freakmotor

"You don't really need the homologation papers for your 20. The only reason i have them is to prove that my 35 (and now my 25) came with a 2TG. What you need to do is go to the CAMS.com.au website, and look in the CAMS manual for the events that you want to drive in. That will give you a much better direction to travel in. For rallying, most things on a car that age are free, with the exception of engine block." HI Redwarf! Thanks so much for all of your help. It's great to get a reply as occasionally I've posted up some stuff and I guess it's just too boring or no one knows me and there is not always a response. {Which of course is completely understandable, just disappointing....} I'm not even sure if there are any more Rollaclub members in Townsville, if there are I haven't met then as yet, being new and all. As far as papers go, the last steward I talked to was the cheif scrutineer at the Mt Stuart Tarmac Rally, and he said I'd need them for any tarmac rally stuff I did. Yes, the block is the main restriction plus a limit to what capacity it can be increased to, hense my ridiculous efforts with the 3k/Norton Commando pistons etc. As you are probably well aware "Free" is a word that is a bit nebulous sometimes. I'm planning to run the full rally next year after navigating for the last two. Last year we blew our motor on run 4 out of 6, this year we placed third after finishing all 8 runs. It poured rain half way through the day this year, which was exciting/scary! If anyone is interested, it's one of the cheaper tarmac rallies around, there are some incar sequences on utube, some from the rally and some from the hillclimbs. The hill climb is 1.2k and runs four times yearly. NO cage required, and a level 2s licence. Hoping next year to increase to about 2.2k's Rally is 7.46k's. The bottom 2.4 k's of the hill is very smooth "hotmix" bitumen, last 5ish k's is very rough old bitumen. For the rally it's a national rally licence, full cams logbook, ie cage etc. Top speed {for the quick cars} in excess of 200km/hr over the crest beside the SOS point around halfway up. The series 5 rx7 I navigate in was doing aroud 165 last year there, but this year was well clocked off!! {Clock is japanese so only reads to 180} NICE!!!!! Anyone interested can also check out http://groups.msn.com.au/TwinCitiesAutosportsClub So I'm pretty sure that papers are somewhere. Any ideas? Once again thatnks heaps for your help. It's surprising that the world's most sold car is still a bit of a mytery up here in the rally circles. Plenty of knockers saying things like "What do you want to waste your time on that thing for, get an Escort, or a datto..." etc. Would have to agree with you that it's not what you have, it's what you do with it!

The offsets are different, mazdas sit out wider on the early rx rims, but the circa 1980 626 rims are in closer. I'm pretty sure that my rx steelies are 25 p, and I'm sure they're wider. Increased track at the back {Diff end} by 30mm. Hard for me to measure the front becuase of the lowering/different camber. 626 rims appear to be 27 p. Don't know if this was a weird set or common ones, but they sit in more, so it's a fine line near the front struts with slightly fatter rubber. {215 45} I had to space my 16's out 20 mm at the front, and the guy who sold them to me swore that they were "bolt on customs" etc. Seems they are off a series 1/2/3 rx7, and have about 32 p offset. This sets them in nicely on the back guards, where the clearance is sweet, but the front is too close and just rub on the strut if not spaced if my rubber is a little wide. That's with 205 45's, but still varies with brands. I've had up to 20mm difference in tyres that were the "same" profile, but it all varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. I've generally found that the cheap stuff overstates it's width, plus is not as tractable, the better gear has been wider, and stickier but costs more. I'm sick of every tyre I've ever owned and never had rubber that is good. Next time I'm goind for some good stuff, something that's 195/45 and I'm very confident that with the better rubber/get what you pay for etc that I'll have much better results. Oh, btw, lots of places to find a kind soul with a honing machine, even here in hicksville. Last set I got done were honda 100pcd going onto girl cousins "pride and joy" rice burner Daewoo, honed them out 0.4mm-fits great now!! That was free, but retail on a set won't be much as the labour should be 20 mins for a decent fitter/turner. Don't get your hub size wrong cos wheels fall off at the most inconvenient times, for some reason on long lonely stretches, or in state forests seem to be popular! Worth the expense and effort to do this one right methinks.......

This is terrible! He was such an ambassador for Toyota and a champion of motorsport! Toyota will not be the same without him.

No mate, that was the anchor, not the donk!

Love the pics straight off the telly! If in doubt, go with that "Jochaims Razor" principle or however that is spelt. Do you also do other topics, for example news headlines etc??

I'd be careful with a super low rear and high front, it messes up your rake {correct body attitude with the front lower than the back} Basically unbalance your car too much and it will understeer like crazy, almost like a tractor beam for gutters and trees. Esp Trees for some reason, I'm not sure why. Also, in a tiny but still bad way makes your steering wheel relatively higher, so that when you do smack into the immovable object, your forehead is far more likely to push your Saas or Momo steeringwheel inside out! TALK ABOUT UNWANTED HEADACHES!!

Hey, thanks for that! Clearly not a '20 with those rear guards. Homologation seems to be the difficulty with running 2t/3t combos in a ke20, but I'd be willing to guess that it'd be W W W W WAY {Sorry, did I stutter???} more fun than my little 3k plans. BTW, saw the listings for homologation that were posted a while ago, but I'm wondering if there is anywhere handy to find the full papers for a '73 ke20? I'm really keen on plugging away at my current shell, although my other three spare shells are 71's. Plenty of interior to part out as well, because rally/rollcage etc deletes the need for most interior. Not sure how much call there is for it, but I won't need it so it is just a case of finding the time to remove it then a reimburse for postage. I'm not in it for the money/rarity like some, I'm in it for the pure fun of chucking it around at SPEED! I'll have to do one of those profiles at some point, but racing/work plus a wife and four young kids mean that it's more of a time poverty situation then anything else. If the truth be told I'd have those homologation papers by now too, but I'm just to slack to spend the time. Oh crap, seems like my laziness will inevitably lead to a distinct lack of popularity, with such a precedence set at time with people not reading/searching the FAQ'S!

A while ago I saw a pic of Chris with supposedly a green ke-20 he was rallying. {ie log booked/CAMS etc} Confirm? Deny? Is this a sign?

Just wanted to say that after the top tank on my radiator blew up on the highway today I have learned more invaluable lessons, ie my natural instincts once again failed to correctly modify my Toyota, and my homemade radiator overflow pressureised my whole system and now I've got something to do this weekend! At least this swap will be easier as after the last three engines, all since February, I am getting much quicker at an enging swap. At least I still made it to work! On the up side, I have located a nice 4k with some secret squirrell work, and that will be another timeslip tune up Saturday night if possible. As a tip, and belive me I have tested this more than some at least, try not to get the poor little k too hot or the head/headgasget will not be happy. Still building the Freakmotor with the Norton Commando pistons, but I just don't want to rush it. Also, plug up your fire wall if you ditch your heater, cos that hole looks tiny unitl all of that hot, bright red {Rusty} boiling steam comes gushing in. Good thing no passenger in the front, or they'd be a little tener/juicy right now. Can't really offer any helpful advice/info but I'm still lovin' my little spoonfool........

Sorry, forgot to mention that I don't want bounce, not even one ounce..........

Will try this too as the freak is not as low as he can go..............

Should buff out...............no. Sorry, it's no joking matter. When my yellow ke20 was stolen, it took two years for the little pheonix to rise due to fire damage, and even now my once almost totally rust free rarity has way more cancer, so I feel at least something like your pain. Hope that some lowlife's idiocy dosen't take the sparkle off your love for all things fast. Don't let the turkeys stop you flying like an eagle!

75 should be ok if it's in good nick. It's a bit of a personal thing, but sometimes people go at it just like an old/tired motor, and run something a bit heavier if it's a bit worn. If the box is noisy because of gear wear, possibly can help a little to go up to say, 90 weight, or bung in an additive. I have found that all of the promises in the world from these things only result in a small gain, and although it is a gain, it's never a new box again.

Thanks heaps, this is very useful. I'll be making one and trying it out on my Dellortos.

I'm not sure if you are aware, but it is proven without a doubt that blue slows your car down, at least a couple of tenths, also if it's a **rd {Sorry about the language, but I didn't want to swear} factory coded colour, your reliability will be seriously compromised. Would suggest a good rocket red if you are after outright speed, or black if you are going to run moonshine, or enter the new market for "Tax free" UDL's. Green will also stop you from running at Indy, just ask Jack Brabham about this if you don't believe me........................ :)

What does the engine weigh? Sometimes a huge engine might appear attractive, but taking into consideration the extra weight up front etc could be wise before you get too far down the track. Burnouts/drifting etc might be a bit different, but if you like the way your ke corners now, adding extra weight may not improve that, but hey, it would be different and the sound would keep people guessing, for sure!!!!!

All of this depends on what state you're in, but in QLD the 12A has it's capacity doubled, to make it the equivalent of a 2.4 litre non-turbo. Qld rules state that for a mod including brake and diff upgrades, you can triple the listed weight. I believe that ke 10 list weight is 710kgs ie 710 times 3 equals 2130 so a 12a isn't legal in a ke 10 in QLD. The multiplier for supercharged/turbo is 2.5, so 710 by 2.5 is 1775, makes a turbo rotary out of the question as well. Have seen the book on ke20's, as that is my area of interest. The book states that they are 780kg. To then go ahead and make it heavier is quite an involved process, not just simply a case of strapping on some lead to get it by.............ke20, 780 by three is 2340, still not enough for a 12a, let alone a 13b which is more common and avaliable. In QLD there is a threshold for anything up to 1100kgs, on book list weight, and the only exception is for full chassis cars. ke** WON'T apply as none of the corollas are a full chassis affair. Of course, check any of this as it's is the net, and it could all be baloney..........

I guess the thread got a little off track, or should I say ontrack? Something that holds together for 8 laps is probably very different to a grumpy pig that only gets a run every other weekend on Sunday arvo, then yet again, let alone a "Daily driver" on our rubbish unleaded......What kind of compression was it running, and what kind of fuel?

$700 about right for 4 conrods and 3 pistons? I wonder if it's like buying 3 really nice mags at a wreckers for cheap, then finding out that the 4th mag to complete your set is more than the first 3..........can't build a house or hotel until you own the whole set! Wheels maybe just use two on the back or front or whatever, your trailer etc......pistons......you might find that fourth rod is a bit too noisy and scratchy in the bore, just flopping around without a slug on top, plus setting the idle will be more challenging too. So what happened to the mysterious fourth piston? Bet the other three know all about it!

Yeah, that's pretty much it. The pipe on #4 actually goes UP, as well as in toward the intake, so even if I got it to clear by "just enough", I think that heat soak would be an issue. I know it voids warranties etc, as well as severely reduces the lifespan of the pipes, but I want to go with wrapping them. Hopefully this will keep the intake/dellortos as cool as possible. On another issue, I was searching last night for anything on k series to t series bellhousings. We were silly, cos when we got this motor, the guy had a bellhousing, but we didn't get it and now it's gone. I heard that they were a pretty rare, but still factory option. W series boxes don't interest me, weight and size and all of that, but would like to hear about these type of adaptions........esp as have heard that there is a possibility that it means the engine position changes from slant to upright, giving more room for intake/filters. It's pretty tight near the left strut tower, as plenty of people would already know.

So I just looked them up on the hm headers site, are they the "hm38" model? Any idea of primary size? I'm hoping to open up the tiny little exhaust ports to get things flowing and the bigger the better for the primaries.....Ta, Dan.

Hey Tom! So Perry make some then, eh? Would really like to see pics, thanks.

Hey, Thanks for your prompt reply. I should have sent some pics, hey. I'll do that as soon as I get home from work. The issue isn't the bolt area on the side of the head, it's the manifold fouling on the primary from the back exhaust pipe {arcing forward and fouling on the back end of the manifold.}Yes, pics would speak a thousand words at this point, wouldn't they...... So the manifold is a redline for twin webbers/dellortos, I have the twin dellortos and I don't want to have to "Massage" the back pipe as it will not help flow, plus there is the heat issue. I figure that a tuned system, ie 4into 1 will go down off the head more vertically, rather than curving/arcing back.... Perhaps if anyone has a pic of some good 4 into 1 headers, also if anyone knows of any variations in primary size, the bigger the better. I have recently bought a parts engine on ebay from Victoria, it has Norton 850 forgies, a ported head and a rather big cam. I know torque will suffer, and after reading some very helpful stuff from SuperJamie about k series motors I am working through getting a really revvy k series into my ke-20.

HI All! I'm a new member and I live in Townsville, North Queensland. We don't have as many spots to shop up here, and I'm chasing a set of 4 into 1 extractors for my 3k as the other extractors foul on the manifold for the side drafts when I test fitted it. Plus I figure 4 into 1 will have more top end, which is what I want.