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rian

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Everything posted by rian

  1. They are dope, get those! Just run some spacers.
  2. Looks epic except for those XXR lady finger banana spokes
  3. I'm considering doing this. At the moment I have nothing to tow it with, plus it would be a tremendous effort to get it out of my driveway. If I can get some friends around I might give this a go. Thanks for the pointers Altezzaclub, If I try this I'll let you know how I go. Do you mean the earth for the injectors that bolts to the intake manifold? Or is there another one? I haven't checked the earths for the head, but I know the injectors are firing. I'll have another look at this. I've never checked cam timing before, and forgot to take notice of the knock pins. But you're right, they should be opposite.
  4. Today I cranked this thing over just hoping it would start, but it didn't. I pulled the spark plugs out and they were covered in fuel, swapped them for new spark plugs and installed the spare ECU. Plugged it in, no error codes, cranked engine - didn't start. New spark plugs were covered in fuel again after ~5 seconds cranking, the whole thing smells like fuel. Then I checked the cam timing: Set to TDC: distributor rotor pointing to no. 1, no one at TDC, 0* timing mark on crank pulley. Intake cam gear: marks line up Exhaust cam gear: marks line up What I want to do: - Leak down test: I don't own a compressor or a leak down tester, if someone wants to help me out I'd be super appreciative. - Test fuel pressure: again, I don't own a fuel pressure tester, the little screw on top of the pressure damper looks to have lifted up implying that there is pressure. - Pull the engine and rebuild it, replace it or light it on fire.
  5. It's probably 2 months old, I think it is 98 octane too. I thought this could be a problem so I disconnected the EFI main relay and try to get it to fire with Aerostart/Start Ya Bastard and still nothing. I've always had success finding fuel issues by using Aerostart, even on this same engine when my fuel pump fell off the intake pipe a year ago - fired straight up on Aerostart. But I will take this into consideration, I will drain it when it stops raining :y: Good point. I have a spare ECU that I bought from you a year ago, I'll chuck that in and see how I go. I remember Reed's ECU failed and it wouldn't start. I'll give this a try, I've never checked cam timing but I've got the 4AGE manual to guide me. Thanks.
  6. I have a spare ECU, I'll give it a try tomorrrow :y: Get outta here you sellout. But really you should hang around, not near my car though.
  7. I had another dig at this this afternoon. MAP Sensor: - I checked the map sensor vacuum line and it was fine. I disconnected it and tried to start the engine - still won't go. Even when I disconnect the EFI main relay and try to run it on Aerostart/Start Ya Bastard it still won't fire. Spark: - I didn't get to check for any spark leaks around the insulators because there was no one here to help me crank the engine. - I noticed that every time I pulled the spark plugs out they were covered in fuel. Compression Test: - This time I did it properly: plugs out and W.O.T. The battery is pretty much toast and I keep having to recharge it - it goes flat by the end of the compression test, so the results are pretty inconsistent. Anyway the results were, from 1st to 4th cylinder this time: Dry: 120, 120, 100, 90 Wet: 190, 190, 100, 80 (battery was flat by the end of it) I then chucked some more oil in each cylinder, put the plugs and leads back on and it fired up and ran really rough for about 5 seconds then died. I then kept cranking it and it would splutter and cough but wouldn't start. It started to crank really fast too - definitely has low compression. This all seems really weird to me: The engine ran perfectly not that long ago, it's mostly been sitting for the last few months - hardly driven, it never burnt any oil or blew any smoke and now it's suddenly died. It ran rough one day and would misfire and struggle to get over 40km/h, then the next time I try to start it it won't start. I'm going to check the cam timing/timing belt and if that's fine I might pull the engine. Anyone got any other ideas?
  8. I have tried to start it without the TPS connected but it still wouldn't start and Code 7 (TPS) and Code 11 (Air-con switch in TPS) came up in diagnostic mode. I will try it without the MAP sensor and see how it goes. Thanks Dave. Hey Matt, what I mean about the large spark is that when I pull the main lead off the distributor and hold it close to an earth point and crank the engine it will spark from the end of the main lead to the earth point, up to about a 20mm gap. With the main lead connected to the distributor and the engine cranking I couldn't see or hear any spark shorting or leaking out from any of the lead insulators. I've been using dielectric grease or all the lead boots to prevent leaking any spark. But I will check this again tonight in the dark to make sure.
  9. That's my go-to technique. Rarely works :pirate:
  10. This is what I was thinking. I can't see why it won't run if there is spark, correct timing and fuel, unless there isn't enough fuel pressure or something? The timing light will work when I crank it, which means the engine must be sparking. I just realised this a little while ago. I had the plugs out but forgot to open the throttle haha :hammer: I'll try it again tomorrow!
  11. Will check this tomorrow when there's light. I had another go at it this afternoon. There is a good spark, like 20mm long, if I earth the coil lead while cranking. The plugs have good spark when earthed. Then I did a compression test with my cheapo compression tester... From 4th to 1st cylinder: 100, 120, 150, 100 respectively. And this is with a decent battery that I borrowed. Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck. Is that enough to stop it from running though?
  12. Hey RC, So my 4AGE KE70 has been having some issues lately. The last time I drove it the engine would splutter and pop and the car couldn't exceed ~40km/h. It has been sitting for about 3 weeks and now it won't start. It cranks fine but just doesn't fire up. The engine is out of an '87 Corolla (7 rib Bigport if it makes any difference). The things I've checked so far: Spark: - The distributor lead will create an orange spark about a 1/2 inch long when cranking. - The spark plugs will create a reasonably strong spark, but the spark is still orange and not blue. - I have replaced the coil with a brand new unit. The old coil had pretty high resistance when it was installed, but has since been bench tested and the resistance was OK but still not great. The new one was 0.75 ohms on the primary coil, 11K ohms on the secondary coil. - The ignitor/coil combo have been "bench" tested by running 3 volts through the ignitor with the coil positive hooked directly to a battery, and it created a solid 1/2 inch spark out of the coil lead. The spark was still orange. - The coil has 12.2 volts at the positive terminal when installed in the car. Fuel: - The pumps will prime and I'm assuming it's creating pressure. - When I checked the plugs after cranking they were wet and smelled of fuel. - I have not tested the injectors - I don't have an injector tester/LED test light. - The fuel is probably 2 months old. - Aerostart/Start Ya Bastard doesn't help. Here's how the plugs looked: Timing: - I haven't touched the timing since initially setting it when I installed the engine. I checked it today and it was at 10* at cranking. Other: - In diagnostic mode, only Code 1 comes up - which means there is no fault. - Engine earth strap is secure. - Battery is kind of shit, has low capacity but volts are ok: 12.4 to 12.6 when charged. - The engine seems to crank well, isn't slow or anything. - I don't think the head gasket is blown, there is no milky goo under the oil cap and compression was around 150PSi last time I had it checked - I have no idea what cams are in it, probably stock. Can anyone think of any other issues that might cause a "no start" condition? I'm pretty sick of fiddling with it. My next step is to borrow a battery and chuck in my spare ECU. If that does nothing I might punch it.
  13. rian

    Rians Ke70

    So I fitted my T3 shift kit, got syked, went to start the car for a test drive - flat battery. Charged the battery, went to start car - wouldn't start. Remembered this issue: So I began looking for the problem: Pulled the fuel line and ran the fuel pump - fuel came through. Pulled the plugs and checked them - wet with fuel and some of the insulation was cracked. Tested the leads and plugs by earthing them out while cranking - got an orange spark and no "crack" sound. Measured the resistance of the leads - between 0.8K and 1.2K ohms :y: Measured the resistance of the coil - 18 bazillion ohms :osama: :n: So I bought ordered a new coil and got some new plugs too. I just want to test the new short shifter.
  14. I run 55/100W H4s in my KE70 with Narva housings. High beam is excellent, low beam is terrible.
  15. That's pretty good! :y: What's up with the squeal noise? It sounds like a belt or maybe a bearing?
  16. It's bizare how many people don't care about light output and buy them just for the slight colour change, some of the blue/white ones at Supercheap are close to $100!
  17. rian

    Rians Ke70

    I bought a second hand T3 short shifter: And I bought some bonnet pins. At the moment I can actually see my bonnet flexing at 100km/h and it's super rusty around the latch 8S
  18. That thing's pretty cool, although I still reckon you should have got a postie.
  19. I once read Animal Farm, that was a good book. Oh and I read a couple of Tim Winton books too. I like him. And I read The Book Theif - also a good book. I haven't read any of the Harry Potter books though, they're supposed to be pretty good as well. Do you like Harry Potter Altezzaclub?
  20. ^This. KE70Dave put me on to Roadkill/Motor Trend Chanel and it rules.
  21. James May should do the show by himself.
  22. Isn't it inside the boot near the boot latch?
  23. Would you part out an exhaust valve and the indicator stalk??
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