rian

I'll come! How does it work, do we have to register or something?

How much heat comes off the exhaust near the slave cylinder now that it is heat wrapped? Can you touch it? I'll probably have to do this too.

Spacer goes in the top according to T3, I have the T3 upper spring seats also. 15s look fine on KE70s, besides this is a track car not a fully hectic JDM wannabe car. ^What I was thinking.

Firstly there are two types of lights: sealed and semi-sealed. If you haven't got semi-sealed lights you can't change the bulb, got to Repco and buy some semi-sealeds. Then look into upgrading the bulb. If you have got semi-sealeds, I'm pretty sure they use a H4 bulb. You can go into pretty much any auto store and buy brighter bulbs, like these for example, 100% more light: Secondly there is a wiring upgrade you can do: http://www.ke70.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1856&mode=linear The first option is probably easier.

I saw 4AGE RWD extractors on AE86DC for $25 yesterday(I think?), they may still be there. Edit: Just checked and they were sold. But other than that I'd probably wrap the exhaust, that stuff works pretty well.

ke70Dave was telling about this the other day, apparently the proximity of the exhaust to the slave cylinder depends on the brand of extractors you have, different brands of extractors sit different distances from the slave cylinder. You could try changing your extractors? By the way HEL do braided clutch lines and you can order them through Supercheap Auto, all their stuff is ADR approved as well. If you call them they can also make them in whatever size/fittings you require. HEL Performance: 07 3869 3016 Pretty sure SQ Engineering do them as well?

Heaps keen on doing RC stuffs! I missed the last cruise so I'm definitely coming on the next one in the blue car.

You are so lucky to be able to afford all this awesome stuff! I'm very jealous :happy:

Sealed I think. I'm going to contact T3 and see if this happens often.

I just put it all back together, the noise randomly stopped. Though the camber plate bearing still does not spin, instead the shock shaft spins inside the shock. I've never really paid attention as to what part normally spins: the bearing in the camber plate or the shock shaft inside the shock. So I'm not sure whether this is a good result or not, but as long as it doesn't wear the shock out any quicker than normal I couldn't really care :happy:

Thanks Zeph! So lately I've noticed a squeaking/twisting sounds coming form my suspension in the blue KE70 when I turned. I assumed that the spring seat was somehow binding to the camber plate. But when I popped the bonnet and got someone to turn the steering wheel with the wheels still on the ground it appeared that the upper spring seat was spinning with the spring. Though it definitely made a funny sound when the wheels were turning. I decided to pull it all out and check what was going on, and what I found was that my T3 camber plate bearings were not spinning. WTF?! I only just put them in and they've already stopped working! I think I might contact T3 and see what the go is. I was also wondering if it made any difference if the little spacer thing went in the bottom or top of the bearing, I've been using it in the top. Refer to pictures below: Spacer thing in the top: Spacer thing in the bottom:

Those wheels are so good! I hear they are crazy light, did you weigh one before you put the tyres on?

I wish I had a KE70 project car when I was 16. It looks really neat, good job with the mods!

Also in T18s the pedal box is supposedly part of the dash frame and so I had to get the pedal box cut out (I think the guys at the wreckers were just being lazy because the other T18 pedal boxes I've seen don't appear to be that way), so I'm not sure but I may have to trim the top part of the pedal box to get it to fit into the brown KE70. Here's a side view of the pedal box: Also ordered myself a Exedy heavy duty clutch kit. I'm getting shit done! ...slowly.

Okay so I managed to get a T18 pedal box, master cylinder, slave cylinder and clutch line. One step closer: I specifically requested to get all the bolts and springs and stuff and they actually remembered! When I bring the car home I'll get my friend who can weld to stick the steering column mount from the KE70 pedal onto the T18 pedal box so my steering wheel doesn't get pushed to the side like it would if I were to just put the T18 pedal box straight in.

I'm looking forward to any future mods to the T18, because I know the plans are wild!

Just brushed my teeth with an electric toothbrush for the first time... holy shit! It's like a cut and polish for your teeth.

Bummer man. Remember what I said about PB! lol

Unfortunately the wheels have to wait until the engine is in and engineered, but I think when I'm ready to get wheels I will probably get the Rota Grids, providing they still make them when the conversion is finished lol. Do they use shank nuts instead of the tapered ones? Does the shop do other type of wheels, second hand maybe? BTW your car looks seriously epic with white wheels! Maybe if I had the money, superlites are supercool. Hey dude you should come down with Luke next Sunday when he comes to get those springs/suss out my POS car. I hope the cruise goes well tomorrow buddy. In other news I sussed out a new clutch for the T50, I'll probably get a heavy duty exedy clutch. I also discovered that Supercheap Auto can order in HEL braided brake/clutch lines, so I'll be getting a braided clutch line as well... soon.

Heaps bummed that I have to work and then go to the airport. I'll be there for the next one!

I'm so excited for you! You get to go on a track! :blush:

Wowzers! I'll definitely be wearing protective clothing then. I will have to give that a try later on once I've finished the engine swap. I've also been looking into wheels. These look so bawss, they're the same as Spencers wheels. I want them: They are so cheap and fairly light, I wonder about the quality though... (For peeps who've never seen them before they're TE37V rip-offs called Rota Grid-Vs)

What about the incorrect tacho reading? My tacho was reading incorrectly for a while until I realised that having the ignitor module too close to the ignition coil was causing it too read about 1000rpm too high, when I remounted the ignition coil further away from the coil the tacho problem stopped. It may be worth checking on your car.

Hey Reed I'll trade you moneys for your Nardi...

My new car doesn't have any rust either... butthead.