styler

Yeah rn25 and maybe some other earlier hilux's are 1370mm but so old I doubt you would find one in any sort of useable form. Also consider lsd's and stud pattern which will be your next issue. For that hp maybe the skyline diff r31 as it has lsd options and 114.3x4 pcd. Apparently you shorten the longer side and use the axle from another r31 diff shorter side to fit. Is this road, track, drag or burnout?

Yeah the aftermarket t series lsds are cheap new in zenki and kouki... Check there could be 2 types of ta22 diffs, a d series and a t series...

Its complicated, you have to understand how oils are made and go from there... it certainly takes a while. Whats the motors recommended oil? What oil temps are you getting?

+1 for the above Also remember bigger wheels add height to the car, something to keep in mind when lowering.

Yeah if it doesn't foul or burn up its good to go! Running from cold to hot plugs is the safe way of finding out :)

What you want to do a on a worked motor is find the correct plug to suit, the plugs trap heat to burn off deposits so a standard plug works in a standard motor. When you increase the motors performance the combustion chamber temperature goes up and you use a colder plug so the plug will operate at the correct temperature. Its all in the plugs trap area, its bigger for hotter and smaller for colder, the rest of the plug is the same. Hot burns off deposits, too hot breaks the plug down Cold keeps the plug together, too cold causes fouling from deposits Best to buy 2 heat ranges colder from standard using a basic cheap plug and go from cold to hot until the plug stops fouling. Then buy your fancy electrode style plugs if you like or replace the basic ones more often. The shim and facing thing may refer to spark plug indexing, where you buy a set of shims to allow all the spark plugs to face in one direction to improve performance. The shims just allow indexing, the extra height spacing is irrelevant. May improve by a small amount in some applications but often dismissed in lower hp builds. I prefer ngk over bosch, personal thing I guess!

Yeah a picture of the shifter section usually can be pretty helpful to identify the box

This is a thrust bearing carrier for ae86 http://www.hachiroku.com.au/forums/showthread.php?6857-t50-thrust-bearing-carrier

Hmmm... I think you need a thrust bearing carrier to slide on that section which has a thrust bearing pressed onto it. Then the clutch fork sits behind the carrier and pushes it to engage the bearing with the clutch fingers. You may find second hand or aftermarket carrier to suit ae86. Some people convert to a hydraulic throw out bearing which replaces the carrier with a new setup, names like tilton, howe and some saab setup are worth a google.

Maybe just do up the k motor, will be fun... and less expensive... food for thought anyway!

Read through this, some info on the toyota A series that could be of use http://www.toyotanat...-swap-help.html Also wiki http://en.wikipedia....Toyota_A_engine for the hybrid 7age build which is a combination of 4age with 7afe.

Hmmm ke50, cool and rare car. Kinda like an early version of a T18 in some ways... I'm going to try and be helpful here, I would recommend you use a motor that someone has successfully swapped already, I don't think 5a-fe's are a common swap for a number of good reasons. Plenty of swaps around that are a better idea. People have converted fwd 4age's to rwd 4age's but it takes a few bits to get it done and its not cheap...

Check http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/70004-big-parts-clear-out-ke15-to-ke70-trd-to-jun-all-ke/page__st__15__p__687470#entry687470

Nice buy with the welder, a few things I learnt along the same path might be of some use... The little bottles are good for a one off job but its worth getting the big bottle if you are going to learn as the gas goes pretty quick... best to use with no wind conditions so you can turn it down as much as possible. BOC can supply these in an E size which is pretty big for something like $100 a fill but you have to rent the bottle as well for around $100 a year or so. Don't go gasless, the wire is 4x the price and its not great to use... Grab a good automatic mask, they are really worth it and a pair of mig pliers. Other handy bits are a 4 inch grinder with cut/flap/grind/wire discs and long welding gloves/shirt/pants/boots/sunscreen etc A few clamps and magnetic squares can also prove useful when tacking the piece if needed. Tig for sheet metal, mig for thicker steel/aluminum and arc using stainless rods is one way of doing things that works well. Best advice is to practice on scrap long before you weld the actual piece and get those settings and technique down first... Distortion is a bitch... tacking, preheating and stitch welding can reduce this for less hammer and grinding afterwards. Most thicker stuff can be welded by cutting a V into the joint to increase heat penetration. Make sure you get a good ground clamp on the piece as well to avoid problems, clean the weld area with the grinder so its clean and anti spatter spray is good stuff for easy spatter cleanup. You have to practice the motion of the weld path first before you pull the trigger, it can take a while to suss it through... Good luck, welds go from birdshit, shit, pretty shit, looks like a weld, I think its welded, average, half decent and proper :P

Just some advice, don't use any sort of race pads on a street car as they don't stop cold, sports pads should be ok though.

You can have a look at niceproducts for wheel nuts, get them through repco

Hmmm maybe just get dimensions and compare? If its the same OD and ID and roughly same width then could be a winner...

Word of advice just check hydrogen embrittlement on NCOP

Its difficult to do precisely with your average tools which is probably why no one has really bothered but there's this little tool called an anglecube that is a magnetic tool to find the angle as you describe, just attach to strut housing then attach to hub flange and work out the difference to get the angle. Would recommend to buy one and have a walk around the wreckers or something.

Check that gearstick position, I believe the "R31 Stumpy" box is what you would need to bring the position forwards...

Heres the link for conversion kits and some tech notes: http://www.rollaclub...ke70-ae71-ae86/

S13 motor and driveline is just hectic work but there is a few people that are in the process of converting the ke2x rear end to independent suspension (IRS). don't worry about fitting it, its more the suspension geometery and shortening it professionally to suit ke2x that will be the difficult part. Why not just keep the 2TG and you could fit a driveline to suit? S13 gearbox wont bolt on to 2TG and an adapter bellhousings for this don't exist, but you can get a bigger W series box behind them by using a 3tgteu bellhousing or whole 3tgteu W gearbox, only thing is they are rare and do fetch a few hundred or more if you can find one. There is a particular 1Gx series bellhousing that fits and works, just have to sort out a clutch to suit. There are off the shelf clutch for T series flywheel to W series box, hint...have a look around. There is a guy on here that does engine conversion kits if you do go the S13 to ke2x conversion, I think he has them for the CA18 and SR20 motors. The tunnel on a ke2x may not fit a nissan gearbox without cutting out and fitting a bigger tunnel, so double check this. I would say run a W55 box, G series bellhousing, Clutch to suit, Diff = Toyota T or G, Nissan R31, Volvo, etc

Interesting about the headlight part, the only difference I saw was definately in the width of the slots, Early ke2x was narrow slots and Late ke2x was wider slot..

You have to cut the fronts as the front of the car is quite a bit narrower than the rear, the rears you can roll and pump the lip out up to a point or go all the way and cut and shut the twin skin to suit. Internal clearance can also be an issue, check lock to lock on fronts and rears around corners no scrubbing is a ballpark indication its in the clear for that rim/tyre combo.

The current NCOP guidelines are listed under these codes... LK8 LK9/10 http://www.infrastru...1Jan2011_v2.pdf