styler

haha fwd to rwd antics...

"you can weld stainless steel to some other types of steel with varying rates of success. you can't weld aluminium to steel very well. stainless is the type of steel alloy with active part chromium added so can be welded to other steel alloys with varying rates of success. i like looking at the oxidation of the more reactive steel and the less reactive steel that occurs when exposed to a corrosive environment."

if they are 43.5mm front inserts like ae86 then id look at what the ae86 guys use, theres a whole thread on it somewhere... http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=299

http://www.kameariusa.com/2TG_Piston.php

hey cam besides fitting on the ends, you need to get a damper to suit your cars ride height so the travel is correct on compression and rebound. easily done by measurements on your car and then check out a catalogue or ask jason at kyb or terry at road and track for a suitable replacement. also sometimes the replacement damper bushing on the bottom can be pressed out and another bushing one substituted for the right bolt size. on rears only need to measure compression and extension on the damper and subtract the lowered amount of your car from each to end up with a shock that has factory compression and rebound travel, so the piston sits halfway in the damper body. The more it lowered your car the more important this is but some people don't even bother with it but its up to you. and as long as its roughly within +/- 10mm each way or so should be alright i would say? then remember to match you damper rates to your spring rate so they work together, say on your car if its std rear spring pack a replacement damper from a smaller car and if it has extra leafs a damper from a heavier car. on a side note for the front dampers the above applies and the damper body length and diameter are important to fit the inside the strut tube, on lowered cars must be within a captive range to stop the springs falling out and on some very low cars may need the strut tube housing cut down as it will restrict travel upwards. also i believe you can cut down a front damper shaft and rethread it at a desired point along the shaft to suit your application if it helps.

also all factory blow off valves are recirculating / plumb back as far as i know

i think modifying them by cutting them down is a grey area but replacing them with a shorter one is fine, most are two hole which can be easily drilled out to fit your hole spacing. a trip to the wreckers would have it sorted...

haha bloody good idea in theory! but philbey is right about it being a problem, basically with any two metals together the more reactive one corrodes hence why you get corrosion at the meeting point of the two and why they will pair a lot of reactive metal with another small amount of sacrificial metal that is more susceptible to corrosion in its enviroment, eg mild steel parts having a more reactive zinc plating or mild steel is hot dipped galvanized in the more reactive zinc, and boats have a zinc sacrificial anode so it corrodes instead of the hull and can be replaced as needed.

nothing beats the trade tools small force kit, ended up buying one for home and travel use as it uses the same spanners / socket sets / screwdrivers i bought previously for work but also includes allen keys, all sorts of pliers / multigrips / cutters / shifter and a impact screw driver. it has long series sockets and both metric in a comprehensive range and imperial in a shorter range. comes in a 3 drawer smooth drawer tool chest with top compartment which i added rags, locktite, hammer, zip ties, wd40 and duct tape to finish it off. has life time warranty and cheap individual replacement parts should you lose anything or want to add extra sizes or tool parts. also comes with moulded foam trays to keep things in place and save kicking the thing over in a rage when you can't find a certain size socket in the mess... its certainly quality gear for the money if you keep it clean and look after it. seen similar sets from other brands at $1000+ and couldnt resist this one at $380 or so, absolute bargain, took 1 year to pay itself off from time and money saved going to fetch and drop off my original tool set!

toyota t series manual: flywheel to crankshaft 7.5 -10.5 kg-m / 55 - 75 ft-lb clutch to flywheel - not specified

well gregories manual 1970 - 1978 ke corollas states: toe in: 0.08 - 0.24 inch early 0.04 - 0.20 inch late caster: 15 min - 45 min early 1 deg 40 min - 2 deg 20 min late camber: 1 deg 30 min - 2 deg 30 min 20 min - 1 deg 20 min king pin inclination: 6 deg - 7 deg early 7 deg 20 min - 8 deg 25 min late turning angle: inner wheel 37 deg - 38 deg early outer wheel 32 deg - 33 deg early inner wheel 38 deg 30 min - 41 deg 30 min late outer wheel 30 deg - 36 deg late :S

to upgrade the easiest way recore using 3 cores or custom 3 cores not a bigger radiator.

good work there, all you need to do is think about the performance and reliability factors, with a small power motor such as the k series you can work them to produce almost double the naturally aspirated power factor in response and hp quite cheaply but the more its worked the more its undriveable for daily comfort. you can use forced induction to a k series motor but only in mild form, med to high power they generally become unreliable on stock internals but are cheap to replace as a block, or use forged internals. then theres motor conversions which are med to high performance in response / hp from factory but are quite a bit of work to fit into the car. also they can be worked on top of that to extreme performance - at a cost of money, time and research with mandatory skills, tools and knowledge. I think the lads have given you good advice, buy a corolla manual for your car, buy the engine manual for your engine and read these over to see what is what and how things work. - then read the whole faq and tough k series motor guide to get educated on the performance aspects of a motor build. - then work out what car build you want and how you are going to get there if you can. - then ask questions about uncertainties and evolve your plan until you are happy - get resources to do it - away you go - and back you come - and away you go again (repeat the above a few times, we all do) - done and cheering one critical factor you may have overlooked which happens to be the most important factor in engine builds is... a balanced package, this means all your components and systems are matched with each other to work together. no single component can make you engine perform better, its the combination of all matching components that allows an engine to perform better. which means the more power you want the more the components must be closely matched to each other to work together at that level, which means you have to do lots more research about different components and how they work to get a balanced build that delivers the power they way you want. and on a finishing note... hp is not everything, engine response, handling and braking often beat higher hp cars :y:

tylerrice mate, you are like a fat kid in a candy shop! seriously, people on here are more than polite with you and you need to show some respect and return the gratitude without wasting everyones time they have kindly given to you... you can't have v8 sound and flutter and turbo and lumpy cam and carbs and and and... all of that for a quick visit to the local shops with a few hundred bucks and install it in 2 hours with your local mate jimmy who owns a shifter and some random sockets... it doesnt even make effen sense! so... work with us on here, you obviously have a passion :) some basics of building a car 101: you: money skills tools knowledge time the car: condition bought quality of build car use - street/track/drag/drift performance reliability cost that is a good start to the basics of it all... once you answer the above criteria we can at least understand you and offer some guidence in the right direction, its not easy, its not quick and its not cheap to do it right... its is a pain at times, can be time consuming and costs a moderate amount if you educate yourself to a reasonable degree, search for answers first and ask a few questions on forums and you will slowly get into it and learn as you save up and work on the car. else you can go out a buy a car outright thats reasonably quick, a cheap jap import or old v8 pending driving laws in your state.

nice to see the lightened flywheel worked out well, they are a really good mod but id recommend a scatter shield of some sorts over the bellhousing for a heavily lightened cast wheel at high rpm as they honestly do fail and you don't want to teach you legs that lesson!

use 3tc pistons with 3tc crank at calculated compression ratios desired, do your own compression ratios after machining to calculate what you need...

it is quite cheap, they are long out of print as far as i know and finding them is a rarity, theres no document version as far as i know and doing a proper one would take a fair bit of effort... and then you have to print it out as well, its not like your going to get cleaned up after every step to go in the house and read the next one off the pc...

dude you really need a manual, its a maintenance requirement for basic work as most cars are not complex but feature different components and systems that are simple step by step processes, its irrelevant to skill or experience, more of a easy way to do it in the right order and make sure its done properly :)

its about $80 if you take the bare head in yourself at most auto engineering shops.

pros: cheap effective cons: not a proper mechanical solution dangerous in wet illegal

hey i saw your mazda rims there and i have a spare set for free if you want them?

although a lip is generally frowned upon in flow when port matching i found it interesting that a reverse lip can aid flow eg a step down used in exhaust extractors or the like... so not every lip is bad :jamie:

iv heard the argument both ways... its bad: its bad because the turbo is spooled up and feeding air into the intake and the intake shuts off with the air still feeding in from the turbo, the air builds up pressure in the intake and causes a surge of back pressure to flow back into the turbo, against the flow of the impeller causing it to have a higher load on it, and it slows down as it is no longer under power from the exhaust to counteract this back pressure, although if it was under power from the exhaust it would be worse. its not bad: its not bad because impellers are designed for load, what are they doing before this surge? sitting around? no they are taking load pushing air into the intake, so what if they get a pressure against the blades, thats how they work in the first place to push air forwards into the intake. once the intake shuts the exhaust no longer powers the turbo and it doesnt have load on the impeller trying to push air at full boost, the air builds up pressure in the intake and causes a surge of back pressure to flow back into the turbo, against the flow of the impeller causing it to have a higher load on it, and it slows down as it is no longer under power from the exhaust to counteract this back pressure, although if it was under power from the exhaust it would be worse. i think it depends on a few things... levels of pressure on feed and surge rates of pressure buildup and surge buildup periods of pressure and surge turbo impeller materials, design and strength turbo impeller rotational inertia gas volume and speed characteristics of gas flow and turbo operation my theory is that if the two levels / rates / periods of the exhaust unloading the turbo and the surge loading it back up are similar or within range of the impeller strength then its not a problem, i think this makes sense pending gas flow and turbo operation but i may have missed something... ...yeah like in the end if you believe its a problem then run a bov, if you don't then don't run a bov, end of story... :P edit - hmmm was relating to bov surge but seems like its another discussion entirely... interesting though

1. space (limiting factor) 2. type of filter (some filtering recommended) 3. length (rpm range) 4. entry shape (sharp or rounded) 5. material (steel or aluminum) 6. price - plenty of ram tubes/velocity stacks avaliable oem and aftermarket for all sizes. space is the biggest factor by far especially when running filters and it is recommended to run them, also you need apparently about 1 inch clear space in front of the entry for flow into the mouth which makes even less space... filters also can be mesh screens or big oiled socks or paper side filters or foam oiled type all with different sizes and filtering qualities, some are rubbish others great, best ask around and consider the space factor. i would run fiters even if its just mesh at least ie cut squares of certain filtering materials, layer them and rubber band them on or buy them ready made all integrated as a unit. length relates to rpm range, as mentioned... longer is more torquey lower rpm and shorter is for more power high rpm i believe... entry shape has been argued both ways, oem its sharp and aftermarket usually round so i think theres not much of a noticeable difference, shape is probably more related in ease of manufacturing but is seems argued that round would have superior flow but I'm not sure. either way its much better than no velocity stack at all as that just leaves a sharp edge but some people run them like that. material oem is steel and gets surface rust, aftermarket usually stainless or aluminum. price ranges from about $100 to $400 a set of 4, plenty types / sizes avaliable.

personally i would buy an old big sedan for towing and save your money or put a better motor in the ke70 for the trouble its worth doing a conversion?