irokin

Phew! Looks like the leak may not be what I first suspected. I need to wait for my brother to get home so I can get a jack under it (car has to be pushed onto ramps before I can get my 'low profile' jack under it) but it's looking like it's just a sensor bung that's leaking. Bit of teflon tape should sort that out. BM44 15/16 master (and a booster, but I dunno if I'll use that yet) off an R32 GTSt arrived today so I can look forward to more normal brake balance and get some much needed pedal feel back. This goes in my "after tune" pile of parts. Essentially the entire brake system will get an overhaul before I go back to the track. New brake master, new pads all round, reconditioned calipers all round, slightly used rotors on the front and brand new ones (which arrived from RDA on Friday) on the rear. Stoked :D

It was removed by request of the owner IIRC. I presume because he had concerns about it attracting unwanted attention.

I really love the design, its just it feels like no one at moroso ever actually tried to fit one up to a car with the hardware they supply. I might replace the stud/nut combo at the rear of the sump with allen bolts. Should have a much smaller head and wont clash with the side of the sump.

Annnnd it leaks. Having a "special service tool" made up today to make it easier to get off (SP tools tube socket lathed down to within a micron of its life). I think I know where the fk up is. Car goes to the mechanic on the 7th-ish of September. Aside from the leak and buying a new diff center I've done pretty much all that needs to be done before then. Still looking for a reasonably priced Nismo GT Pro.

Top Gun. Needs less tom cruise. I can't watch it since he went(?) mental, oh and there's the scientology bs as well...

Is it just me or is youtube adding a slight crackle to the low frequency on the left channel on all qualities? I've tried several tracks from different uploaders and all of them seem to have it. I was about to throw out my ATH-AD900s until I tried an original source. Clean as a whistle. Edit: Not there on UKF uploads... Also: Doesn't get much more chilled out than this... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bRGHwPqBgJg

Definitely looking in the wrong place!

Camber thrust? http://www.tonyfoale.com/Articles/Tyres/TYRES.htm Here's a nice graph: http://medlem.spray.se/bmw02hemsida/filer/roadholding/fig-8.gif Sounds like some rubbish high performance product. "Do you need more performance? You need CAMBER THRUST!!!"

Bias or cross ply/Rag tyre. Interesting but, didn't know that!

I used this Dave: y = acos((1300^2+76^2-1300^2)/(2*1300*76)) 90 - 88.32 = 1.68deg increase Ignoring the fact the movements in an arc and slightly longer than the drop. I slept through trigonometry though so I might be way off the mark.

Very roughly it will add 2 degrees. Could be wrong.

I can't see how it would either. On a MacPherson strut though you'll wreck your roll center by moving the upper pivot too far in. They run a full spool diff. Must be a bastard trying to get them to turn in nice on 280 slicks. We don't need no god dang witchcraft LSD! I've run somewhere around 4 degrees camber on the silvia before (old struts had bolt settings that let you lean the knuckle in). It was stupid, reduced braking grip massively, always wanted to lockup and didn't really help handling at all. Currently running about 2.5deg which is about all I can get with the current struts but it looks like heaps. Could do with a little more to stop the tyres wearing on the outside but I can add more castor yet.

Maybe one day... Moroso sump is on, no leaks so far (I love you BlueMax). Oil change takes a full 5 litre bottle now. Don't need to check anymore, just dump the whole thing in there (you watch, one day I'll accidentally get a 6L bottle!). While I love the design, the Americans are less than impressive at precision engineering, at least the price was good. Had to slot two of the holes slightly and some of the nuts are next to impossible to get on the studs without special tools. Hopefully it doesn't leak because I never want to take that thing off with the engine in ever again. http://www.frsport.com/Moroso-20975-SR20DET-Upgraded-Aluminum-Oil-Pan_p_15262.html Going to see the mechanic tomorrow to book the car in, hopefully in early September.

Whoa, didn't see the price. What a steal! Inspiration for you: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7o1ZwGbJls

I never had any doubt :P

I think a lot of the balls-ups I've read about could have been avoided. People doing silly things with the wrong equipment. I think shannons do insurance for the car on the trailer anyway so I might look at that. I've had a poke around under the dash this afternoon but I couldn't find any obvious plugs for controllers. I'd be surprised if there's nothing as the car has the Toyota factory tow kit. I'm looking at a tilta trailer at the moment for the ultimate in lazy loading/unloading but I'm going to rent one first and see if I like it. Need a nice shallow approach, I've got 10cm clearance at the moment which is plenty for most trailers but that will fade fast once I figure out a proper splitter and undertray.

It has been in the past, but every time the software updates I have to redo the code. I've changed it to a few lines of javascript and while you can get around it (the old system was more robust), it doesn't need to be recoded for every software update.

Hrm, I like the looks of that. Whats the deal with this plugin loom stuff? The wiring already exists? :hmm: The breakaway system is supposed to come preinstalled on the trailer with everything it needs. I'll have to double check before I buy it though. Having read about some horror stories of trailers parting company with the tow car, break away brakes are on my "must have" list.

lol, oops

Hey guys, Just made a small tweak to the for sale topic post page. If you have any problems not being able to post please let me know. I've checked with my usual suite of browsers but there's usually one that plays up. This should stop most of the problems with people not selecting a location. Moderators may be seen weeping tears of joy for the next several days. This is normal. Cheers, Ben

So the trailer type I'm looking at getting comes only with electric brakes so I'd need to fit a controller to the Hilux. What are people using or recommend? Trailers gross weight goes up to ~2500kg. Good fitters in Brisbane that aren't going to molest my interior or electrics while taking an arm and half a leg? I know all types of trailer brakes have their good and bad points. I'm almost forced to use electrics because I need breakaway brakes so I can tow broken landbarge GTR's around. Its also handy that you need to have a controller so people can't mooch my trailer :P (Instead they'll mooch my trailer AND my tow car :() Looking at towing long distance as well as up and down steep grades so electrics tick the right boxes for me.

Good solid base :). Autos not such a big problem, plenty of manual cars being parted out. Being SR already will make the conversion a bit less fiddly too once you go DET. Things like aircon and powersteering will hookup much more easily. Love Onevias, its worth it just for the better headlights!

Bank transfers/direct deposit. Why the hell aren't interbank transfers instantaneous yet? Annoying...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TCXwgPZXScM M1A1, 1500shp 2500ish ft.lb ... by my reconing thats a 26 second startup sequence. 0:32-0:58. And to be honest the response from that looks no worse than some of the ~300kw mine trucks I've been in. As far as I'm aware the Abrams engine uses a free power turbine setup. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bE56Nf6lsSQ MD500 ~200-300kW much longer start because power is taken directly off the shaft (IIRC) so the engine is under load from start. Could remedy this in a car though so there's no load while starting up. 52 seconds, 2:29-3:21 You need to remember in aviation engines are designed largely around cruise performance rather than responsiveness. They're more responsive at higher thrust levels, thus flaps are there to create lots of drag (and some extra lift) to allow higher thrust levels while landing where there's more response needed. Ever noticed how the engines sound like they're working hard just before landing? Unless you're riding in a C-17 doing a tactical approach that isn't reverse thrust. Also, the idea isn't to use the thrust of the engine to propel the car. Massively inefficient at low altitudes. You use the thrust to turn a free power turbine (or take power directly off the turbines shaft) and use that to turn the wheels. You could employ various methods of transmitting the power to the wheels in order to compliment the behavior of the turbine. Personally I think an electric system could work fairly well. Just because the engines behave in certain ways necessitated by their use in aircraft doesn't mean they have to carry those design parameters into vehicles as well.

Hrm interesting, I doubt it will ever make it to production with the turbines though. I thought the Chrysler had a variable vanes on the free power turbine so snapping the throttle shut would result in no torque. I think it could even reverse the vanes to produce engine breaking? Its been a while since I've read into those cars though.