basher_ke20

my bad i was typing real quick and didn't explain it fully was trying to give rough explanation as if it was the "starter motor" holding not the key holding. if it is holding because the throw out is faulty then you can deal with that for a while but as you said if the key is holding then yes this is something to attend to. yes if the solenoid is having problems a "light" tap on the solenoid can be a temp fix just to get you driving. either way it should be isolated whether it is a key problem or a starter motor problem.

if the oil hasnt done much, eg 3 days work, keep it and use it later on something else

sounds like the solenoid is holding the gear in place too long. When they are ok as you would now they retract as soon as started. nothing to worry bout though. if it doesn't start one day try the hammer against the solenoid trick the visit a wrecker

good work Luke. mate can you let me know if you see a ke20 on gumtree as you seem to suss all the good stuff out and i am trying to find another one to go with your brothers. cheers chris

yes the late ones did i think i had one with side strips at one stage but not sure if it was jap or ami spec ones.

it doesn't matter how much additive shit your oil has if the seals are hard and stuffed nothing is going to change that. plus if you are talking about increased oil pressure and old seals something is going to give way. just my opinion as i see this every day

what grade is the oil? i run semi synthetic 15-40 in mine and my oil pressure is always stable, always is a bit lower at idle then under acceleration but that's how it should be. then again i change it every 5000 km. only thing i can suggest is to change and save the oil and see if there is any difference, better that then creating a leak with too thin oil or burning it and glazing the bores. thats just a suggestion

had the same problem and it ended up being the actual ac controller box/ecu. try the other stuff first but if thats no good then i would be changing that

yeah replacing the old worn out stuff like wagn said would be the place to start and a remote brake booster will improve the brakes dramatically. Lukeae71 has one for sale i recon with bracket for a ke20

A common problem i used to get where i worked a few years ago was falcons with leaking exhaust manifolds for extended periods burning exhaust valves. Really common if the manifold was left to leak badly over extended periods. This could just be a ford design problem, would surprise me. :laff:

that is sweet water setup i have the blacktop already just need the flywheel setup to suit the t50. I think ur water outlets and shit might have to be the go for me in the near future. Those ignition articles earlier on were very handy and will be usefull in the future thanks heaps

Nice write up man. I am considering a 20 valve conversion into a ke20/30 but there were a couple of things i am interested in. How exactly did the ignition set up work? Using the standard dizzy but rewired??? Other then this i don't see the conversion being too difficult. I only ask because i want to use the standard ecu. Thanks for ur help boys

should be w16exru11 in denso thanks chris

ok thanks what clubs in sa u recon then thanks chris

does anyone know if i can get a log book from rollaclub so i can get historic rego on my car thanks chris

SORRY I HAVE PUT IT THERE NOW

Hi all i am after a some things for my ke20 2 door if u have any spares or some on a car u are wrecking can u let me know thanks heaps ke55 calipers, disks, lines and backing plates ke55 electronic distributor ke20 dash no cracks in good condition (hard ask i know) ke20 drivers side tail light (early model) ke20 brake booster ke20 drivers door ke20 accelerator cable if u have any other ke20 stuff i would be keen to know thanks heaps