rian

Ever learn trigonometry?

Zowie, I will give you a rep point for every post in this thread if you tell us what it is.

The black wire on the left is ignition, like Rob said join this to either end of the ballast resistor (little white rectangular block under near the coil in the picture) and then join the wire from the coil positive (the wire with the white plug on the right in the picture) to the other end of the ballast resistor. The plug in the middle does nothing from memory, it must have been for a factory option or something? If it doesn't work then your ballast resistor is screwed or your points are stuffed/have the wrong gap etc.

it's not a H2 is it?

I had one of these. They're so much fun but they are the worst to maintain — everything breaks. I'm going to guess and say some kind of exposed frame scooter or euro pushbike/scooter combo.

Mine are 15x7" +19... do you really want them? Why not just chuck decent wide tyres on your 15x9s and run flares or something? They are awesome looking wheels and they're not that heavy are they?

Reed plz

Looks awesome!

:y: Then it's okay, just replace them soon.

You need a Repco Trade Card to get trade price, you can usually just fill out a form in store that gets sent to their head office, then they send you back a card. It may take a couple of weeks to get the card, but they may give you the trade discount then and there if you fill out the form in the store. I don't know what the criteria are for a trade card application but it wouldn't hurt to try. Otherwise you could ask your friends/family if anyone has a trade card.

I wouldn't recommend it, but I don't see any reason why you can't drive with a leaking from damper. It has probably been leaking for ages and you only just noticed. Leaking dampers usually just makes your car bouncy due to the suspension being underdamped, however if the suspension has sagged on the front left it may change your wheel alignment slightly.

341338 is a KYB part number not a Monroe part number, and they don't come with springs because you don't usually replace the springs. Going off the KYB part number you gave us I'm assuming you have a ZZE122R Corolla. I just looked it up and a pair of aftermarket KYB dampers will cost you ~$380 for both the fronts and ~$250 for both the rears from Supercheap Auto, so $630 all up. But Supercheap Auto will not give you trade price, if you can get the trade price from Repco then go with that. KYB are good quality, as are Monroe. That is an American thing, I've never encountered it here in Australia. $72 is not bad for a pair of spring compressors, and is definitely cheaper than paying someone to change the dampers for you.

To give you an idea, I bought a 2004 Corolla (200 000kms) for $4000 with a slipping clutch one year ago, and at the time all the other Corollas of the same age were around $6000 to $7000. I'd say you could get close to $4000 for your car if you fixed all the problems. But you almost always lose money fixing stuff just to sell it, I find it's better to just sell stuff as is than it is to sink money into it and try and sell it. But if I were you and I were planning on keeping the car, I'd fix what I could myself then pay the mechanic to do the rest. Like what Parrot said, the dampers are not hard to change with a decent tool kit and some spare time, and they are pretty cheap from Repco/Autobahn/Supercheap Auto. I just looked it up and a pair of aftermarket KYB dampers will cost you $380 for the fronts and $250 for the rears from Supercheap Auto. Wipers are like $15. Coolant flush is super easy - just remember to bleed the system afterwards. Then pay the mechanic to change the serpentine belt and the inner CV boot and be glad you don't own a Volkswagon. Or if you're not planning on keeping the car, just sell it as is.

Yeah I dunno. My car sucks butt and I'm too lazy to fix it.

Tried to drive this thing today and it just backfires like crazy under load, makes zero power etc. Was pretty fun though smashing through my neighbourhood flat out going forty shooting flames and shit. I'll look at it tomorrow and see what's up. :hammer:

Have you seen the new F1 cars that have electric turbos? They have a generator/electric motor linking the shaft between the compressor and the turbine, where the generator limits the boost pressure/turbine rpm by turning excess exhaust energy into electricity which is stored and then fed back into the electric motor to spool the turbo quickly when engine rpm is low. It's absolutely genius.

^This. A year is about all you will get from a dodgy rust repair from what I've seen.

Is the tailshaft a mix-n-match job? Did you get it balanced? Although it would cause more of a vibration than a wobble.

Isn't that a 1ZZ in the picture?

Do a skid?

Mixing oils is okay :y:

Isn't this what causes clutch shudder?

4A external thermostat housings have a spare M16x1.5 threaded port, why not just chuck the 4K temp sensor in there? That seems like the easiest solution to me. Edit: I did it on mine, see post #322: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/56218-rians-ke70/page__st__315

Only the cables from manual gearboxes will work - auto speedo cables are different. Cables from earlier models (KE55, KE30 etc) will also fit.