looks good teddy sounds good too.

( if i had a $1000, i would get it. even if parents don't want another one. its worth 2500 easily, and lovely to drive! )

lol - bloke (the 1 post i don't spell check :insane:) - yeah - ill keep everyone up to date !

 

wouldnt have worked anyway...caws block is a word...

 

Looks pretty tidy!

Update :

 

Car will be at jasons 11:00 tomorrow morning :insane: !

Wooo, ive cleared a space for it in my garage. :insane: Teddy knows how it looked before

Edited November 29, 200421 yr by Jason

I thought i should post up the articles we will be following / going by when we do the transplant.

 

General Transplanting of the 4A-GZE guide

 

4AGZE into a Sprinter / Ae71

 

some info i have gotten from various people...

 

Karl W...

 

" currently run T18 gbox, tailshaft and diff. The T18 box has the 20 pline output shaft opposed to the AE71 22 spline, but both being 2 piece shafts it should be ok to combine the two pices.

You will also have to use a 4age flywheel + clutch as the GZE doesnt fir in the T50 bellhousing.

 

My PERSONAL opinion is screw the whole T series idea and get an F series or G series from Crown or Hilux respectively. Then get a W58 + custom bellhousing + modified tailshaft and NEVER worry about snapage.

 

You will need to install a pilot bearing. FWD motors don't have them. Cost ~ $2.00

 

Fuel pump - an intank or JE camira external will do the trick..... plenty of info on doing that.

 

Wiring.... well there are only a few wires from the engine loom and ECU which connect to the body.

# 12V permanent

# Ignition [EFI MAIN] (relay required - the toyota "silver can style" in the relay box at the battery works well - even labelled too!

# Circ open relay

# Fuel pump wire

# Earth, i think

# Brake lamp

 

thats about it i think"

 

Mr Shin...

 

"Here's an old photo of my KE70 4AG when I was halfway through doing it, hence the reason it's so messy!

 

http://www.comcen.com.au/~sheehan/Grey%20Whitey%20 006.jpg

 

On the RH tower you'll see a black can with hoses going to it - that's a fuel pot I spent all of about 30 minutes making from a piece of old tailshaft, with a pump on the bottom of it. It's fed with an old Mazda electric pump I had lying around. Cheap, nasty, but effective way to get fuel to your engine, and I even managed to get a RWC with it

 

Oh, and if you run out of fuel with that setup, you're OUT - when I did this once, there wasn't so much as a single drop anywhere in the system "

 

 

Chrizer (From Rollaclub)

"I Have just completed this conversion

 

Ive herd rumors that the supercharger on the Ae101 needs to have the bracket bent up a bit so that it clears the engine bay in the Ae71 - is this correct or not ?

 

No, all that is need is to cut the bottom tag of the supercharger cradle to fit the engine mounts, the S/C will clear everything.

 

1 more thing - are there any real Delmer's / things that need to be custom / changed when it comes to doing this conversion?

 

You need to convert the cooling system to rwd. I ran hoses from the back water outlets to the front. Follow WITZL's tech article in the FAQ section.

Also the top mount intercooler will not clear the bonnet, so that needs to be modified or front mounted.

The air intake needs to be spun 180 degrees.

You will need to make a custom alternator bracket because it sits too low and hits the swaybar.

 

Any other problems just pm me. "

 

Jason and I have decided on a few more things. The intercooler will be placed at the front instead of the top of the motor (factory stock position for intercooler is on top of the motor) and we will be upgrading to the T series diff and tail shaft when we do the conversion, instead of using the Ae71 stuff then changing it later on down the track.

 

:insane:

Hmm I must have missed the transplant guide, thanks. Good read.

 

ECU looks like fun to hook up, by the looks of it, pretty simple :insane: bring it on

 

just a load off... the Ae101 does have MAP don't it???

Edited November 29, 200421 yr by Jason

AE101 is MAP.

Found this

 

http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.php?t=m...4547fe97d17e5f7

 

Will also be of good use :insane:

:insane: i got my spirit.... Along with some not so good news. It has some rust, not that major but enough to be concerned about, looks like some more $$$ I don't want to spend. Its on both rear wheel arches, and under the rear left mudflap, dam that sneaky rust.

 

But I cleaned it up got rid of the nasty back sun shade, got rid of the hideous stickers that had 20 year old glue under them *shudders*

 

Pics

 

and BTW teddy i carnt get the back bummper off

Edited November 30, 200421 yr by Jason

its a good car tho!

 

Its got a rattle in the motor, goes away when its warm.. but for 375.000 K's or what ever it is - it still runs nicely !

 

tomorrow will be good - clean it up day !

 

Ill help get that bumper off !

heheheehehehe mmmm 7500rpm valve bounce, don't worry the motor was warmed up, I'm a bad boy :insane: :D

 

AND so it begins..........

Edited November 30, 200421 yr by Jason

and BTW teddy i carnt get the back bummper off

Drown it in CRC for a day or so, then try taking it off again..

 

Nice car by the way, what a steal, if thats the only rust you have, be extremely thankful, i've seen much worse.

Edited November 30, 200421 yr by Medicine_Man

Car looks pretty clean, rust doesn't look too bad. If you're lucky you might even be able to get "repair panels" to fix that up.

we didn't find all the rust when we viewed it at the owners house, since then i have found it all - but it really is nothing to complain about - its a good buy !! ! !! ! !

 

:insane: