love ke70

you have likely knocked something off in the engine bay getting to clutch cable etc etc etc how did you check for spark? oil in the plug well as was said before, pull the aluminium wells out, with the plugs out they lift out. they will have a very old Oring behind them, clean it all up, and use some RTV or high temp red sealant around the oring and slip them back in, making sure the sealing surface is oil free. then put the spark plugs back in, but only just nipped, you don't want to squash all the sealant out once it dries, 24 hrs, tighten everything down. should fix the issue if done right. or get new Orings. but good luck :P I reckon you have knocked the lead from coil to dizzy off or something :)

how the shit did you break that? I don't think I have one, but I am sure plenty of people would have a second hand one if you put up a wtb thread in the wanted section of the classifieds. Cheers, Andy

reads fine for me mate

As opposed to your push rod I4? Very astute of you, but the only pushrod V8 I own is in my stateman and it needs no playing, just abusing. and you would not have known about that unless you really did some research. as you will find in my signature I have a project which uses no pushrods. and my pushrod powered diesel will likely make more HP/L than your crossplane 3K, because I invest my resources in appropriate ways instead of contemplating cutting and shutting a crank... so please, carry on, but understand that not everyone will wet themselves with excitement about an idea that is likely to yield large financial and time losses and result in no more HP than the original crank and a possible power delivery improvement in a vehicle that will likely never be driven so close to the edge that it will have a marked difference. but please, do go on...

Nice post, hopefully some people see it, theres a bloke out the back of me who I think I need to have a talk to for the same reason..

Thanks, I may get some :) for anyone playing at home, this is a good little video. I wish my welder had come with a similar table. the more I watch a good welder in action the more I think I am due a new machine...

good to know, thanks. so it doesnt stop the spatter, it just makes it easy to clean away?

that shit works?

What welder is this that is struggling with anything over 3mm? I have a old (10 years ish and was $600 then) gas/gasless SIP 150 mig, which is a massive heap of shit and I hate it everytime it ʞ©$ɟs me around, but I can't justify a better one yet because when it works it works great, although its currently not working on a couple of power settings. its basically 6 power levels with variable feed speed. has to be used on the lowest speed if not it wont keep a good arc and currently wont run on high/high, so high/medium is the most i can get, and that will burn holes in 3mm on a good day if you let the heat concentrate too much, so I am surprised you can't get penetration on a 4 or 5mm work piece with your (what I assume is newer) 160. I don't use gas, my poxy welder is setup for the poxy little bottles and the reg is stuffed and empties a bottle in minutes, very fkn annoying, so I just weld gasless all the time, yes it spatters, no its not the end of the world, get a breeze through your shed? your better with gasless. there are two things very annoying about gasless, 1 the spatter and how it rolls down your jocks when you weld on your back under the car 2, the smoke from the flux in the gasless wire that has to be wire wheeled off everything and clouds up your helmet etc etc. but that said, a good weld can be obtained, but I don't think I would use it on panel work... Oh and lastly, while a tafe course is good, there is heaps of welding threads on the net tutorials etc etc, I havnt read or watched any of them, and my welding get good penetration and looks neat 90% of the time. It took me years but it can be self taught, and you can always grind back and go again, I did all the panel work in my first corolla, which really taught me a bit about welding panel work. Cheers, Andy

Hilux sorta sucks in the LSD department R31 would be my pick, can get good limo centres for those. unless of course you wanna lock it, then go hilux if you want

Why not through 1g Rods in it then see what pistons you can get once you measure pin height. I could measure a set up for you. Theyfdo fit though, I have tried myself and posted results in a thread on here. Cheers, Andy

Not bad, how much for one done in just a single colour? Cheers

Is that free air delivery or piston displacement?

I'm listening...

What are the specs on the Stanley ones? Air tools use an amazing amount of air

Pilot air is who I use Thats what I have, the pumps are italian made which is very important, http://www.norwesttools.com.au/page/shop/flypage/product_id/13/a/category/e/aircompressors this is 15 amp 3hp not 2.25 hp. if you had the extra coin and 15 amp was available I would go this, looking at the specs its 20kg heavier with the same size reciever, its 12CFM is FAD, not piston displacement. thats something very important you should check on, the cheaper compressors have good CFM but when you look at their FAD CFM its shit. A bit like speaker, 500W but its only 50w RMS, if you know what I mean... http://www.pilotair.com.au/Products/ReciprocatingAirCompressors/240VoltBeltDriven-SUPERDUTY.aspx or similar its a big benefit having a true 12CFM compressor running only 2.25 hp, as you have alot less issues on start up and when running on extension leads. hope this helps anyway

whats your budget? and whats your power supply? 10 amp 15 amp or 3 phase? what I'm thinking is about $900 but will last beyond your death... IE mine is in trade use daily in a hot trailer and in 7 years ive replaced a belt and a switch tower and 2 oil changes... please don't buy a tradetools compressor, if you have a tradetools in your area that is. Cheers, Andy

you can also check for the wire going down to the sensor at the end of the CV.

for what purpose do you require the motor?

I would suggest any local bolt supplier before you go to a general hardware for something like this. your the one who said you didnt care mate, I'm just trying to help this bloke not get himself into a world of hurt with a snapped stud and having to pull the motor out a third time...

and mild steel will work better. thats the trouble with you people who think you know best. the bloke is having an issue with stripping nuts, likely due to over tightening, and you want to suggest something that will strip or snap easy. sensational.

not those ones specifically, but they didnt come in the block, so they will come out, so bolt off or rost off for a day, then vice grips and they will come out I should imagine. you can practice the 2 nuts technique if your that way inclined. to further Reed's statement re stainless bolts. Stainless is a very hard metal to work with and it hard on tooling, ie, to drill through it or cut a thread on it is hard, but to tighten a nut on a stainless bolt it is easy to strip the thread or snap it in half from the twisting force. just like when you try and run a stainless screw in, your much more likely to strip the head or snap it than you are with a steel screw. Cheers

stainless will let you down. its terrible for bolts. high tensile yes. replace studs with new standard ones should be more than enough if the sump is straight and the gasket is good. if one of these things is not right, it doesnt matter what you do it wont leak. A sump nut only needs to be a twerk more than finger tight really.

just for the record, NQX in my experience is ʞ©$ɟed, E-go door to door is awesome for most things I do, never had a single issue or breakage I did an engine depot to door brisbane to sydney and it was pretty easy and a fair price from what I recall

good luck guys! a pre race paddock bash, thats the closest you guys have got to testing isnt it? :P Cheers, Andy