styler

rb30 is a long motor - inline 6, and its front end heavy for a corolla. so it would be great for an unregistered drag car with a big laggy turbo or a dyno queen but not allowed on the street and would plough into the first corner on a race track. so it really depends on what you want the car for? yeah turbo inline 4's are a better bet, like the ca18det or sr20det as has been said.

theres many ways to skin a cat especially if the cat is your wallet, when you have found the end to a piece of string you will know how much an engine conversion will cost you.

gearbox gears for a single gear set are $600 and about 6 months wait last i heard, so much for my custom ratio box lol, i think ill put up with standard gear ratios!

$5000 to $50000... from basic diy to workshop full rebuild and restore. or buy one already done as redwarf suggests at half the price? look at similar cars for sale, they are sure to tell you the costs involved building the thing, try toymods as well.

the aus s12 (silvia) forums would be the place to look or ask: aus s12 silvia forums they convert from ca20 to ca18det quite regularly

yeah its interesting all right... not particually a fan but it looks like a quality build at least, very unusual look for a rolla!

Eleanor buildup link

15's aren't so common but still some oem / aftermarket made 14's plenty oem/ aftermarket made

budget? skills? tools? quality of build? upgrading driveline? restoring car as well? suspension? bodywork / rust / paint / interior? $5000 - $30000...

never heard of re finning but a recore is about $200 for a 2 row and $300 for a 3 row. i would use a radiator flush and let it sit in the radiator for a while then flush out with loads of water, probably not much else you could do really? pressure test is also a good idea, shouldnt cost much. a new 2 row standard replacement ke20 radiator is $220 or so.

id say a turbo 3tc might be a budget option, its been done many times and there are plenty of aftermarket parts. also t series motors have been put in quite a few ke corollas so it all works well. try toyota 3tc.com for ideas and brdracing.com for parts. keep in mind carby turbo is a temperamental and fiddly setup being a compromise of factors most times, but if you want it cheap power its one option, that or the nos option really fall into the budget power category.

hey fair enough ;) seems like you have a good start, motor options are all there: mazda rotary: 12a, 13b, 13bt toyota 4ag: 16v, 20v, 4agze, 4agte toyota: 3sge, 3sgte, 1gge, 1ggte, 1ggze nissan: ca18, ca18det, sr20, sr20det, fj20, fj20det holden: v6 theres some ideas anyway, all the above have been done before as far as i know. all involve quite a bit of work and patience but once done have great results.

whats it with this budget drifting craze! its expensive to get a car to do what it wasnt meant to do from factory, so a old corolla drifting is going to cost a lot or you are very good at modifying cars and have lots of time, knowledge and tools. its going to cost a couple of grand which you might as well buy a used drifter to thrash around on and hack up that has already been set up for drifting and can actually drift around corners to some degree. else if it must be the ke55 corolla id say bigger k motor, weld diff, change diff ratio, get skinny tyres on rear, good tyres up front, big cam, bigger carby, clean up head, mild port, extractors, exhaust, remove / hack up interior, add leafs to rear, lower harder coils up front, new dampers, race seat and harness, half cage, surge tank, motor, gearbox and diff service, longer lower control arms, new stiffer bushes all round, new decent brake pads and shoes, very good handbrake setup, and thats about it or so... theres a few grand and a few months of weekend work if you have tools and know what you are doing. you'll need more than a shifter, a screwdriver and a 6 pack to make it happen. heres a plan, take it to the track stock standard and try to drift... and the only drift you will get is that it wont slide sideways unless its on the roof through the first corner, feel free to stick your hand out the window for extra style points though. when you come to a stop and are the right way up consider your options again. (note: disclaimer - do not attempt the above)

3tc pistons used in a 2tg hybrid / 3tg need valve reliefs flycut to suit.

put in a big bottle of nos and serious button as above

heres the special seal puller i was thinking of:

there is a crank seal tool that makes it much easier, its not a pick / seal puller, i'll see if i can find it on the net somewhere...

lucky to get that one out :) good work on the screw extractor!

carter or pierburg or facet brand low pressure high volume type about 5 psi cost is around $100 - $160. facet brand i can't recommend using but it does exist.

haha only happens if you park your panda ae86 outside a real tofu shop :y: on the subject of camshafts and turbos... bigger camshafts and high static compression ratio are a typical NA build not turbo, recently higher compression turbo builds have been made but its not really that common yet except for low boost oem or unstreetable big power builds. i would imagine the bigger the cams and bigger the turbo you go would make it very unstreetable with turbo lag combined with the camshaft power band moving way up in the rev range and the idle being turned far up. bigger camshafts have a longer duration - they open earlier and close later, so you need a high static compression ratio because the bigger cams lose more of the compression and you need the dynamic compression ratio to end up somewhere usable. thats why the bigger the cam the higher the static compression ratio, so the dynamic ratio ends up about the same generally. static compression is engine volume with piston at bottom / piston at top ( / = divide) dynamic compression ratio is the same but now with the camshaft opening and closing and letting the fuel mixture enter and escape as the piston moves up and down affecting the volumes measured.

check bill sherwoods page

its more difficult with with twin carbs as far as i know, you need connect the 4 carb intake runners to a common line and run a pressure damper to get a decent reading, we discussed it on toymods, do a search there.

yeah its going to be under ncop which is avaliable online to check, unless you can do it in 2 weeks lol.

if i replace pads i remove some fluid as i backflows when pads are pushed back, and start the bleed from furthest wheel from master. then you can bleed using do 2 man method - don't let master run out and you need to push the pedal before opening the nipple and close before pedal hits floor to avoid a clean feed with no air as well as keeping the line immersed under fluid to stop air getting in and flowing up the line. or use a 1 man brake bleeding kit - the good one with a clear tube and a black rubber cylinder end on it not the rubbish bottle one. don't let master run out and just crack nipple just enough to allow pedal to move easily, no need to open or close nipple due to 1 way valve and no need to immerse in fluid either due to same 1 way valve action, just put in tin and pump pedal until done. also in newer cars if you run out of fluid in the master it causes air pockets which have to be taken in to a shop to get sucked out with some vacuum bleed or something from what i have heard, so be careful with that. always take hand brake off as it sometimes causes problems and chock car and most important pump the pedal to get the brakes back (fills brake slaves up) before you drive off :jamie:

r31 diff is a bit overkill but cheap in the end, ke30 / ke55 is 1355mm wheel mounting face to wheel mounting face. also its 4 pinion gears in the skylines and 2 pinion gears in the pintaras, they are the small gears that do the differential action between side gears sometimes called spider gears. the borg warner lsd found in r31's falcons and commodores is a cone type lsd not typical clutch pack, its works ok - a bit harsh in engagement motion, not so great on engagment force and wears out more quickly but is common and cheap as far as i know.