styler

ill see if i can find a listing, they appear on ebay on occasion...

sounds like an interesting build, i like!

its not an easy task nor wise in many ways but say you just had to do it then get the nissan gearbox to suit! theres no way you want to adapt the difficult option of bellhousing/clutch/flywheel rather than using the much easier option of a shifter/tailshaft/cross member by using the nissan box, just a thought...

flares for te27: te27 metal te27 reproduction fibreglass meridian motorsport type generic ebay old skool jap ones these are all from 1 inch to 2 inch i have the te27 reproduction fibreglass ones and they are a perfect fit on the ke25, fronts are 1.5, rears are 1.75 i think. also.... if the wheels stick out you need a flare aesthetically for looks, but when the wheel travels upwards with the suspension its going to hit the wheel arch because the wheel sticks out past the body. this is the biggest problem, on the fronts you can chop it out easily or flare it out as its a single skin of metal but on the rears its more complex as its double skinned and would need some fabrication work. if you leave the arches in then which some people do you would have about an inch of travel before the tyre hits the arch on a lowered car, some people will really stiffen up suspension to avoid this buts its not the proper solution. just checking you have sussed this out :(

indeed except for scrub radius / king pin offset which is directly related to offset at times :) but yeah irokin is definitely on the money there with width as you basically want to retain the same backspace for internal clearance and as rim width increases the offset will need to decrease to keep the same backspace which is probably more important overall... so what is it you want to know the offset for? getting new rims?

id say around +30p, quite possible to be either +27p or +33p as was common at the time. phone a tyre shop and ask nicely if they could look it up for you in their catalogue :)

prob around 200 a shaft with installed inner and outer joints, then labour of around $400 or so.

take it to a camshaft shop and they will run it on a cam grind machine like camdoctor or the likes... you can't tell exactly by eye especially with rocker ratios etc, only a rough guess by camshaft lobe.

no centres will be a different size, ke corollas are aussie borg warner or jap banjo types.

check faq section

yeah what philbey said, look up static vs dynamic compression ratios too

hey also consider that wheel track is slightly different between variations of the same chassis platform and that you will find the ke30 will have the narrowest out of the _e30 range, you can use figures from the widest variation of the car so i would try te30, it really helps with overseas sportier models and their lower offset wheels and wider diffs hint hint... something i eventually came up with while i was in the same boat as you trying to engineer my wheels :locked:

steel wheels can be done, race engineering brisbane is a wheel modification shop that specializes in this type of work. seems like you buy the centre and the outer band, then they weld it at the desired offset and drill the pcd, id imagine about $800 a set? they also could widen your wheels but I'm not sure how economical that would be?

x2 if someone is asking how to do it first time, this is the right advice :)

haha knew i forgot something! yeah some aftermarket gear sets are around $2500!

that cam is for fast street or race really.... also remember an engine is a balanced system, so i would imagine: To make it work: 290 deg cam new harder valve springs to suit 11:1 static comp To make it work well: induction twin carb exhaust extractors more powerful ignition ported head bigger valves if possible lighter flywheel To keep it together: balanced bottom end make sure valve train is strong To go the full show: forged pistons aftermarket rods professional port something like that anyway... you can't just get a hot cam only for use in a standard engine :D

too true...

it better not end up like your signature! you would be riding with diff on body, no bumpstops... its possible but pointless :dance: take a look under your car at the diff and see how far it is from the body and see how much distance you have, then add in some suspension travel and ground clearance and it will give you an idea of how much you have to play with. 100mm is the legal amount it has to clear from ground level.

possibly diff backlash?

+30p or so i believe

i gotta say the straight flip over ones have been the best for me in general, flex heads are too bulky and flex when you try get the end on unless you hold them, the flex lock ones are expensive and fiddly to use and the ratchet reverse lever on angled ones is something to get caught when your working. depends on what type of application you use them for though :D the flex head ones are literally rachet crows foot spanners in a sense for difficult to reach areas but you can't crack or do up bolts in the crows foot position though. i use the trade tools force flip over ones, come in a comprehensive set with cheap single replacements and are really cheap with a lifetime warranty. i think its about $100 for 8mm to 19mm ( includes most sizes ) and about $160 for 10mm to 24mm?? (includes most sizes) definately worth the money to have a set whatever the brand / type though!

jap banjo diff - easy to change centres borgwarner - pain to change centres borgwarner could possibly be stronger by a small amount if any but its only a rumour as far as i know, so you are better off with jap banjo in my opinion as both types arent strong at all really and the jap banjo diff centre is way easier to change, 100kw driving hard but not driving harshly would be the limit to a reliable jap banjo / borg warner diff i suppose?

what do you want to achieve with the ke70 in the end? if you have a 96 mirage lying around and want to put the engine in the ke70 because it seems like a better motor your theory is good, but in reality its a small power gain, a shit load of modifying / research and would cost you from $2000 diy to $5000 workshop if its easy or $5000 diy to $10000 workshop if its not...

as the wiki says: 4A-FE 1st generation 4A-FE engine. 2nd generation 4A-FE engine. 4A-FE engine sticker. The 1987–1998 4A-FE is the descendant of the carbureted 4A-F. This version, although from the same series and the same generation as the 4A-GE, is different from its "brother" in terms of performance and power. Although both have the same displacement and are DOHC, they were optimized for different uses. The first obvious difference are the valves, the engine's intake and exhaust valves were placed 22.3° apart (compared to 50° in the G-Engines). The second is that it employed a "slave cam system", the camshafts being geared together and driven off one camshaft's sprocket (both camshafts' sprockets on the G-Engine are rotated by the timing belt). Some of the less directly visible differences were poorly shaped ports in the earlier versions, a slow burning combustion chamber with heavily shrouded valves, less aggressive camshaft profiles, ports of a small cross sectional area, a very restrictive intake manifold with long runners joined to a small displacement plenum and other changes. Even though the valve angle is closer to what is considered in some racing circles to be ideal for power (approximately 25 degrees), its other design differences and the intake which is tuned for a primary harmonic resonance at low revs means that it has about 20% less power compared to the 4A-GE. The plus side of this design is that it improved fuel efficiency and torque, the down side is that it compromises power. Power rating varies during certain generations that had the engine. The difference between the two generations of this engine can be identified by the external shape of the engine, the first generation (1987–1993) have a more rugged look, a plate on the head which read "16valve EFI", and the fuel injectors in the head. The second generation had a higher profile cams design in the head, the cam cover having ribs throughout its length and the injectors in the intake manifold runners. The second generation engine was produced from 1992 until 1998.[1] Toyota designed this engine with fuel economy in mind. The 4A-FE is basically the same as the 4A-F (introduced in the previous generation of Corollas), the most apparent difference being the fuel delivery system. The 4A-F used a carburetor, while the 4A-FE used electronic fuel injection system (notice the "E"). Also, the 4A-FE had extra power. The engine was succeeded by the 3ZZ-FE, a 1.6-liter engine with VVT-i technology. yeah try search forums - rides sections and faq for better motors and engine conversion write ups.

id say check out more common and better motor conversions... a 4afe conversion isnt common or much of an upgrade, at least you wont have to upgrade the driveline but its a waste of resources in my opinion - try another motor!