emu Posted November 26, 2006 Report Posted November 26, 2006 Hi all .I've got a very low mileage(29,000kms) automatic, that's scarcely been used over the past 10 years. Took it out for it's 1st decent run through the hills today, and after 30 mins it started to sprew coolant out of the overflow, with the temp guage climbing to approx 80%. We steadied down and drove home slowly after cooling down, but I feel the whole system needs a cleanout with an obvious partial blockage somewhere I'll remove the radiator ,and get that professionally done, but what's the best way to backflush the block and head to ensure everythings ok there? Thanks Quote
philba Posted November 26, 2006 Report Posted November 26, 2006 I'm sure that if you search, you will find it. It's been posted before. It's here somewhere Quote
Robert Posted November 26, 2006 Report Posted November 26, 2006 Remove the thermostat and reverse flush it, probly should change thermostat also. Quote
Raven Posted November 26, 2006 Report Posted November 26, 2006 I'd say the thermostat would have rusted shut from sitting. Definately replace it. Quote
Teddy Posted November 27, 2006 Report Posted November 27, 2006 Id say give me some pictures of a 30,000 km ke70 :jamie: !!!!!!!! Quote
emu Posted November 27, 2006 Author Report Posted November 27, 2006 turn on the heater... Thanks guys,I've bought a thermostat, and will flush through the radiator both ways if i can with the motor running, and (Jason) with the heater turned on ??? And I've done some photos, but haven't worked out yet how to fit a LHS rear view mirror which was missing when i bought it, so I'll tru to get that on b4 i post some photos,......you'll like it i think, ..it's a gem, just like new. Thanks , emu Quote
Rolla Newbie Posted December 19, 2006 Report Posted December 19, 2006 Mate, I am not sure I would flush it with the engine running. Might cause damage and burn yrself. Turn the heater on and let it run for a mo to ensure you run water into the heater as well, and it will get flushed as well. And make sure the engine is NOT hot when you flush it out, as hot metal has a habit of cracking when hit by cold water........ I found out the hard way. When you finish, let it run for 10 or 15 minutes with the radiator cap off to make sure you get any air bubbles out of the system. Paul Quote
MRMOPARMAN Posted December 20, 2006 Report Posted December 20, 2006 gday, was the coolant rusty at all? as everyone has said, replace the thermostat. the way i reverse flush, is to turn the heater on full. sheild the distributer from flying water. undo one of the heater hoses and grab a pressurised garden hose (ie town water, not tank water with no pump) and shove it up the guts of the heater hose. start engine and turn on hose, watch out water will piss out of the pipe you undid the hose from. flush until waters clear. then put hose in the pipe side and repeat process. take the radiator cap off and repeat the process again. that garrantee's a well flushed system. btw don't run the engine more than 4-5 mins doing this just in case. ive done HEAPS of flushes this way and never had a problem. Quote
thomo Posted December 20, 2006 Report Posted December 20, 2006 never run a motor when flushing, its pointless, a water pump is more of an agitator than a pump, your guarden hose is 3 times as powerfull all your doing is blowing out scale from inside the block you reverse flush the radiator and heater core because that scale is sitting over or on top of the core fins, if its in the core you need to run a radiator flush through first, then water (instructions on the pack) or pull the tanks off and run wire through the cores, no you can't do this at home! hell of a week, stuff the spell check, live with it Quote
Jonny Rochester Posted December 20, 2006 Report Posted December 20, 2006 If the car is overheating it will more likely be on of these problems: 1. Coolant leak somewhere, even a pinhole leak. CHeck with a pressure tester on the radiator and let it sit. The leak could be through the head gasket (dibble of water out the exhaust), or a external leak. 2. Radiator cap is not holding pressure. Test or get a new one. 3. Thermostate is either missing or rusted OPEN. 4. Or half the fins are missing on the radiator, and its a really really bad radiator. But most often it will be a water leak. The leak may not show itself untell it gets pressure. Quote
hitoriko Posted February 24, 2009 Report Posted February 24, 2009 I'm having this problem aswell i've done the cooling flush i've replaced the thermostat, i've done a carb cleaner in the carb (thought one of the jests was making the engine lean out) replaced the clutch fan. before i change my radiator i want to know is there anything else it coould be? Quote
springersrolla Posted February 24, 2009 Report Posted February 24, 2009 i bought a overrated ke35, handed the cash over, and the guy says as I'm ready for my 1hr 1/2 drive home, OH by the way its been running a bit hot on hills but its had a flush it should be alright. drove it home in the middle of summer with the heater trying to bypass some heat i was f@$kin spewing. Used full bottle of Mukowit(good shit) for the flush, did the radiator cap, thermosat, got another water pump cause mine looked a little dodgy, flushed again, good coolant. Heated up again... Did a compression test to make sure i wasnt leaking into water jackets or anything, all seemd good. Got a quote on a radiator flush.$80 put it in,ready that arvo, got the reciept and it was 80% blocked. Car hasnt had an issue since runs real cool. The car had done 39000kms probably driving to church and back, but if u keep gettin problems with heating, get the radiator done and you should be good. Quote
hitoriko Posted February 25, 2009 Report Posted February 25, 2009 thanks i've been quoted 90 through work Quote
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