it looks better than I thought it would around the windows. you are making good progress.

Edited December 28, 200718 yr by KE30_KE35_KE55

next stop, paint stripper

 

Just read the whole thread, and it looks like a mighty task.

 

Honestly don't bother with paint stripper, all it does is make a mess, if you want to do it properly take it to an abrasive blaster (sand blaster) and get them to go to town. The finish left by blasting is exteremly good for painting on and leaves no rust. Here are some pics of a frieds RA28 that was blasted:

 

Before

 

After

 

Blasting also give you a very clean surface to weld onto.

 

Good luck

Jordan

Whats sandblasting cost to do to a complete shell these days?

Due to limited funds and a desire to build it myself, this project is strictly DIY, I have decided against completely bare metalling, as it is fairly obvious that some areas are for all intents and purposes, rust-free, and I can't see the point of removing paint for the sake of removing paint.

Due to limited funds and a desire to build it myself, this project is strictly DIY, I have decided against completely bare metalling, as it is fairly obvious that some areas are for all intents and purposes, rust-free, and I can't see the point of removing paint for the sake of removing paint.

 

very true and the factory dips and primers would possibly be better quality than anything you could buy.

Put in some serious time today, big hole...

 

Cut nice and large to get to the visible background rust, which will just get wire brushed, rust converted and painted.

 

The only really tricky rust on the driver's side

 

Oh look, it does have some proper metal left!

Honestly don't bother with paint stripper, all it does is make a mess, if you want to do it properly take it to an abrasive blaster (sand blaster) and get them to go to town. The finish left by blasting is exteremly good for painting on and leaves no rust. Here are some pics of a frieds RA28 that was blasted:

 

Good luck

Jordan

 

I beg to disagree with this method, Sandblasting = friction = heat = distortion of the panel.

 

Chemical stripping does not cause any of that drama.. Yes it is a tad messy, But if you know what you are doing you can do it with minimal mess. Both my KE70 and Teddy's KE70s were done with chemical paint stripper.

Yeah, its evil shit, but it works. Only got two chemical burns :dance: , not that messy either, as only doing small areas

Edited December 29, 200718 yr by machg

If you are going to media blast, ground walnut shells are the way to go from what I've read on the subject.

 

machg, looks like you have a bit of work ahead. Considering it's rarity it is definitely worth the effort.

Yeah, its evil shit, but it works. Only got two chemical burns :dance: , not that messy either, as only doing small areas

 

when selecting a rust converter get one with phosphoric acid make sure you wash it off and prime well. some of the products that prime as well are junk.

 

the main chemical used in paint stripping is methylene chloride it is a nasty solvent. it burns skin and the evaporation rate is massive Methylene chloride boils at 40° C. i have used it many times in its pure form to strip delicate parts. the problem as a stripper is evaporation to make it go further I cover my paint stripper up with damp cloth as soon as its applied, it seems to keep the fumes in and stop the evaporation. Used in the shade on a cool day also helps.

If you are going to media blast, ground walnut shells are the way to go from what I've read on the subject.

 

machg, looks like you have a bit of work ahead. Considering it's rarity it is definitely worth the effort.

 

for the Ultimate

Soda Blasting

It’s a variation of a sand blaster that uses safe, edible baking soda instead of sand. I have seen a car blasted with soda it comes out like a new steel minimal etching it is very expensive and it made a real mess.

Was half deaf for hours yesterday, LOL, not today...

 

 

Too close for comfort...

 

 

More sticky evil shit

 

Rust convertor, no where near as bad as stripper.

 

I am thinking maybe fibreglass bolt ons for rear guards, (front as well?) after rust has been "fixed"

Edited December 30, 200718 yr by machg

That RA28 shell was blasted with recycled copper slag. Other mediums:

 

• Quarts (sand of varing grits)
  Soda
  Glass
  Plastic beads
  Nut shells
  etc...
  

 

can be used to good effect on delicate items, as heat can be an issue. That said, I've never had issues with pannels warping due to getting too hot, and the only mediums I've ever had used on pannels have been garnet and copper slag.

 

It costs between $300-600 (for the $600 rage you'd be expecting to have primer sprayed on the shell as well) for a whole car depending on who you use, how you pay and how much is written on the books. When you consider how long it takes and how nasty a substance paint stripper is, as well as using a wire wheel and all the sanding it works about square. Where we get cars done it's a same day service. for me th answer is simple, since the blasted finish is so so good and you don't ahve to deal with paint stripper. You don't even need to bother with rust converter as all the rust is taken out with the basting service :dance:

 

The best bit with blasting is that it gets into all the areas that you can't with hand sanding.

 

Cheers

Jordan

 

P.S: I'm not a pannel beater or abrasive blaster (actually a Mining Ventilation Engineer,) though I have been involved in the spraying of over 5 cars (all of which had various amounts of blasing done to various pannels (mainly bonnets, boots and front guards.) From my personal experience it seems the best way to go.

Edited December 30, 200718 yr by Jordan

My shell has so much rust, I'd only get half a shell back from blasting. :dance:

That hottest day this summer, takes commitment to work on your car...

 

(no racist jokes please)

 

Not too bad underneath front quarter panels or doors, thank God

 

Unsurprisingly, driver's side door and panel much better nick than passenger's side, I reckon both are well saveable...

 

 

I think the end of the first phase will be when I have fixed all the rust on the "inner" shell, which thankfully isn't too bad. Once that's done, then the real fun can start with trying to fix panels.