a good rev limiter by floating apart at high rpm or you could always rely on the factory dizzy points to bounce around... Not good for the motor and upgrading can see you get up 8000rpm using lots of modifications, but as power/rpm increases the size of the powerband size decreases...

Often there's a few brands of the same car manual, the manufacturer usually does multiple ones (motor, body and electrical) which can be expensive to get them all. The single aftermarket manual usually has the more common stuff in it from all areas but they can focus differently on areas, best get a few aftermarket ones to start off as they are cheap and more common. So if one isn't great in one area, the other may be much better. There really is so much info in manuals, its the way to go. Oh and an mains powered electric rattle gun and a penetrating spray go a long way, days of trying to clamp stuff and use a breaker bar are over, just make sure you get matching impact sockets to suit, long ones seem more useful. Good advice above, the front hubs have a press in cap which needs to be levered / tapped off gently, remove split pin and undo the nut holding the hub on. Regrease as advised with high temp bearing grease. Then retorque the nut the spec with a torque wrench, its a specific rating and has to be done to that spec. Always use a new split pin on reinstall. On the drums, often tapping the drum all round with a soft hammer and putting some penetraing spray on the hub spigot / drum hole breaks the rust that seizes them on. Then wind in some bolts bit by bit to release that drum off as parrots advised, do it evenly and slowly else they will strip out. There is a brake drum adjusting tool, made to shape and cheap, beats trying to bend the tip of a hardened screwdriver. And yeah, vac that dust out safely, do not blow it out.

There is a toyota k series motor manual, try ebay.

What rods and pistons would work?

Lucky the trees didn't get you! Those lower radiator support sections are also avaliable on ebay as 2 pieces to weld together and then back onto the rails.

Hmmm try a suspension rebuild shop, at least they may know or have a catalogue for rebuild kits. Not sure on the "Lefty" steering boxes, maybe try ask brdracing.com A great improvement to a steering box is rack and pinion, the good news is it has been done on ke2x with success, the bad news is that it's a fair bit of work.

With rings, get a catalogue and cross reference the dimensions to the same spec. Best chance of finding some better rings...

The ke55/ke70 girlock calipers aren't too bad, not high performance but a nice design with many pad options. There is a conversion for early ke2x onwards but its not an ideal conversion in my opinion, I have done it but didn't use it. Seems people use ke2x struts in ke1x for added options, best check it out else full custom setup.

Hmmm I remember there was Bi-Metal and Tri-Metal Bearings last I looked, ACL bearings were good but no more, would also suggest NDC. With boost don't worry about bearings, worry about pistons and other turbo related issues like timing and compression etc. With motors they should run on an oil surface not a bearing surface, have a look at hydrodynamic lubrication, your clearances, oil weight and oil temp.

No unfortunately you can't just get any diff with the appropriate ratio and use it. For a number of reasons. Think about size, weight, stud pattern, brakes, handbrake and lsd options as well as the ratio. That is assuming you want something that works well. I would suggest to have a look at some diff conversions that people have already done sucessfully, it runs through the process and cost for their application. Generally the more power, the bigger the diff.

Super mad, glad it runs on all 4! :thumbsup:

There are a couple, only a couple of 4x114.3 pcd later model rims around 2000 onwards. Not sure on offset but most are 14 or 15 inch, might have to do a bit of a search. Other options include cheap steel rims that can be supplied blank or drilled to suit, the drifters use these.

Pure porn. Muchas Gracias!

Some more specialized suspension places can bend struts around 1 deg around the base, any more would be cut and weld base to suit. They usually do it to correct bent struts but sometimes for more camber for modified cars, its not an ideal solution so check with the experts first.

Get a standard factory wheel, ie stock rim and stock tyre fully inflated. Measure the "Backspace" and compare to your new wheels. Easy done with 2 metal rulers, one horizontially across the back of the stock tyre and another going vertically down to the mounting flange, measure from mounting flange to bottom of horizontal ruler. Record this number in mm. Also measure tyre to strut clearance on a mounted wheel as from factory for added clearance, you do need that clearance or close to it as wheel flex in motion.

Yes the TE27, ie the top 20 series corolla had very similar front struts to the AE86 and there is a lot of AE86 modifications and aftermarket gear that can be looked at. The AE86 struts are 51mm which is a common strut size, some coronas and celicas had the same 51mm tube, different flange, stub axle, brakes and steering arms. For historic rules, either genuine TE27 stuff or using the cheaper and better AE86 stock or aftermarket suspension might pass. With AE86 struts, there are steering arms that work perfectly from the original TE27, they are rare though. There are also other steering arms that can work with some work with other struts, use some searching and see. The best longer LCA that is the closest fit was the MX62 cressida last I remember, with all the mounting holes and all (Not sure if MX32 is the same LCA?). The rear end is another story, maybe another time.

Ok. Think of the original rims and tyres. Then compare this to the new rim and tyres. The new setup offset is more positive, the rims are wider and the tyres are wider. It all adds up to a lot. The way to put on wider rims and wider tyres is to make sure the overall tyre diameter is similar and that the rim offset is set further outwards from the strut, ie less positive. Wheels flex in motion so you will need some clearance between tyre and strut. This all affects suspension geometry and too much can have bad handling effects. There are rule limits for registered cars.

Unfortunately its not that simple, even if it was there are current engineering modifications that are superior to these older methods. Wet struts aren't too bad, they just aren't gas charged and a bit leaky these days :) You can't just run springs from another car, see above and making standard struts into DIY coilovers is difficult due to travel. Look at how many damper inserts people have tried to use its crazy. Have you looked at the NCOP? That has rules and regulations for modifications in street cars and the Engineer will use this to check before its gets passed for a mod plate to allow rego.

People want a bit more range these days... A: Not captive = Not good (Zip ties will break eventually) B: Some inserts for 48mm but 51mm has better range of inserts C: AE86 struts could swap in, check first. D: AE86 aftermarket coilover suspension full kit, check first. There are 2 types of coilovers, standard adjustment (travel reducing) and base height adjustable (travel stays the same). Standard struts are difficult to DIY coilover due to damper travel, aftermarket base height adjustable don't have this problem.

The proper way to do it, by the time you need a real harness is to mount it to the harness bar in your cage. Rear parcel shelf could easily move in a crash and tighten / loosen your harness. Mounting to the rear seat belt bolts is almost a perfect solution but they could change position in a crash and the bad angle will roll your shoulders very badly under tension. My theroy is If you need a harness then you need a cage to mount it to. The harness bar can be in the main hoop or between the rear stays in a full cage. Half cage is only a ROPS. Check with the relevant regulations first for your application.

Theres 2 models of diffs: The Aus diffs are the Aus Borg Warner rear loading centres, no housing The Jap diffs have the Jap front loading centre in a complete housing. There are 2 diff widths and pcd's The ke2x has 1320mm diff drum face to face measurement (4x110mm pcd) The ke3x has the 1355mm diff drum face to face measurement (4x114.3mm pcd) Not sure on interchangability but someone mentioned cut down axles of the same model would work, most likely same model with different type of width cut down to suit, maybe some research could be worthy as last i looked the 4x110mm pcd flange is too small to redrill to 4x114.3mm pcd flange.

Indeed with an straight engine swap, but as an engine conversion I'm sure it would be fine for engineering as long as brakes and suspension match those models. Check with engineer as you suggest.