Fook : Yup, thats right !

 

Now from the KYB Page... (thanks doug)

 

(see Pic)

 

Now, its got (GR-2 for front and back) & (Gas-A-Just for Back only)

 

what would be more approraite?

 

Cheers

 

Ted

From the KYB page

 

GR-2® Premium Shocks and Struts are specially designed to provide a smooth, secure ride with excellent control for drivers who are looking for ride comfort and improved handling

 

Gas-a-Just® High Performance Shocks' higher gas pressure keeps tires glued to the road while its superior strength monotube configuration provides durability and fade-free performance

 

so maybe go for GR-2 front and Gas a Just in the rear... Id go for gas ajust all round but its a bugger you can't get them for the fronts.

Teddy: I'll see if I can get some prices for those springs.

Ben : Thanks a lot for that - what would be the best way to find out prices for them? - I'm just thinking if i ring them up, because I'm not a buisness , then they will tell me to *go away* kindly :) - unless any 1 here has some contacts with relation to KYB shocks? (should i phone Brian at Pedders in Geebung for that? or after i have figgured out what i want / got a good idea actually go down and see him in person?) :)

 

Fook: Ahh, once again, thankyou for your help ! !

 

:D

Ring Anthony Kellam, see how much he can get those KYB shocks for you. He got them for me pretty cheap last time (awhile ago), I am assuming he should still be able to get them.

Anyone seen a active suspenison on an old corolla?

 

Like air bags?

can't say I have. Id Imagine its more than possible to do though.

Some bushes are probably best left in rubber. For instance the lower control arm bushes, if you keep them in rubber you can wind more castor in. I've got poly ones, hence can't really wind much castor in.

 

OK, I've just done the rear suspension and about to start on the front.

 

The rear of my KE55 2 door coupe got a pair of waggon springs, (thanks Fook), a pair of gas shocks and new poly bushes all around. Made a big difference. :P

 

In researching the front suspension I came across the above comment from Fook re not necessarily going all poly bushes on the front suspension.

 

Now I know what castor, camber & toe-in are, but I need someone to explain in a little more detail, how the rubber bush use on the inner control arms allow one to "wind more castor in".

 

As someone very famous out Ipswich way once said. "Please explain".

 

:)

Off down to the garage with a camera. Back later!

Like air bags?

Funny you should mention that.. it was a thought in my head, as I don't really know what to do in the suspension part of my car. Whether I go Gabriel, KMAC or Koni... that's for the front, but who would I se abot leaf springs on the back... is it hard to convert leaf to coils?

Ford still have them in their F6 Typhoon 260KW ute. God knows why....

 

Buy the best suspension you can afford. If you're serious, forget Gabriel, I didn't think KMAC made shocks, and Koni are a good choice.Shop around, see what people say. I use and recommend Pedders... :)

Usually, you'd complement Koni shocks/struts with K MAC springs and swaybars.

My brother used Monroe and Pedders, he thinks he had better handling and a better sit with Monroe, to be honest, which is to my suprise. I here good and bad about Pedders.

 

I may just pay the bucks and go Koni Adjustables, KMAC springs, and the back leaves... well, I need to inquire about kits for a KE55, or do you just take out one of the leaves out? What do I do with the back?

Okay. Here we go.

 

Below is a standard KE20 (all the others are basically the same) lower control arm with standard out-of-the-box rubber bushing.

The rubber bushing (red arrow) allows a certain amount of forwards and backwards movement of the outer end of the lower control arm, as shifted by the castor rod (yellow arrow). Replacing the rubber bush with a nolathane item will increase the rigidity of bushing, thereby placing more strain upon the Lower control arm bolt, and conceiveably not allowing as much twist as you would like to gain your desired amount of castor.

This piccie and the above one are from my TE37/KE55. I can't remember of the top of my head what factory castor for these are, but on a 20 series, it's about 1'30" of castor, +- 30". As you can see from the below photo, the castor arm is as "wound in" as it can get.