rian

EDIT: All the photos are sideways for some reason. CBF changing it. Got some time to replace the rain main seal as well. The seal came with the carrier gasket so I replaced that as well with a bit of Ultra Black in there for good measure. Carrier out: Cleaned up the mounting surface: New seal and gasket in: New pump: While I was there I sealed up the oil dipstick because it looked to be leaking. Then I had a dig at replacing the gearbox seals. Input seal was super easy, output seal was pretty shit. Pulled the input thingy off: Pulled the old seal out and cleaned up the seat: New seal in with a bit of grease on the inner lip: The old gasket was fine so I reinstalled it with some Ultra Black: Now for the output seal. What a pain in the butt. I removed the output shroud thingy and it looked fairly straight forward to remove the seal: I initially though "oh yeah I'll just pry it out". Didn't work. Then I tried to drill it, drive in some screws and pull it out with pliers. Didn't work. Then I thought "ʞ©$ɟ it, I'll just pull the extension housing off" Pulled the extension housing off, old cruddy oil everywhere: Then I tried to pry it out again now that I could actually get some leverage. Didn't work. I ended up needing to use my spigot bearing puller to get it out, and even then it was pretty tight: Cleaned up the seat and chucked the new seal in: Then onto the speedo pinion seal. The pinion gear housing was fairly tight and took a bit of force to get out, I didn't replace the O-ring because I forgot to get one and it was dark by this time. Got the housing out: Pulled the pinion gear out and found the seal inside, wondered "how the ʞ©$ɟ am I going to get this out?": But lucky I had an M12 bolt that threaded into the seal tightly, then I secured the speedo pinion housing in the vice and used a smaller bolt and a hammer to tap it out from the other side. Worked a treat: Pressed the new seal in with a deep socket and chucked the pinion gear housing back in the extension housing, then I wrestled the extension housing back onto the gearbox (ʞ©$ɟing shifter forks were so fiddly, especially when your workbench is a milk crate) and sealed it up with more Ultra Black. If I get anymore gearbox leaks i'm going to be pissed.

This sounds like the problem I was having, I had compression figures across all 4 of around 100PSI when dry and 180-190PSi when wet. I decided to replace the engine :y:

looks ten times better than when you bought it :y:

anti-lame

lame

I pulled the old engine while I waited for parts to get the new engine ready: Then the new seals arrived: I started pulling out the old seals: Cam seals out: Front main seal out. I may have put a tiny scratch in the crank :osama: but I hit it with some wet 2000 grit and it came up pretty smooth, hopefully it doesn't chew the new seal: New cam seals in: New crank seal in: Will do the cam cover seals, dizzy o-ring, dipstick o-ring, rear main and carrier gasket another day. I've also got front, rear and speedo drive gearbox seals to replace too. Hopefully this will fix all the leaks.

pics or ban yourself.

Soz

dammmmmmmmm

Nek minnit guy says he hasn't got the money as he was going to borrow it off his mum but she lost her job after getting arrested for being drunk and trying to steal a vending machine.

The timing pulley actually came off with 2 screwdrivers and I didn't break anything. So lucky! I also ordered new front main seal, rear main seal, cam seals, cam cover seals, spark plug cover seal, dizzy o-ring, timing belt kit and intake and exhaust gaskets. No more leaks hopefully! The engine was so gross and oil when I got it.

The only reason I'm hesitant to do it is because too many people said they've either stuffed the pulley of broken the oil pump. I guess I could give it a whirl with some screwdrivers. Or I might buy a 2 arm puller off ebay? I've already spent $100 on tools I'll probably never use again just to get this far :abuse:

The new 4A was super oily when I got it: it was leaking from the cam covers, the cam seals and the distributor. I cleaned it all up really well, I needed 3 cans of degreaser :blinks: I'm going to replace all the gaskets and seals before I chuck it in, but I'm not too sure I can be f'd replacing the front main seal. That crank pulley looks like a pain in the butt to get off and I don't have the tool for the job, it didn't seem to be leaking from there anyway. Is it really worth replacing while the engine is out? Anyway, here's the current state of the engine:

I also bought 16 x super long wheel studs: (Picture is not of my car, just for reference)

Some of you may know the problems I've been having with this car lately, I initially thought it was the coil causing the issue so I replaced it and it made no difference. But now I think I've fixed it, with this: It's a complete 4AGE + T50 setup. I'm going to sell off the crap I don't need and hopefully I'll end up with a cheap engine. I scored a RWD intake manifold and RWD cooling setup too :y: So I got it home and started pulling it apart to replace all the seals and gaskets. Popped the cam covers off to check what it looks like inside: Ehhhhh, I've got no idea what I'm supposed to be looking for, it just looks like an engine to me. Then I pulled the gearbox, clutch and flywheel off and discovered ARP flywheel bolts (score) and this (not a score): The inside race of the spigot bearing had exploded. It came out in piece, and then I was left with this: Just the outside race of the spigot bearing stuck in the crank. I struggled with this for a couple of hours: tried the grease trick, tried levering it out, tried hooking it and slide hammering it out. I eventually went to Repco and bought a spigot bearing puller, still no luck - the arms on the puller weren't sharp enough to get between the race and the tapered end of the hole in the crank, I had to sharpen it up for about half an hour but I eventually got there: So now I'm waiting to borrow a engine crane then I'm going to pull the old engine and chuck this one straight back in.

Dat cooling system haha! This looks like it would be heaps of fun though. How do you find the 8kg springs up front?

Yeah it's pretty sad, minimum allowable compression is like 125 PSI according to the manual. I'm still surprised it won't even fire on 120 PSI though. That's a good idea, I could hire one. I just discovered my brother owns one but he lives 2 hours away, I might make the drive. Yeah it's really weird, one day it was running sweet - would rev to ~8000rpm and felt really strong. The next drive it just wouldn't rev properly at all, as soon as I started it it was running weird and anything passed 1/4 throttle would make it splutter and misfire. The next time I tried to start it it wouldn't go. There was a few weeks between when it was running perfectly and the first time it wouldn't start, but there was only one drive in that period - it literally went bad in zero running time.

Maybe you have a mosquito stuck in your air filter and the low pressure gives him a headache?

I messed around with this thing again this afternoon. Got a good battery, compression numbers are from 1st to 4th: Dry: 120, 70, 120, 120 Wet: 220, 240, 230, 240 I used a lot of oil... The weird thing was it fired up momentarily after the wet compression test, it did it last time I tried a wet comp test too. So I've decided it's the compression causing the no start condition. Either way 70psi is not good. So I decided the engine is coming out. Fuel sprayed everywhere when I pulled the fuel rail off so I guess there is pressure. I checked the inlet manifold for debris/mud wasps - was pretty clean inside. I managed to get the manifold and fuel rail/injectors off and tape up the holes before it got dark. I'll do the rest another day, I still don't know how I'm going to get the engine out, I don't own a crane nor anywhere I can hook a block and tackle. I might just get some mates together and lift it out with 2x4s and some rope haha

:y: I'm loving how technical/well documented this thread is.

Not yet. The pumps are priming and there is definitely fuel at the rail but I have no pressure tester to test for pressure. I'd be grateful for a lend of one if someone in Brisbane has one ;)

Yep, I've pulled the plugs out of the engine, inserted them back into the spark plug leads and then held the threads of the plug against the engine while cranking it over and there is a nice blue spark. I think you're right about compression, because after I did the wet compression test I put the plugs back in while there was still oil in the cylinders and it fired straight up and ran for about 5 seconds before dying, presumably once it had blown the oil past the rings and lost compression. So now the issue is: do I rebuild it or just buy a new long block? At the moment I'm leaning towards a new long block because it will probably be cheaper, and that means a lot to a uni student.

Hey man, that's offensive to spacers.

Yep, the distributor is pointing to no.1 when no.1 cylinder is at the top of it's compression stroke (checked it with a screwdriver in the spark plug hole), and the timing mark on the crank pulley is pointing to 0. I'll chuck another earth on the head if it's meant to have one. I never installed one when I did the engine swap I don't think. Yeah the gears have little timing dots stamped into them, then they have been painted over with white paint. I' don't understand what you're saying about having two inlet cam gears. The gears are probably the same for inlet and exhaust, but the knock pins are meant to be in different orientations when the timing marks line of with the backing plate.

I don't think I have that. I definitely have a block to chassis earth but I can't remember there being a head to chassis earth. I'll suss it tomorrow :y: