styler

hey 185 on 7.5 inch rim works but i doubt its legal.

thats ke70 oil filled strut with girlock calipers and the oblong funny shape bolting pattern for the backing plate.

41mm

just for you mate ill go pull out a strut and get the calipers on the id

for car weight its a set figure for the heaviest version of the car (ie 4 door sedan not including station wagon) with auto transmission. the list of car weights is in the qld code of practice for light motor vehicles. probably the same or similar for other states and also probably the same or similar where NCOP (National code of practice) applies. so it doesnt matter what your car weighs, just what the book says. any more power and you will probably need a driveline upgrade and lsd which costs a lot. personally i would work the 2tg which is really common and easy to do or if you really have to, supercharge it with a sc14. engine conversions cost a lot! id say spend half that money on the 2tg and you would have an awesome motor!

rollacosta id advise you to make your own thread and do a search first.

tuesday is cheap night at archerfield, its something like $30 for 2 sessions? or 3 for $45?? it does pay to for EVERYONE to get there on time early and book in before 6 or 7? after that time the hordes start flowing in. and i don't think they take bookings unless its a championship package or something like a corporate event deal package, might be able to twist their arm and sweet talk them into a booking lol. make sure the full track is avaliable, one tuesday some championship event was on taking the other half of the track and half a track makes twice as many karts, literally driving over each other at times.

ke20/25 oil filled strut tube outside diameter is about 45mm.

don't drill holes in the chassis rails. work out where you REALLY save weight in kilos, and go do that first rather than spend ages taking grams out.

x2 lol I'm with irokin

you need to buy them to try them on? thats a load of shite! if you are serious and have the cash then they should do it for free else offer $20 or something if you really have to. 8 inch rim = 205mm. its not the rim thats going to hit anything, its the tyre that will hit. if you run a proper width tyre for the rim and not some stretched undersize tyre inflated to 40psi to stop it coming off the bead (which is exactly what takumi heroes do) then the tyre will be much wider than the rim. tyre chart

ah also fwd offset wheels will need to be very positive offset so you wont be able to use them on the front and you wont be able to run very wide tyres either on the rear. it will look wierd with 2 sets of rims or if they are the same style the fronts will have more dish than the rears lol unless you run bolt on spacers on the front and use the very positive offset rims all round which is an option i suppose.

lol yeah not much in the way of a cheap diff upgrade unfortunately everything comes at a price. a diff upgrade is mainly in 3 parts : fitting, strength and lsd options. (other small factors are bigger bearings, ratios, brakes, less flex, easier to change centres etc) and if you need more strength because you have more power you will probably need a lsd to get traction to the ground which is a very important factor to consider as diffs often only take a certain lsd type. fitting: try to get same stud pattern, same brake type or close, same spigot hub size or smaller not bigger, and remember to get the pinion angle right when welding mounts and platforms on! super easy is same width or slightly wider and same mounts just bolt up (haha like this ever happens much...) $0 easy is same width or slightly wider, transfer mounts and platforms across. $300 meduim is shorten slightly and cut down axles or use shorter axles if they exist and transfer mounts and platforms across $600 hard is shorten lots, respline axles or suitable thicker axles. $800 strength is pretty much directly related to the weight of the diff don't go overkill as it will stuff suspension and unsprung mass and add too much weight to the car overall. also brakes may have to be upgraded so consider if this is possible on the new diff. lsd options, research types of lsd, how they work and think which one suits you best, choose oem or aftermarket, then find out how much they are and how much they are and prices for rebuild kits are etc. not all diffs take lsds or don't take other types of lsd than the original factory type. lsds are very different - do your homework! for a start look at: differentials how they work lsd how it works viscous lsd cone type lsd torsen lsd clutch pack lsd 1 way, 1.5 way, 2 way lsds 2 pinion vs 4 pinion rebuild kits / prices for new lsd

jap front loading (diff comes out front) the whole carrier comes out with centre so if the bolts are on the front it obviously unbolts from the front and the carrier come out, obviously is jap borg rear loading (diff comes out rear) remove the plate and take just the centre out by undo bracket bolts inside. if the bolts are on the rear they are the plate bolts, so undo them, remove plate and out she comes from the rear obviously a borg diff. for both jap and borg you need to remove both axles to remove a diff centre, take off wheels, take off drums, undo shoe spring, rotate hub window to each of the 4 bolts and undo, put drum on backwards with wheel nuts and impact it towards you until the axles send you arse over tit. laugh that you finally got them out. change diff centre and remember no more line lockers on a 6 inch diff.

ke20 to ke55 is same inserts. lower end most avaliable eg monroe, pedders, ac delco, gabriel. mid range only 1 still produced - boge. kyb is no longer avaliable. top end use mr2 with adapter kit (spacer+nut) trd, koni, others?

width and offset usually printed on rim somewhere eg 7JJ x 14 +12P this means 7 inches wide by 14 diameter with a postive 12 offset. a lot of slop? if its on the hub its because aftermarket wheels have an oversize spigot hole and need spigot rings to take up the slack on locate on the hub spigot properly. most tyre shops can sort you out or performancewheels.com.au have loads avaliable. if its the nuts then you have incorrect nuts, may be wrong type ie you may need straight flank or tapered, they are too long or need washers or too thin in diameter of shank. there are lots of different wheel nuts avaliable, try speco.com.au for a big listing if you want the same rolling diameter (ie size) as factory for speedo and same speed/acceleration then use a tyre conversion calculator to get the same rolling diameter tyre calculator :cool:

it can be mounted with ta22 mounts or similar but the engine doesnt sit right, its on a slight angle and too far back if i remember correctly. this makes it a pain to change gearboxes as the top bellhousing bolts become difficult to get out unless you use the tilt method and a long extension on a impact gun. actually here you go: courtesy of jonny rochester t series conversion info

a car thats 500 grams lighter but doesnt go anywhere :cool: some guy with a civic got lightened wheel nuts specially made, lol to save a few grams would have cost a shiteload haha

or put a shield over it, like a square section of 2mm sheet steel with brackets.

ah sweet seems there are a few options then, anyone have part numbers + prices?

locked diff + rain = no.

id be going for a lightened flywheel first unless you have one already?

seems like ke20, 25, 30, 55 front damper inserts (shock absorbers) are the same fit? if this is the case it would make it much easier to track down absolete listings like ke20 and use listings still avaliable like ke55. pedders monroe rear dampers are different types but usually much easier to find than the front inserts.

haha 350z spec

how old are you?