i have done a search and havent come up with much

 

I'm using ke20 front struts with ke55 brakes and standard strut tops, i got myself a pair of ford escort KMAC adjustable strut tops, they were all good and they fitted right in there fine, until i tryed to adjust them or get some camber but when they more the whole bottom section moves from the other part so there is no room around the edge to put any camber on, i have read about using GH sigma LCA's for about 3 deg, will these fit the ke20, is there a better way of doing it??? and will TA22 struts fit in it? if so will i need different tie rod ends, just need a definate answer

 

cheers james

anybody???

 

cmon someone must know

orrite, ill take a stab at this..

 

my guess is that even though the esky strut tops bolt up, they are large enough to have no real adjustment in them. fix is either take the struts out and belt the bejesus out of the strut mounts, or get proper ke20 strut tops.

 

ta22 struts do fit, but require some work. ke20 strut tops, a balljoint adaptor and I'm pretty sure different tie rods, brake hoses etc.

 

siggy control arms are 300mm ish long. they may fit (i havent mesured ke20 arms yet) but i think they will be too long, and even if they arent they require mods to fit.

 

heres a good link for ya to read

 

http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=14688

 

http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=13217

I'll get back to you........

I will be watching Rob. I was thinking of just drilling out the mounting holes in the top of the strut mount and then leaning it over. Cover it up with a strut bar so you can't tell I've hacked the top.

Rose-jointed lower control arms would be the way to go.

 

Word on the street is that they can now be tested by engineers for structural integrity. :lol:

I'm running a redrilled crossmember as well as moving the strut tops in a wee bit.

id rather not go with rose joints as it will probably end up costing too much, how would ke30 ones be, are they any longer???

 

coln72: have you got any pics of the crossmemberas in were you drilled it???,

 

I'm trying to do it on the cheap

id rather not go with rose joints as it will probably end up costing too much, how would ke30 ones be, are they any longer???

 

No. Ive measured KE20 and KE30 myself. Not a massive difference, but enough to add more positive camber :lol:. Unfortunately for you, KE20s have the longest control arm out of the K series AFAIK.

 

Sigma control arms may be the way to go. They add a fair bit on KE70s but probably a better amount on a KE20. Measure first though ;)

Sorry mate, no pics as it was done way before I got a digital camera. Just redrilled the holes around an inch further out and a bit higher as well. If you f@$k it up you just bolt everything into the old holes :lol:

ill mesure my control arms tomorrow for a more definate answer.

 

on toymods they are using siggy arms for supras and ae86s, so chances are they might be too long. you can always hack em up a little shorter though

Sorry mate, no pics as it was done way before I got a digital camera. Just redrilled the holes around an inch further out and a bit higher as well. If you f@$k it up you just bolt everything into the old holes :lol:

 

i will give this a go on my old crossmemeber to see how it works, ive got another crossmember anyway thats going in the car with proper mounts for a 2t and there moved foward to keep the motor off the fire wall, i will see how i go with this and if its not enough i will try some sigma arms, is it only GH sigma arms that i can use because i have access to a lot of sigmas but they are gk, gj and gn i think??

 

cheers james

Edited November 14, 200619 yr by jamesrolla

ok i did a rough mesure of my control arms tonight and came up with this:

 

total length from centre of inner bush to centre of balljoint = 330/335mm

inner bush to castor rod = 270mm

inner bush to swaybar = 240mm

 

so it looks like the siggy arm is too short?

id rather not go with rose joints as it will probably end up costing too much

 

Can do them for less than $100. Easy to make.

 

I have adjustable Lower arms, and for me it was the way to go.

 

When we ran club cars, we weren't allowed to do this, so we slotted the top of the towers and covered the whole lot with a strut brace to hide it. we also redrilled the crossmember, but I'm not a real fan of that, although I don't really know why.

 

You can also just cut the top out of you tower and re fabricate the holes wherever you want. If you use somethig substantial, you also prevent the tops of the towers from bowing. (I used to have to belt mine back down regularly.)

 

I know it's a 10, but have a peek at this: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s...c=8789&st=0

 

R

Edited November 15, 200619 yr by Redwarf

cheers fellas, i might consider the rosejoints then, were do i get them from??

also i have heard people say that with there ke30's they used gj sigma LCA's first and they were to long so they might be the right length for ke20's??? just guessing though, i will have to do some investigating

 

james