styler

lol. yeah id have to say overrated would be a car in original (unmodifed) form and very close to the condition that it left the showroom floor. iv seen many cars that are "pretty overrated" but very few that are truely overrated. you can't build a overrated car, you have to find it hidden somewhere unmolested and well stored, then try pry it off the owner for a large sum of cash:p theres no way a pimped out ride is overrated! any major work on a pretty overrated car would make it restored car i reckon, but minor work could pass for overrated?

^ hey LINDSAY i think you may find those are mz10 rims : 15x6 114.3x4 pcd +20 offset 60mm spigot ma61 rims : 14x7 114.3x4pcd +8 offset 60mm spigot

iv spent hundreds of hours sussing a rear end for ke20/ke25 and i can tell you theres no easy solution! honestly i have tried every option and each has a downfall, just choose the one with the downfall that suits you best. i have had close on 10 different setups checked out. options: 1) make do with the original banjo or borg diff and rebuild it (bearings, seals), rebuild diff centre (backlash, preload etc) pros - cheap, good pcd/spigot/brake size cons - weak stock diff 2) make do with stock diff rebuilt or not and weld centre / use spool. pros - cheap, slightly stronger, good pcd/spigot/brake size cons - axles remain weak, illegal, dangerous, no insurance. 3) make do with stock diff rebuilt or not and use a magic lsd insert - phantom grip, tayell automotive insert. pros - cheap, semi lsd, good pcd/spigot/brake size cons - weak, lsd is not proper lsd (it semi works but not a true lsd) 4) put a diff in of same width, almost bolt in and no cutting housing down and resplining axles. cars with narrow diff = ford escort, datsun 120y, datsun 1200, alfa 105, galant, a few others... pros - cheaper, no cutting diff down, some may be slightly stonger, semi lsd avalaible, only some good pcd/spigot/brake size cons - only slightly stronger is it worth it?, no proper lsd avaliable except the alfa and escort both expensive lsds i think. 6) put a diff in of slightly wider width. cars with slightly wider diff = corolla ke30 / ke55 1355mm, celica ta22 1355mm, rn10 / rn20 hilux 1370mm, a few others... pros - cheaper, almost bolt in, some have lsds avaliable, semi lsd avalaible, good pcd/spigot/brake size except hilux. ke30 / ke55 is slightly stronger, semi lsd avaliable ta22 is a fair bit stronger (good lsd avaliable), hilux super strong (good lsd avaliable) cons - decent lsd or rebuild costs from $500 to $1500, rear of car is wider by 50mm track this presents a problem... ke20 rims are 12x4 +30 offset with 155/75/12 tyres. a wider diff pushes these outwards which is fine because they clear the arch, but what happens when you get wider rims and tyres? eg 15x6 inch rims with 205/50/15 tyres? well then you get the problem of what offset to get because too low or negative offset will hit the rear arch and a too high or positive offset will hit the struts if using matched set of rims all round, you can cut the front guard and use a flare but the rear arch is double skinned and its more complicated to cut out the arch and use a flare but it can be done. some people just let the wheels stick out and have mega hard suspension then every half decent bump sends the wheels into the guard or arch pretty stupid. ke30 / ke55 - not much stronger, lsd is not proper lsd (it semi works but not a true lsd) ta22 - axles not huge but are stronger, good lsds avaliable, light hilux - very heavy, can be rare or expensive, most are 6 stud and are wider. 5) cut down a diff to avoid the wheel fouling issue above pros - you can use almost anything as it can be cut down (as long as its cut down more rather than less), can be super strong - bigger brakes, bigger centre, thicker axles, big bearings, lsds avalaible for most diffs. get axles resplined and pcd restudded if needed. will finish later................

weber carb exploded part diagrams weber carbs technical pages

ah the joys of strut swaps ;) beerhead feels the pain :bash: thats why I'm keeping the original ones in my car! there are alternative strut swaps that may give less problems, maybe search on here and toymods?

hey heres something interesting, i have watched a few movies and in some have spotted an old skool corolla! see if we can find all the old skool corollas in movies :jamie: if you can get a pic even better! the protector: sydney warehouse scene with multicoloured corolla ke30/ke55? bmx bandits on the beach strip, ford pulls them up blue ke20 parked next to it. near the end foam scene, maybe yellow ke70? look whos talking baby gets around in a silver ke30 2 door corolla. yeah so post em up!

you can do a wheel alignment the old way with string, wood studs and some chalk i think. might have to look it up on google or something...

ke25 is 1320mm drum mounting face to drum mounting face.

i would say its a good idea to have a stock daily driver, especially if you do an engine conversion. when the conversion is running smoothly for a few weeks then sell the daily if you like, i prefer a daily and a project car myself after years of having only one fast but unreliable car. sometimes you want to go somewhere in style, other times you really just want to get there!

heres a plan, tell us your budget, skills, tools and time frame and we will tell you what you can achieve...

yeah now theres a good deal

mate get some spelling so i can read you thread, it just makes my eyes bleed to read that shite. not a bad t18 in the pics, there is a lot of 3tc NA and turbo gear avaliable from the US at low cost.

if you're not too keen on the tools or don't have any then go buy a ke70, ae71 or ae86 with a 4ag in and running. much cheaper for sure! it will have its own issues as most modified cars do but 99% of the work is done.

id say a rwd 4ag halfcut with driveline would drop into an ae71, as for a fwd 4ag dropping into a ke70, it wont happen without being massaged by a few thousand dollars.

depends on offset

well in qld from the book of practice: ke55 = 920kg auto sedan engine swap with safety upgrade: NA piston type motor in cc = weight in kg x 3 Forced induction piston type motor in cc = weight in kg x 2.5 so ke55 NA = 920kg x 3 = 2760cc and ke55 forced induction = 920 x 2.5 = 2300cc

welded diff is great on track with higher speeds and big turns, not so great for everyday slow tight turns. the main thing is its legal on track and illegal on road, so should you crash into someone or be involved in an accident you wont be covered, even if you are fully insured. so if someone gets crippled or you smash someones porsche its jail for you. or be paying off someones m3 for the rest of your youth... i mean just weigh that up. if you had a jap spec banjo front loader diff it could be easily and cheaply swapped at the track if you went racing for the day, you can use a shorter/taller gear ratio for racing as a bonus. you need to learn how to drive with a locker too, its very different from an open centre. especially when racing or in the wet compared to using an open differential. and pulling in and out of a lot of places with a welded locker is going to chirp the wheels, the cops arent going to think ooooooh i wonder what that was? did you hear that noise constable? i did so sergeant, i do believe thats the mating call of a rabid chimp stuck under that commodore at yatala bp servo at approximately 2am... moving in...

haha lol... saw this a few weeks ago and though the same thing, what a crazy conversion!

1978 ke55 920kg auto sedan

hey no worries, ke25 is 756kg

ke20 1970 auto = 778kg from qld code of practice light motor vehicles section LA option 3 for capacity/weight conversions applies in qld

ke20 jap diff is 1320mm is wheel mounting face to wheel mounting face. i think ke20 borg warner would be the same but id double check first. to retain the original backspace tyre clearance 195's can be used or 205's if you roll the lip. to get the original tyre backspace you must use the correct rim width and offset with the tyre, which is a 6 inch rim with 195 and +12 offset. should you lessen the factory tyre backspace, then you could increase the width more. however you don't want it rubbing on the inside section - the wheel tub side when you corner so don't go to far.

look in yellowpages for a springworks, like mayne springworks in qld where they make leaf packs and also reset leaf packs (as well as other services). either drive in or take in the packs yourself for a cheaper price. cost is about $200 if you remove the packs and take them in yourself.

What you have to do is match valve springs to a particular camshaft. Generally: Stock springs for a stock cam Mild springs for mild cam Heavy springs for heavy cam Go to a cam grinder and get him to analyse the cam you are going to use on the cam profiling machine, might cost $20 for a cam report. Then he will recommend the 2 pressures, a seat pressure and a nose pressure. Then comes the hard part, finding the springs. What you want is springs listed for your engine with a chart of pressures at certain heights. unfortunately sometimes springs are only listed by code or don't have a chart or are listed as a general category ie stock, mild, heavy duty. Then comes the fun part Theres only 2 ways you can play with springs: 1) Different types of springs 2) Installed height 1) So choose a spring, get the spring chart for it and then "install" the springs by the chart figures. You want to try and get the seat and nose pressure that the cam grinder gave you. 2) Seat pressure comes from the installed height, the more its compressed the more pressure the spring exerts. this is done by using different thickness shims under the spring. Most shims come in 15, 30 and 60 thou in a range of ID and OD sizes. Nose pressure comes from installed height minus lift, ie the cam lobe rotates and now the nose of the cam lobe comes around and compresses the spring even more. Why its fun is because the seat and nose pressure are always a compromise as you can only adjust one thing, the installed height. So More seat pressure = More nose pressure Less seat pressure = Less nose pressure You can: 1) Get either one dead right and the other one will be a bit off 2) Compromise on both and have both slightly off spec Now the recommendations by the cam grinder are a guide and don't have to be exact which would only happen by pure chance anyway and springs can be a bit off per batch as well. So obviously the compromise on both is the better option, and you just play around with the installed height until they are both off by the same amount or whatever you like. As i said before the hard part is finding the springs listed by motor with charts. One point to be aware of is that double spring specs are listed as flat height, ie no step in the retainer, most retainers have a step to locate the outer spring which has height to it, so basically the inner spring will be more compressed than the outer, leading to a higher overall reading to the specs listed. This can alter listed specs up to 20% higher for both seated and nose pressure. Sometimes different inners with a lower pressure may bring this down but its difficult to find ones to suit the outer and the retainer.

how much do you have then?