TOMsGPTurbo

Mini-Sub theory: when I was little my family was having a picnic by the river and I saw something that looked like a parascope it sorta came up and then went back down... no one believed me when I told them... could of been a sub? nah way to shallow where we where.... proberly a serpent of somekind... :D Manta-Ray.. thats a bloodly big ray :) tho about the trace that reminds me of what my friend and I found ... a hook that wasn't snaped off... rather split/bitten but not accross it on an angle ... what ever did that had very sharp teeth. I can't really see a large cod towing around a boat... mind you an anchored boat... yesterday I was in the water pulling on the anchor of a hire boat I used around Morton Island and even tho it was a small anchor once it dug into the sand it was near impossible for me to pull it out. Who's up for a JAWS style hunt, go to the local butcher get half of a cow and barrel of blood.. drop it into some shallows in Morton Bay and see what comes along? Tom :)

.....I don't really wanna hear about your 250kg next door neighbour taking a swim in the sea .... :D In 1999, 3 fishermen in a 5.1m boat were fishing at the mouth of Brisbane river when their boat was suddenly towed several hundred metres at speed greater then 10 knots by something submerged which was pulling on the boats 20kg anchor. "The boat spun around in the water like a cork, it flicked the boat like a match box in a bath tub" -John Campbell Witnessed it from The Longtom(a fishing boat) "All I known is that if those guys had been in anything smaller, like a tinny it would have been goodnight" - Department of fisheries representative who witnessed the event from shore. 'The boat suddenly nose dived, ripping the cleat from the boat' - gentlemen on the boat in question. ----- I have seen 2 extremely large Tiger sharks approx 6m in lenght (Both of them dwarfed a fishing boat near by) which could be blamed for towing the fishermen around. Another possibilty is a Dugong. Both Tiger sharks & Dugongs are not well known for their speed & best described to be as sluggish. But beside a shark or Dugong I'm all out of logical answers for what could have intangled itself in a 20kg anchor + line and towed a boat at speed for a couple of hundred metres? On the 10th I checked out the mouth of the Brissie river and all around it, the channel is pretty deep so something very big & fast has direct access to the river. What do you think it could have been? ----- Have you seen or heard anything? Thanks Tom.

ok here goes: Driving along in maxi I noticed a girl walking along a path (as all guys do) and then she trips on the path followed by a hop skip and jump and face plants into the ground.. pretty funny at the time :) Driving to pick up my g/f from work and I'm going past the sunshine coast m1 entrence when I notice a speeding camry loose control fish tail and take out a cop car and truck. Driving back from work watching a VS & Laser racing and playing on the M1, suddenly the laser drops back and I'm crusing with the VS when suddenly the laser flys up next to us with a guys arse sticking out of the window... :ninja: A girl at work holding a yellow sticky note sctraches her back and the sticky note sticks to her back.. and for the next 2mins she runs around screaming "wheres my sticky note!!! wheres my bloody sticky note... anyone seen my sticky note" - at this stage i was on the ground in tears nearly peeing my pants. One of my fave funny moments - Super Troopers (one of best comdeys ever) Theres some things that have amused me :) Tom :)

1, Ferrari GTO model car - in Poland 2, Lamborghini r/c car - back in greece 3, Toyota Corolla II GP Turbo - current daily driver / project car (its a REAL car too!) I do over 800km's a week in it. I unwisely spent all of my money fixing the damage to the old 3ETE engine, and later I pulled it out and put in a 4EFTE (GT Starlet) engine & gear box, MODS: pod filter cold air intake from the bonet scope! 2.25" exhaust, 15" 5 spokes, stereo, alarm, tinted windows, Boost gauge. for a STOCK: car it hosts climate control, power everything - windows, mirrors, steering, central locking, fully adjustable drivers bucket seat and passenger seat with built in bass engines. Some other cool things the car has stocko front strut brace, 4 wheel disc brakes, electronic boost gauge. Its a pretty crazy 1st car, so far it has cost me around 6-8 grand for the purchase price of 3 grand :ninja: I have also own 2 dodge vipers and a black Diablo plus a Ferrari 456 GT also I have a racing yacht in the making. (*coughmodelscough*) :) Tom :)

I know how you feel... I drive from Brissy to Coast daily, it is 5H1T :ninja: Tom :)

TOMsGPTurbo - Tom :ninja: White Toyota Corolla II GP Turbo - 4EFTE, Zorst, Pod, heaps of problems :)

Heya I'm not a big fan of the CT9/12 but I believe they are interchangable, but personlly don't waste your money, save up for a T25/T28 and get a new manifold banged up ... now you can have a decent starting point on getting more power from your engine. One person I strongly recommend you getting in touch with would be Stasi, he is building up a 3ETE and his put on a T28BB from the latest S15. Somethings to watch out for when playing with your turbo etc... your fuel cut on the 3E is around 12.5psi, the ecu will have trouble at anything more... the thing is a lot of people I have spoken to have had little gains when using the stock setup for performance. 1, Front mount intercooler 2, Turbo + Manifold 3, larger injectors 4, ECU upgrade (something suited to older 4cyl turbo cars.. I don't know yet) 5, might want to consider internal work The best place to get ideas from is EP70/71 owners who have worked their 2ETE's ... which are 'small block' 3ETE's. Hope it helps, Tom P.S: Email extract from a starlet EP71 owner

I've always wanted a sprinter... but found maxi... damn maxi.. now I'm stuck with him put WAY to much money into him... and now I can't just leave him... ohwell.... Wish I had a spare 4 grand ish to buy your gze sprinter nick... wanna sell your one when it comes out of the shop :D Tom :D P.S: Initial D is awesome but I agree with you nick, that boy racers will buy sprinters thinking their skills are 'god-like' and will kill themselves... on the plus side more parts... on the down side...wasted sprinters..(I should also say lives about now...) ohwell.... :)

every time i speak to him, he says he's busy (which I know) and that he is curious on what the porblem is with my car and he would like to help me find it, its just hard trying to get him to have a look at it ;) I tried the 'drop in unexpectedly' approach - didn't work I tried calling the work shop - no one picked up I tried his emergency repairs mobile number - he was tied up with something else. It may have been two months or so I've been bothering Ant about my car.. I won't quit tho... ;) Tom :KY:

Hey nick how did u get ant to look at ur car?

I totally agree, Mountain driving is real life fun... risky too.. no room for mistakes or it will cost you your life or your car. Tom :KY:

Hi Nick What's wrong with maxi: Over fueling, using a bit of oil, back firing, belt noises, running at 50% The turbo is holding boost, but its like the engine isn't using it, the car struggles for acceleration & revs its like something is blocking the power from coming out. Besides that suspension needs to be done, the car sits on an angle and the rear tyers are 'bumpy' from the rear end bouncing around over 100km/h. There is some rust spots that need attention in the near future.. I could sell it for a big loss, or just continue with my little project car... I'm going to see Anthony and see what he thinks about it, he said he has a sneaking suspicion it is electrics, but I'm thinking it is fuel delivery. ok enough depressing loss of sleep stressful talk... :sad: When are you getting your ae86 back? Tom :blinks:

Hey guys, Anyone wanna share some driving skills they have learnt over the years??? :blinks: Everything I have learnt is in FWD's, my fave would be lift off oversteer through corners. I'm not a big fan of the handbrake, but apparently somehow it can be used to throw the car through corners? Lately I've been learning and practicing heal and toe and left foot braking. A while ago I had 2 experiences that caught me by surprise, I would like to know what is the best thing to do in the circumstances: Your going through a long sweeping blind corner on a mountain at high speed and you go that fast that the car starts to under steer so you lift your foot of the accelerator and the car starts to lift off over steer; what do you do ??? (This happen to me in the Eunos and the Rolla II - I nearly put the Eunos into a ditch at 160km/h and the Rolla II I just rode the corner at 140km/h until it straightened.. both awaked moments.(NB: Both happened on a track and not the road :D )) ________________________________________________________________________________ ____ The Bottom Line This manual provides and explains the workings of many techniques that are used on real roads in any weather condition. Track racing is a special form of racing. One races on a smooth, usually wide somewhat twisty track, usually on a dry, warm and bright day. Conditions could not provide more of a challenge of a persons true motoring skills! Right? As if! This manual is not about racing on tracks. Tracks are, by their nature, un-natural, clinical - not at all like those real world conditions. Real world conditions are far more demanding than any track. They are unpredictable, unstable, changing weather and climate. Roads that may suddenly be iced down, gravel, mud - everything. Real roads can be as narrow as the car, with hairpins and outrageous turn combinations. The premier motorsport that deals with these conditions is called Performance Rallying - or just Rally Racing for short. Rally means to race on closed down stretches of challenging public roads, real roads. There is no question that these drivers have the very best vehicle control and racing skills on earth, for no other motorsport is as similar to real world conditions and cars such as these. Do you want to learn about the tricks, the driving techniques used in these motorsports? They work just fine with normal cars, after all. Rally cars are not specified as any type of car, they can be anything. This manual assumes you know the concepts of under, neutral and over steer, braking before entering a corner and not inside it and the difference between ABS and non ABS brakes. Nothing in this guide is suitable for truck vehicles such as SUV's and should never be attempted due to roll-over risk. SPEED KILLS - YOU DO NOT NEED TO DRIVE FAST TO HAVE FUN You know the law. These techniques are not compatible with safe disciplined driving. Under Steer is the Main Obstacle A tire that rolls free always has the most possible grip, for it offers no resistance to rolling. As such, a tire that is not spinning will always provide the best grip. This is true for turning as well as accelerating. So gripping through a turn should be the fastest way. There is just one problem - the worse grip gets the more the car will under steer - the inability to turn the car properly. It might seem paradoxical that driving in the way that gives the most grip would be slower around a corner. Despite driving in the way that gives the best grip, all cars will show exaggerated under steer tendencies when overall grip is worse than dry pavement. The more slippery it gets, the worse the under steer. To turn properly speed must be lowered to compensate. If under steer could be countered, then cornering speeds could be higher. As such, most driving techniques are about overcoming this under steer and relate to changing the direction of movement. Over steer is not much an issue with the skill levels required to perform these techniques. If you can do these tricks, you will have learned to have good enough car control to counter the over steer. There are two ways to overcome this under steer. For front wheel drive cars, there is only one proper technique, and it is called left-foot braking. For all wheel drive and rear wheel drive drive trains there is the power slide. ..Not Always the Case On clear paved roads in general, under steer is not much of an issue in a well tuned car. Attempting to use a power slide will wear out the tires extremely fast as well as wasting perfectly good traction that could have been used for getting around the corner with faster speed. Left-foot braking will still work to some extent, but will hardly be necessary. Do not to become obsessed with the idea of that one needs to power slide around every turn. During less severe turns gripping works better. During short, but perhaps somewhat severe turns, it is enough to merely provoke some over steer to get through at highest possible speed, without initiating a power slide. As a rule of thumb: The less grip, the more fancy driving techniques are needed to counter. Power Sliding / Drifting No doubt the most popular and spoken of technique in the past years, due to exposure to Japanese cartoon Initial D, Japanese drifting contests (through the import scene) and perhaps even through the exposure to performance rallies in the media. The cartoon Initial D revolves around Japanese street racers who race in the dry twisty paved roads in the mountains at night, where drifting, basically driving somewhat sideways in corners, is the explained to be the fastest way through a corner. This is not true, and then no wonder there are myths regarding this technique. In a RWD car - Works by applying more power than grip allows to the rear tires. This creates wheel spin, which is a loss of traction (to some extent). Lateral grip is reduced and the rear will have worse lateral grip than the front in a RWD car, causing some over steer. The nose of the car thus is aimed more inward in the turn than normal. Yet the car does not travel in the direction of the nose, but slides sideways. Depending on how much the tire is forced to rotate differently from the ground, it will gain or lose traction. More wheel spin equals less traction and more over steer. So in order to succeed with a power slide in a rear wheel drive car the driver must balance the throttle. If too much throttle is applied, the rear will slide out further than 45 degrees (or whatever the maximum turning of the front wheel is) from the direction of travel which results in spinning out. Not enough throttle and the rear will regain grip and under steer might cause the car to go off the road. The driver must counter steer the front of the car in the direction of travel or the rear end will overtake the front without any possibility of recovery, causing a spin out. In an AWD car - Same principles as the RWD but with many advantages. Not just the rear wheels are slipping, but the front too, and as all four tires have the same diminished grip the rear will not try to overtake the front. This means there is no need to steer the front in the direction of travel. A slipping wheel still has grip, just not as good as when rotating with the same speed as the ground beneath it. When sliding sideways in an AWD car, it will pull twice as hard in the direction of the nose than an RWD. Also it is completely steerable by the front wheels. As the wheels are constantly spinning faster than the ground, the car may be turned more than 45 degrees from the direction of travel, for the front wheels, while not aligned properly, can still change the angle of the car as long as it isn't sliding backward. Yes, one can even correct when the car is pointing over 90 degrees off the direction of travel! Therefore spinouts pose nearly no risk. The advantages of all wheel drive become much larger in racing the more slippery it gets. Not only is it more stable and dynamic, It can go through slippery corners at much higher speed than any other drive train and extract itself from corners with mind boggling speeds. Too Much Traction Initiating a power slide is the hardest part to succeed with. Rear wheel drive has the easiest chance of succeeding as all the engine power is concentrated on only two wheels, whereas all wheel drive has four wheels that share the engine power. If there is not enough power then it might not be possible to initiate wheel spin by turning and powering on the throttle alone. The only other alternative is to use advanced driving techniques to provoke the car into wheel spin. These tricks are nearly always necessary on AWD in to break traction as the natural tendency for AWD is under steer. Simply turning and powering will mostly result in ploughing nearly straight. The process of provoking a slide is called to destabilize the car. The Technique Library Left-Foot Braking Applies To: FWD Usage: Eliminates under steer, achieving neutral steer or even over steer. Theory of Operation: The front wheels are unaffected by the braking as the engine keeps them moving, so their traction is good. The rear wheels are progressively braked which induces resistance to rolling. Worse lateral grip on the rear tires are achieved, making the whole car happier to turn. Instructions: Upon entering a turn, turn in as usual using the steering wheel. Use your left foot to apply the brakes progressively. Depending on engine power, you will probably need to apply more throttle to maintain speed. The higher the braking applied the larger the effect. Notes: The more slippery the surface and higher the speed, the more the effect. Highly dependant on engine power and tuning. Most cars are tuned for front brake bias for under steer (which is considered safest for passenger cars) makes it harder to use. Wears the brakes faster than normal, the front pair in particular. Pendulum Applies To: RWD and AWD. Usage: Destabilizer, for initiating small and large power slides. Also helps car turn around unusually sharp short corners where no power slide is needed. Theory of Operation: Body roll and weight transfer from the two wheels on one side to the other is much stronger, therefore lessening/breaking rear wheel traction. Instructions: Brake earlier than normal before the turn, if speed is too high. If you do not brake earlier and braking is needed, there will be no manoeuvring room for the pendulum. Keeping your speed neutral, while still on the straight before the turn: 1. Quickly start to turn away from the turn 2. Immediately steer back into the actual turn. 3. If power slide is intended, apply sufficient throttle for wheel spin. Notes: The more slippery the surface and higher the speed, the more the effect. Hard to perform at lower speeds without a tighter steering rack. Scandinavian Flick Applies To: All cars which are not equipped with automatic transmissions nor ABS brakes. Usage: Similar to pendulum, but only serves as destabilizer. Safer and more appropriate to use at extremely slippery conditions. Theory of Operation: Rear wheels are not given a chance to regain traction after being locked up from the quick sudden rotation of the car. Instructions: Instead of braking normally in a straight line: 1. Flick the car slightly away from the turn. 2. Immediately release throttle and Apply full braking (wheels must lock) and clutch (or else the engine will stall). The car will now head down the road in a sideways skid pointing away from the turn, decelerating. 3. Put shifter into appropriate gear and turn steering wheel all the way in the direction of the upcoming turn. 4. As the turn arrives, let go of brakes. The car will slingshot into the turn in the same was as if a pendulum was used. Let go of clutch and get back on the throttle. Notes: If you hesitate when first applying the brakes you may go off the road or the front wheels may lock before the rear, making the car aim itself back in the direction of travel. RWD Power Slide Applies To: RWD Usage: Eliminate risk of fatal under steer on less than ideal roads, resulting in higher cornering speeds. Theory of Operation: Spinning rear tires have decreased lateral grip. Instructions: If the engine power is sufficient to break traction simply flick the car into the turn. Immediately apply enough throttle to break traction while at the same time counter steering the car (newbies will notice that if you do not do this at the same time as you apply the throttle you will end up spinning out). More throttle = More lateral tail slide, less forward propulsion. Less throttle = Less lateral tail slide, more forward propulsion. You must find the proper balance. The ideal is as little tail slide as possible, just enough to stop it from regaining grip and under steering. To stop sliding, back off throttle gently and apply opposite lock (relative to the turn). Notes: Stronger engine is easier to work with. Limited-slip or locked differential is nearly a must-have for proper operation. It is possible to use the end of a powerslide to pendulum into another, in the opposite direction. Useful when going from one turn that leads directly into the other. Theory of operation is the same as the final moments of the scandinavian flick. AWD Power Slide Applies To: AWD Usage: Eliminate risk of fatal under steer on less than ideal roads, resulting in higher cornering speeds. Theory of Operation: Spinning tires have decreased lateral grip. Instructions: Destabilize the car. After having done so, stay on the throttle. More throttle = More sideways motion, less forward propulsion. Less throttle = Less sideways motion, more forward propulsion. Ideally the rotation of the car is perfect so it needs no adjustments from the steering wheel - then it is merely kept straight. If adjustments are needed, simply turn the steering wheel and use the throttle to adjust cornering line. You must find the proper balance. The ideal is sliding at an as angle possible without regaining traction and under steering. To stop sliding, counter-steer (relative to the turn). If needed, feather throttle. Notes: Stronger engine is easier to work with. Limited-slip or locked centre and rear differential is nearly a must-have for proper operation. It is possible to use the end of a powerslide to pendulum into another, in the opposite direction. Useful when going from one turn that leads directly into the other. Theory of operation is the same as the final moments of the scandinavian flick. Lift-Off Over Steer Applies To: All drive trains. Usage: Mid-bend adjustability. Induces over steer. Theory of Operation: Deceleration from engine braking of vehicle causes the mass/weight to load on the front wheels from the rear. The lighter rear will have less traction than normal, thus less lateral traction. Instructions: When turning, gradually or fully come off the throttle. Notes: Does not work as well with automatics nor FWD. Many cars have so much under steer built into them that this does not work. It is highly dependant from car to car. RR and MR cars are particularly sensitive to lift-off over steer. Many an accident has happened from an owner of a high powered RWD car but without proper driving skills, lifting off the throttle before or inside the turn, spinning out. Parking/Hand Brake Turn Applies To: FWD, RWD, AWD without limited-slip/locked centre differential, Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VII Usage: Turning the car around very tight hairpins and turns, even on dry pavement. Destabilizer. Theory of Operation: The hand brake is connected to rear wheels only. Applying the hand brake will cause instant loss of traction in the rear, making the rear slide out. Instructions: If in a RWD or AWD, press clutch pedal until release of hand brake. For super tight turn: Turn the steering wheel half a rotation in the turn direction and apply hand brake for as long as you wish to rotate. Ideally the car should nearly stop moving all together by the time you are done rotating. Let go of hand brake slightly ahead of the time you wish to stop rotating. The higher the speed, and the more slippery it is, the harder to stop the rotation. For destabilizing: Turn the steering wheel half a rotation in the turn direction and apply hand brake for a brief moment - only enough to cause sideway sliding of the rear wheels. Then re-engage clutch and come on the throttle. Notes: Works very well (and should never be used other than) at low speeds. AWD cars with a centre limited-slip or locked differential will also lock up the front wheels when applying the handbrake. Lancer Evolution VII has a computer controlled hydro-electric clutch that automatically disengages any locking when hand brake is applied. Careful Clutch-Stab Applies To: RWD and AWD with manual transmission. Usage: Low speed destabilizer. Theory of Operation: Sudden overpowering of wheels causes wheel spin. Instructions: Press clutch pedal, come off throttle and start turning. Match revs to speed, then let go of clutch quickly while applying (depending on engine power output) a lot of throttle. Notes: Useful when having braked too late for a scandinavian flick or pendulum, especially on AWD drive trains. Quick Clutch-Stab Applies To: RWD and AWD with manual transmission. Usage: Low speed destabilizer. Theory of Operation: Revs of engine will quickly rise when clutch is disengaged, and will suddenly overpower the wheels when re-engaged causing wheel spin. Instructions: While turning, apply throttle and stomp the clutch pedal once quickly. Notes: Useful when having braked too late for a scandinavian flick or pendulum, especially on AWD drive trains. Submitted by Subyroo - 13/Mar/2003 Reference http://www.ausubaru.com/articles/drivingtech.htm ________________________________________________________________________________ ____ This is something I found on the net that I think will be of interest to you guys - well i hope it will be!! Tom :)

Heya Nick Welcome to Rolla_Club.... I believe you have meet my other half... Arani :) I am considering saving up for a 4agze for my rolla II, but theres also the Hachi Roku mmm what to do... Heres the plan: Fix the 4EFTE put on new shockies and springs... fix body bits.. have it for a every day driver..and save for the ae86 and make it go like the 'hachi roku ghoast of akina mountain' lol :D I need a 2nd job :sad: Tom :blinks:

damn I missed the 1st rolla help club day lol... I have the memory of a ...goldfish? ohwell whens the next one?

:shit:

I'm gonna just get the car completely looked over... I know i should of done this about 6months ago when the engine went in.. but hey time I hadly have and money ... :) don't even wanna think about it.. I'm a under paid public servent... ohwell... I think i'm gonna be fired soon tho... I've been sick to much and know I have a suspected blood clot or blocked vains in my legs... On a brighter note ... ummm... I'll get back to you guys on that one... Tom :blinks: - scroll

how much could hey do mine for ? Tom :blinks:

hey guys, I'm in urgent need of repairing the 'stem valves'(?) and also the fuel regulator, the two problems that are causing major oil usage and major over fueling and no performance. :blinks: Can you guys help me fix em? |blink| I'm gonna contact the guys who put my engine in and ask for my 4efte fuel rail aswell. Please help Tom :)

jahahahhaha so like now.... after polishing off a BIT of vodka... and most of some sparkly goonoo.. is not a good time to try and fix my engine... lucky i read this ! lol ohhh to drunk gonna sleep.. wait.. yeh sleep.. hmm*passout* Tom :blinks: ---> :barf:

I was thinking last night in bed, as usual loosing sleep over my cars problems.... that most mechanics have ripped me off, so maybe some club members who know how to DIY on Rolla's can get together and help each other out on weekends and what not.. so.. meet up and help on each others cars... etc.. I know I can use the help and gain experiance in helping others.. I have guy currently from the states who has a extremely worked 2ete who is after my engine for its 1.5ltr capacity so get can go from his current 250hp to 360hp... but he said if shipping is to exy he won't take it... so if he doesn't want it I'm going to rebuild it and get some experiance with engine rebulds..but first I have to save up for some decent tools. Anyhow... so if anyones interested in helping each other out etc.. don't be shy and reply. Tom :) P.S: I got the idea from the 'celica club' who do what I mentioned above.. help each other out building up their cars .. :blinks:

True did u see Rollie in fast-fours!! thats a very nice rolla. Well done to Nikki. Lets have a club stand next yr at Toyota Day but we have to get serious and up the bar I guess :) Tom :blinks:

you didn't even go to the Toyota Day!!! to busy doing Rolla-Club cruises ... tisk tisk tisk.. ohwell I went :blinks: lol Tom :)

Did ya see Maxi he was parked near the road... :) wasn't as good as last year, i was hoping the quad rotor would be there... hardly any starlets or rolla's were there too... :D Tom :blinks:

feel free to use any photos from: my galllery Tom :blinks: