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  • 2 weeks later...
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Posted

Took the motor forward, had the firewall painted, and put the motor back it it's original position. That job took the best of 2 days to do, rather than a few hours. (I guess I did fix up a few other things too.)

Had to

1. disconnect the clutch and brake master cylinders,

2. disconnect the wiring from behind the motor,

3. drop the steering draglink

4. disconnect fuel lines

5. and more

 

to get the motor forward enough to be able to paint it. I guess it took a bit of time, hopefully don't have to take the motor out in a hurry.

 

I had a hole in the firewall which is almost completely 'blocked' by the standard heater's motor. but to finish it a bit better, I bought a $2 tin bowl from Habitat, primed and painted it, and sikaflexed it over the hole.

 

While the motor was out, I looked at some earlier heater hose plumbing I had done, and saw it to be somewhat unsatisfactory, so rerouted that too. I don't particulary want to have to move the motor forward to fit a heater hose! The new way should fix that problem.

Posted

I had the same problem with my LCA's (hitting the disc), spoke to my engineer and ended up shaving a few mm the lip off the outside of the LCA, and machining the hubs so that the discs sat further out. Now I have about 1-2mm clearance between the disc and the LCA, some people warned me that it might still touch, but in the 2.5 years the car has been competing, it hasn't happened.

 

It did introduce another problem though - because the discs are now sitting further out, the calipers obviously also had to be spaced outwards. Finding rims to fit the car is a real PITA, the only ones I've managed to find are Hotwires (which are alright, I guess).

 

Nice work with the car, I really like what you've done with the panhard rod. Any other photos of the setup, esp the chassis mount? Did you have to reinforce the floor area that it connects to etc? Since building the car I've considered putting a panhard rod in, but never actually gotten motivated enough...

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

A few pics of the panhard rod mount, a bit hard to see though.

It is braced about to the middle of the car, laterally speaking.

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Posted (edited)

Now with TE27 flares, I'm happy with the result. it was hard to see the guards being cut though. :)

post-891-1182206149_thumb.jpg

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Edited by robj
Posted (edited)

Rob if my KE25 is half as good as yours, I will be a happy man, top job, that panard is a work of art

.sort of wished I went 3sge, but the plan hopefully is different drivetrain and a boosted 20v in the far far future :jamie: 1.6 should work well with a turbo in IPRA.

 

What diff ratio you going to run, I'm after a 5.1 for mine as that will suit Mallala quite well, do you have any contacts regardings different crownwheel and pinion ratios.

 

Ill keep you updated on my cars as well

 

Cheers

John

Edited by toyocharged
Posted
Rob if my KE25 is half as good as yours, I will be a happy man, top job, that panard is a work of art

.sort of wished I went 3sge, but the plan hopefully is different drivetrain and a boosted 20v in the far far future :jamie: 1.6 should work well with a turbo in IPRA.

 

What diff ratio you going to run, I'm after a 5.1 for mine as that will suit Mallala quite well, do you have any contacts regardings different crownwheel and pinion ratios.

 

Ill keep you updated on my cars as well

 

Cheers

John

 

Thanks for the nice words. A mate of mine, Aaron actually did the panhard rod.

I've got a 4.11 t series diff with a 1.5 way trd lsd. Obviously a different ratio would suit a tight track, but hopefully I have a fairly strong midrange. I tried to look at the pics you sent me of my car, but couldn't access them. Keen to see them.

 

About the crownwheel and pinion ratios, I'll ask a few of my more 'toyota guru' mates, and see if they know of anything.

Posted

Nah I'm from up north in Launie.

Are you the guy that owned the white ke20 that got t-boned?????

as he was restoring a ke25. :hmm: also.

 

My ke20 has been in the same family since new.

It runs a worked 5k and 5 speed gearbox, I have added 13inch superlites and a sports exhaust.

It originally was a 3k 1200cc with a 2 speed toyoglide auto. :o :lolcry:

This car is in excellent condition inside and out and I ocassionally enter it in car shows up here. :y:

 

I also love the look of the ke25 and those flares really set your car off. :y: :jamie:

 

Anyway love to see some pics when she's all finished, keep up the great work. :y:

Posted
Nah I'm from up north in Launie.

Are you the guy that owned the white ke20 that got t-boned?????

as he was restoring a ke25. :hmm: also.

 

My ke20 has been in the same family since new.

It runs a worked 5k and 5 speed gearbox, I have added 13inch superlites and a sports exhaust.

It originally was a 3k 1200cc with a 2 speed toyoglide auto. :o :lolcry:

This car is in excellent condition inside and out and I ocassionally enter it in car shows up here. :y:

 

I also love the look of the ke25 and those flares really set your car off. :y: :jamie:

 

Anyway love to see some pics when she's all finished, keep up the great work. :y:

 

I know the car you're talking about that got T boned, a shame that. It's not me. Yes, they are also restoring a KE25, a later model one, that's orange in colour - well was when I saw it last.

 

I'll have to bring the KE25 up north some time, I lived in L'ton for 21 years, and my folks live out that way too.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

WOW dude i'm loving your mods!

that modified 3sge intake looks very well fabricated and still has nice long runners for good midrange torque ;)

most of my questions have been answered already.. keep it up! multi coil ignition is awesome!

hopefully we see some more toy phreaks getting into the 3sge conversion!

i vote for you putting up a 'how to' on making your 3sge rwd intake!!!!

 

your question about the steering arms (or knuckles), te27 arms are most commonly sourced in the states.. when ever someone asks to buy something from me i reply with 'can you trade for some te27 steering arms' heehee. te21 and te28 have the same arms just so you know. trading like that has scored me some so it works a treat :( but in saying that.. if your having trouble with lca contact on the ae86 arms with st141 struts/pug disk, then you'll probly have the same trouble with te27 arms. if i get a chance i'll dig some out and take a pic for you (the arms).

 

Other options you could look into is using mx73 cressida hubs.. which are all the same as st141 hub, but have a thinner hub where the disk bolts to.. so the disk sits outwards about 5mm or so (email me if you want me to measure exactly) it seems only the Mx73 has this.. gx71, gx61, ta63, ma61 etc have the fatter disk mount. (saves you machining them thinner). you'd have to space the caliper out accordingly too... which then gives you less options for wheels as most will hit the calipers. ive played round with a heap of parts and found 4pot hilux calipers a pain to fit if the disks aren't offset in enough. please double check the two bolts at bottom of st141 strut are 90mm apart! not 87 or 85mm otherwise discard the above info.. the cressida hubs most likely wont fit 85mm or 87mm type strut :)

 

Another option is offset RCA's. i don't particularly like the idea due to it being similar to sticking overly wide wheels on which if you've ever had 13x8's on the front.. gives a twitchy feel to the steering. T3 (amongst others) sell them for ae86 (85mm) Or you could probly get some made with two different bolt spacings to suit the steering arm/ strut combination your're using.. like say ke25 steering arm (80mm spacing) to st141 strut (90mm spacing).

also ae86 steering arms are 85mm spacing. i noticed earlier it was stated as 87mm. 87mm is the ke30 or earlier ke70 steering arm-to-strut bolt spacing.

i have made a list in comparison here http://www.toycrazy.net/tech/struts.html

 

keep up the great work! I'm certainly keeping track :)

  • 2 weeks later...

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