styler

zenki = 24mm kouki = 25.4mm

t series diffs and lsds revision all t series are are zenki small axle (common), except for ae86 later model and ae95 4wd are kouki big axle (rare) - as far as i know. e series has the same spline count and diameter as kouki but is not interchangable with kouki axles due to a different spline profile. zenki / kouki brands avaliable - kaaz, cusco, tomei, trd (all clutch type). trd may have a helical (torsen) model avaliable for zenki (small axle early model) obx have a helical (torsen) for for kouki (big axle later model) the width may be ok with very positive offset rims and not too wide tyres but if you run the same very positive offset rims and tyres all the way around they would probably hit the front struts. width of a ke55 = 1355mm wheel mounting face to wheel mounting face. t18 = 1400mm wheel mounting face to wheel mounting face (ie from t18 specs track = 1335, wheel offset +32p)? so an increase of (1400 - 1355) / 2 = 22.5mm a side wider, theres a gap in stock arches between tyre and arch so you could move outwards with a wider diff but you can't go much more outwards with lower offset rims than +32p or by having bigger tyres as they will hit the arch. so if you keep stock rims and tyres you probably could swap the diff but any wider tyres will require more positive offset rims to bring the tyre under the arch or any lower offset rims will need skinny tyres or require diff shortening. you could use a ta22 diff, they are zenki and 1355mm wheel mounting face to wheel mounting face.

$100 remove mounts. $100 to weld on. try yellowpages for diff shop.

welcome to oil city, oil will get through that air filter and coat your gearbox, trans tunnel and some of your engine bay. then it will make a mess, stink and burn and get nice and messy when dust mixes in with it. theres a reason they use a catch can, its because it fills up with oil!

yeah technically speaking if you use hubcentric spacers that locate on the spigot and also provide an external spigot for the wheels to locate on with the correct wheel studs and pcd etc it would be the best spacer method avalaible, as long as the spacers are made from a quality metal. however to be strong they have to be thick, eg 10mm or so, you wont get ones in 3mm for instance. as has been said the load is meant to be on the spigot, the studs are there to hold the wheel on. most cars 70's onwards i have seen have spigots on the hubs front and rear. but even so they are illegal as far as i know, I'm not sure but you may possibly be able to get them engineered. in the end if you can help it, get wheels that fit properly first time. also people sometimes only run front spacers to clear the strut and don't put them on the rear which changes the front track but not the rear track in addition to track changes overall by wheel offset, not usually a big problem though (running front spacers only).

i don't see why not, mild steel or stainless 304 doesnt seem to warrant a difference in drilling, just stainless is harder to drill / cut but other than that should be the same dimensions.

well id say something with the auto box obviously but the only thing id to myself on an auto box is change the fluid, everything else id get done at an autobox shop, they arent very diy as far as i know unless someone here knows more about them...

ke30/55 = 1370mm.

yeah easy as, just convert your rear leaf sprung rear end to a coil sprung control arm rear end. a drive in drive out conversion cost of around $2000. read this for further information and education, its a really good read: carbibles suspension and on the page look at: your leaf sprung rear end a coil sprung rear end with control arms a coil sprung rear end with parallel 4 link and panhard rod and see how they are different and it will give you an idea of the work involved.

has be covered many times before but heres a cost scale flipping/adding subtracting - $0 to $50 - for some spare leafs lowering block kit - $120 reset professionally - $300 all require a few hours and some basic tools and mechanical aptitude and away you go...

a few dizzys will fit but whether they will work or not is another problem. try nardek, brd racing and toymods - a guy is selling converted elec dizzys to suit t series motors.

f series is a good compromise between weight / strength and avaliability of parts / lsd types for a 1ggte power of say 200kw

well probably something to do with one or more of the following: 1. wheels - out of balance, bad bearings, buckled 2. steering components worn eg tie rod ends, loose steering box 3. wheel alignment needed (bad camber/caster/toe) 4. bent strut something like that anyway...

ke30: in aus city $0 to $100 max pickup for a shit car complete to scrap $50 to $250 max pickup for an average car complete to wreck add up to $50 for diy delivery.

both 114.3 x 4 pcd.

swmotorsport.com

i feel sorry for cops when they do the right thing by trying to teach you better and then end up at your house telling your mum how you were doing 120km in a 60km zone at night, had the lights turned off, failed to indicate then tried to drift around a roundabout, lost control and killed a group of kids on the pavement walking home from a party, so wake up and don't be stupid.

use lowered suspension for the vehicle specified.

yeah lol, at least its only a friction plate swap or kit time, heavy duty kits are only a bit more (higher clamping pressure plate, organic full face friction disc, standard throwout bearing)

yeah the ta22's do come with early t50 ( 20 spline output shaft ) stock if its a 2t motor. 3tgteu w55 is the only supra gearbox to bolt up to t series motors. w55 series supra gearboxes (maybe others) can be mated to t series motors using a 1G bellhousing but no other way has been found yet. some good advice from everyone, just on the technical side though id say a really great option for turbo would be a 3tc motor straight swap and run a small bolt on 3tc turbo kit and ecu, run 160hp and use the stock t50 and get a t series lsd in the stock diff, upgrade the axles though. then spend money on repair, suspension, handling and brakes. any power over 160hp you will need a driveline upgrade, ie supra box and f series diff with lsd for reliable aggressive driving. quite a few ta22 engine options: 2t: 3tc: 2tg: 3tg hybrid: 3tgte: 4ag series: 18r: 18rg: 1g series: 3sg series: ca18 series: sr20 series: people have worked the stock 2t motor to a semi driveable 100kw at the flywheel NA spec build up but its not too friendly anymore to cruise around in. you can't find a 3tgteu because they are an old and unusual engine, i have had one, its twinspark, parts are really expensive or just simply not avaliable, the standard ecu is run by a gameboy, its the perfect turbo motor for a ta22 prepared you give up a bit of your life to sort one out and spend big on rebuild and retuning a delco ecu or similar. ta22 turbo motor conversion cost estimate is from $5000 base swap to $10000 more power. look at tech, search stuff and check out members rides at: classic celicas - http://users.chariot.net.au/~stmezz/celica.htm toymods.com toyota3tc.com that might give you some idea of everything, still loads of people playing around with old celicas.

give us something to work with and we may be able to help you out, age, skills, knowledge, budget, time frame, quality of build etc all help to give you good advice on what you want to do.

try toyota3tc.com, they would probably have grind numbers as well :y:

if you want it for burnouts just keep the vn v6 in the vn? a lighter car will be made front heavy with that motor and not turn very well in corners, as has been said you will get a lot of understeer. also you will need diff upgrade for sure, and a car like that which has heaps of power but no handling does end up being a burnout car or a burnt out car if you try and race it. as for a road legal ke70, its not listed for weight in the code of practice but say it weighs around 950kg at a guess then in qld for instance you can put the largest engine of: NA capacity cc = original weight kg x 3 2850 cc = 950 kg x 3 Forced Induction = original weight kg x 2.5 2375 cc = 950 kg x 2.5 but hey if you want to build a cheap reliable burnout car for comps or something i think it would work great.

ah yes even self priming / lift pumps usually have a lift distance of 10cm etc but anything above that wont suck fuel and has to be primed manually.

jar ( just alloy radiators ) do an alloy model, was going for $400 or so. or 3 core rebuild resprayed in 2 pac paint i think. or standard 2 core had some sort of coating, as standard radiators have a copper core but are sprayed silver or black for corrosion resistance.