styler

and remember to remove the starter motor and gearstick / auto shift

1. ke70 is good 2. 5 speeds are nice 3. its fair punchy for a 4k? 4. search on here for supercharged 4k 5. locked diff not good for handling or grip in wet + illegal insurance wise for street + axles snap 6. forced induction with big power boost on std 4k will blow it up never mind axles yet 7. axles wont high tale there asses out, might break if abused though 8. r31 parts + full reco including reco lsd + shorten + axle respline = around $2000 9 link up as in adapt disc brakes onto the diff = $200 if second hand bolt on to $800 if new parts modified to fit

what he said ^^^ also you can't remove too much overall or from remove very much at all from certain areas. a proper shop should be able to tell you how much they can remove safely. get it balanced after as well obviously.

a vacuum gauge tells you lots of things if you know how to read it right, there are some articles on the net about it if you have a look.

its much easier to remove the gearbox with the engine out the car but can be done in car. one method of making it easier is to tilt the gearbox down to undo the bellhousing bolts.

check toymods for the lower control arm database with lengths and mounting points, just measure your lca specs and away you go :)

yeah almost :) cam rotates and pushes upwards on lifter with pushrod inside which pushes up on rocker arm which rocks over pivot and pushes valve downwards :D

so how did you fix it? i hate brake problems, always leads to lots of mess :)

not a chance lol, the lifter bores are long straight tunnels with a rod (pushrod) going down inside them and the pushrod goes into a bucket (lifter). the lifter rests on the cam lobe and goes up and down in the lifter bore with the cam rotation. the pushrods just rest in the lifters so when you pull out the pushrods out the lifters tend to stay in the bores, then you need to remove the lifters to remove the cam as they will get in the way of the cam lobes and cam bearing journals as the cam tries to slide outwards from under the bores as they are all up and down over different cam lobes. so you can take them out with a special gripper tool or a strong magnet and keep them in order so you can replace them as removed to match the lobe. check lifters for wear as they are purposely taper ground to aid rotation on tha cam lobe and arent flat as you might expect. new cams need lifters reground to break in properly as far as i know, something to keep in mind.

check on this but i heard if you spin the sc12 or 14 superchargers too fast it melts the teflon seals, i think about 12psi was some sort of limit...

in short it looks like the chubby bastard child of a fat ugly german business man and a slim beautiful japanese woman.

piggyback ecu may be the next step and then its full aftermarket

its set for a certain engine rpm - peak power, peak torque, redline, or user choice. or if factory then factory set at whatever they deem the max rpm shift

try getting an adjustable kit from redline or weber distributor and mod to suit.

*edited - was arse about tit on friction disc install* are you sure TM isnt for trademark? lol just kidding but seriously the sprung centre section (the bit with the springs in it) should be proud of the friction disc (look at the friction disc side on and see the whole section that is raised on one side of the disc only) and that raised section of the disc resides in the clutch pressure plate side (transmission side) not the flywheel side (engine side). i don't know if thats your problem but i had the friction disc installed on backwards the first time i ever worked on a car and was trying to change my clutch assembly, i had similar problem diagnosis with pedal movement and associated horrible noises as well as being covered in gearbox oil, when i pulled the tailshaft out to begin removing the gearbox :'( the things you learn... i had to throw my clothes away as the stench never leaves anything it touches. check bearing, make sure clips are working (should put in new ones) and always use a new bearing which you have done. you grease the sliding section of the throwout bearing mechanism if i remember correctly and the wet the input shaft (wipe on / wipe off) and I'm not sure about greasing the face that touches the pressure plate as some people do it but i don't think you should have to as the bearing face spins on grease anyway and external grease at 6000 rpm probably will go onto the friction disc with bad results. did you get you flywheel step machined again? you should always do that for a new clutch :P else could be your old pilot bearing is worn (the gearbox input shaft bearing which is hosted in the end of the crankshaft)

it costs a lot, i hope you have saved up some cash!

heres a possible scenario - your clutch friction disc is on backwards and you are using you pcv valve hose not the the vacuum booster hose that you should be using.

check ncop (national code of practice) for rules, it comes into effect for qld in jan 2009. ncop

yes you can do it, need brakes, gearbox and diff to suit power of ca18det.

29-01-2008, 12:41 PM Mathew Junior Member 1st year Apprentice Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: NSW Reputation: 99 Ke55 Corolla Sedan With Engineered 3T-GTE Turbo Motor - Sydney - $1800 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have a KE55 sedan that is for sale it has a 3T-GTE motor and turbo supra gearbox. The car was featured in “HOT 4’S“ magazine issue no 31 and the article was called “THE TOY”. The car has been fully engineered and I have managed to get a copy of the report. The registration number of this car was “TOY-18T” I also have a Microtech Digi series 1 computer. Also an almost complete 3T-GTE motor IN PARTS (missing Crankshaft) and a spare supra gearbox also an intercooler with piping and “BOV” but I only have one turbo and manifold unfortunately! I also have some miscellaneous conversion parts to suit this motor into a celica including a button clutch! The car is rusty around the edges but I also have another complete vehicle (includes doors boot and bonnet etc) to use as a donor car. KE55 sedan 3T-GTE motor and turbo supra gearbox “HOT 4’S“ magazine issue no 31 and the article was called “THE TOY”. Engineering report supplied registration number of this car WAS “TOY-18T” Microtech Digi series 1 computer 3T-GTE motor in parts (missing crankshaft) supra 5 speed gearbox Supra intercooler with piping and “BOV” miscellaneous conversion parts to suit this motor into a celica including a button clutch! I also have another complete vehicle (includes doors boot and bonnet etc) to use as a donor car. Also have 3 Dragway mags to suit! Asking $1800 for everything! This is a repost as I have now dragged everything out of the garage and have photos. Contact Matt on mobile 0418628433 or home 98632706 for more details. Email [email protected]

id say its a safe bet everything was included for $1800 and nothing remains 10 years later :dance: *** edit *** >>> it was up for sale again in jan 2008

hey seems like you are onto it already, i would change rear leaf bushes first (easy and not expensive) then get a rear wheel alignment check to see if the diff is bent, check wheel bearings and axles, then check/change shocks (which you have already done) then change tyres, then fabricate a panhard rod setup or watts link if you feel like it. thats the order id do it in but someone else may have another idea of why it floats? bald or cheap hard tyres could also be possible? the u_bolts holding diff to leafs may be loose or not attached properly?

yeah indeed :dance: only options without narrowing are an alfa 105 lsd diff ta22 t series with lsd possibly a escort lsd diff of sorts small 4x4 diff with lsd every other diff needs shortening and axles cut down or resplined, theres really not many diffs as narrow as a ke20/ke25 - its 1320mm from wheel mounting face to wheel mounting face. and besides a t series the other ones are rare or not as strong or difficult to work with or expensive or need many conversion aspects - pcd, mounts, tailshaft flange, aftermarket / factory lsd, rebuild parts etc in toyota terms and family after t series its f series then g series in strength and weight which is something to consider too. a few of us here have been through this whole ke20/ke25 lsd diff saga and theres no easy fix, its all a compromise between avaliability, lsd options, strength, weight, cost, amount of modification etc... the best option after ta22 is to compromise by having a stronger one cut one down and benefit from all the other aspects, more common, cheaper, stronger and more reliable in the long run but more inital cost :P

id like to see that dyno sheet! 95kw at wheels is around 120kw at fly which is about 160hp. 4k full race spec could see 100kw at the fly but would be very undriveable :dance:

well 250kw atw could be around 300kw at the fly, from a 1.6 litre forced induction its going to have to come from somewhere spectacular! something will have to be the compromising factor in your equation, you can't have it all!