styler

^ lol i completely forgot about stud pattern...

jap ie banjo = front loading diff centre (nuts at front of diff housing) aus ie borg warner = rear loading diff centre (nuts at rear of diff housing) i wouldnt particually bother with swapping drums even if it can be done, its probably more hassle than its worth in your case.

sounds interesting... try a book called 4 stroke performance tuning by A.Graham Bell, besides all the other great info, he has a large chapter on carbies, how they work and how they can be modified to suit different applications etc...

ke25 = 1320mm wheel mounting face to wheel mounting face ke55 = 1355mm wheel mounting face to wheel mounting face you can do a ke55 diff with std wheels in a ke25, or maybe a bit wider wheels or more neg offset but not a lot. considered using ke55 axles in ke25, the faq had some info on this, as its easier than swapping diffs if stud pattern change is what you are after?

haha oh well...

something different... boostcruising 3rz turbo ke38 wagon

tuning and flywheel probably best first options as mentioned.

the 2 litre 2tg, aka 3tg hybrid, is a combination of 2tg motor and 3tc crank and matching 89mm 3tc oversize pistons. it works out at 89mm bore x 78mm stroke = 1940cc and is called the "2 Litre". in the t series blocks - 2t, 2tg, 3t, 3tgteu families: interchangable crankshafts at 70mm for 2t and 78mm for 3t you must use matching crank and pistons though: 2t crank + 2t pistons 3t crank + 3t pistons 3t pistons in mm: 85 - cast 86 - cast or forged 87 - forged 88 - forged 89 - forged 90 - forged 85 for NA 86 cast for NA 86 forged for high boost or NA 87 for high boost or NA 88 for med boost or NA 88.5 med boost or NA 89 NA (suitable block recommended or liners) 90 NA (suitable block required or liners) 90 grout filled block for high boost drag (liners) at 2 litre or similar you retain most of the oversquare characteristic of the motor bore/stroke ratio which is often attributed to the how the motor revs and the power curve, to a degree... oversquare is for revs and undersquare is for torque. 3t crank has 8 counterweights and as such is heavier in weight and in rotational inertia. 2t crank has 4 counterweights and as such is lighter in weight and in rotational inertia.

norbies axle database - toymods check this out if you havent seen it before, its a work in progress of toyota diffs, awesome if you need specs :P also measuring diffs if you want to be spot on its best to go yourself as wreckers are about plus / minus an inch for accuracy last time i tried... i used two short steel rulers across the wheel mounting faces, a friend and a decent measuring tape to measure between the rulers and it will be to the mm or close to.

remember rwd e series doesnt have factory or aftermarket (yet) lsd as far as i know?? not sure on ratios but the rally boys seem to like them, maybe they lock or run minispools / full spools in them for rallies? tarago f series is very popular as its quite long and suitable to be shortened, with thick axles and big bearings etc... its the last of the toyota diffs that has 114.3 and 60mm spigot with thick axles going from memory before 5 stud comes in which is the later f series? f series has a few factory ratios and lsds available in aftermarket helical and clutch type versions and maybe more.

try borrow or buy a manual, thats probably the best way as theres diagrams and tutorials for everything... there are particular types of systems for ke rollas ie jap/aus or early/late etc etc the brake chapter in the manual is 20 pages long unfortunately... else id write it up here to help you suss it out.

handbrake operates rear mechanical system on brakes foot pedal operates hydraulic single system on all brakes or hydraulic dual circuit system on all brakes don't know whats causing your problem, drums too worn, shoes too worn, incorrect adjustment, incorrect gaps, too much heat, warped or out of round drums, cables incorectly adjusted, wrong cylinders ie id diameter too big, adjuster if you have one not working... ??

yeah rt104 early model has t series, late rt104 model could have f series? aus spec was borg warner? jap spec was t or later maybe f series? i pulled out one of these t series diffs i think they are 1440mm wheel mounting face to wheel mounting face or maybe 1410mm at second guess, might see if i have the specs written down somewhere... you would have to move the leaf mounts if they are not spot on though, even 10mm out will flog out the bushes over time. and you can sacrifice the new leaf mounts when cutting off to avoid damaging the new housing and then sacrifice the old diff when cutting the old mounts to weld to the new diff so you end up with well cut mounts on an undamaged diff housing if you get my theory. check shock mounting too, the early t series comes with lower plates that have a shock mount on them which may line up if you get stuck?

hmmm sounds interesting... not sure but heres a few ideas belt might be stretched or stuffed even if its only 40k tensioner may be stuffed or not run properly when running teeth on cam wheel/crank pully probably unlikely to be worn too much valve springs stock could be a problem if the cam is much more aggressive than stock, you may be getting some sort of valve float causing a slack in the timing system which may allow the belt enough slack or shock to jump a tooth or two. the bigger your cam the more problems you would have with it too, especially if reground with a reduced base circle instead of hardfacing and reground but that probably affects direct cam lobe drive on bucket setup more than a indirect cam on rocker arm setup. belt running true / cam straight also sounds fine. heap of revs = valve float, especially with stock springs even more with old factory ones as they lose their tension over the years, with a cam a bit more aggressive i would at least use new standard springs and a with a cam a lot more aggressive i would use new stiffer springs. tappets i would say old valve springs will sag / reduce tension especially after heated operation may stay a bit lower than when been sitting cold?? id call the cam place you got it from for clearance advice or any cam place really for some sort of direction on it.

budget skills tools timeframe car build - street/race/drag/drift/sleeper workshop rates quality of conversion restore car at same time rust modified or original type build paint/wheels/interior gearbox/diff/lsd brakes suspension steering lowering 4ag rwd conversion parts rebuild 4ag turbo/supercharge options motor build std/rebuild/street/race/drag parts avaliablity/price some pointers to get you started...

hey trev :hmm: looking good! ae71's are the shiz... how did you go with t50 rebuild you mentioned? parts/price/difficulty etc?

you would never get your money back, or the time and effort rebuilding it properly... auto boxes often go for free and 4spd manuals are usually quite cheap. 5spds are the only gearbox really worth anything and if you had it rebuilt maybe a bit more?

ok sussed it, go here... pbr catalogues now choose make and model and model code and wait for it to refresh, for mozilla firefox left click in the bottom half in the window mentioned above and then hold down centre mouse button and move mouse downwards to scroll down. for internet explorer left click in the bottom half of the window mentioned above and then hold down left click while dragging mouse downwards to scroll down. strange but true... peace out :)

hey i have part numbers and specs for the 3 most suitable masters, as redwarf and lindsay said the early mazda laser and galant masters are the best match for twin circuit and the nissan vanette for single circuit. also galant comes in approx 4 types, ie different bore sizes and boosted / non boosted. will post up in the next few days hopefully as last i remember the pbr online catalogue is very useful but doesnt work properly, you have to do some trickery to get the part listings off it so i saved them last time i looked. theres a few aspects ie mounting flange, bore size, stroke, dimensions - length / reservior size being important with twin carbs and the outlet position although you can use banjo fittings to change the plane the outlet comes out at.

both motors are big long expensive builds, not that it puts people off though... 3tgte: is old and it will need definately need a rebuild and you might as well go forged internals as the price for stock internals + machining is very similar, plus you end up with more boost friendly forged internals and big oversize pistons if you so desire, 88.5mm overbore is recommended max on boost with a suitable block. computer is very basic and tuned aftermarket will work absolute wonders, its really needed in fact as the stock management is stone age to say the least. ct12 turbo is small and crap, consider rebuilt supra ct26 or ct26A for easy fit or these days a garret new or altered to spec is a very worthy investment and cheap, consider hiflow and small exhaust housing for better response. gearbox to be w55 not t50 if you go past factory power spec. shims are under bucket and precisionshims can make yours to suit at about $10ea so $80 total. you can use the 2tg head as it supposedly flows better and 2tg cams for better power band but this is a matter of opinion, its a lot of work for the power gain and is up to you. t series motors are period specific and so this helps with the originality of the car but its up to you to go for the power or classic category. t series motors are rwd and everything faces the right way and no gearbox dramas. t series are heavy. 4age: coming...

yeah i find the best measurement is wheel mounting face to wheel mounting face, ie outside of hub to outside of hub.

you can get them but its price + postage vs rust repair sections + labour, problem is as mentioned if they are a poor fit as they often are you wouldnt you be better off with 2nd hand good condition guards + rust repair sections + labour?

easy, take off your current wheels and measure diff then look at stock ke70 wagon diff measurements ie norbies axle database / mattie toyota database site / faq / forums etc... i seem to think theres a s series and a t series on the ke70 wagons from what i last remember but i could be wrong?

superpro would be the place to go, sells the bush material in 300mm or so lengths at 50mm diameter or something like that, the sections come in different grades of stiffness and retail at about $80 to $120 a length or so :y: easy to get from fulcrum suspension outlets all over qld last time i looked. although i also was going to make bushes out of raw tube it takes careful machining to get a good finish, check the article on it on the superpro website. what i did was get the specs of my old bush and cross reference to another bush which needed some minor machining to suit :wink:

on a side note regarding your air fuel ratio meter, it wont help much at all if its a narrowband its gotta be a wideband for proper tuning but hey at least its a start. with your setup could be a few things to do with the turbo as mentioned already...