Took all the front panel off today, just to have a look if there any more rust.

 

The right side seems fine, but there just some rust that has to be cut in the joint on the left side, and some surface on the door mates.

 

Also we found out that touching the sealant between the engine bay and the inside of the panels. :doublebird: gross. Most of its gone, what should i use to replace it?

 

OK, now most of the back end rust remove is done, now.... What needs to be done about the bid bit of rust on the wheel guards ect... Open to everything right now.

 

PicX

Hmm, fun. The surface rust is easy, just wire brush off as much as you can (or get a flapper wheel on a grinder) and rust convert the rest. Weld in any small holes you get, and weld in a patch for any bigger ones.

 

I would assume the sealant you've discovered would be window sealant. You can get it from Supercheap. You could also probably replace it with Sikaflex, but only if you don't see yourself taking it apart again, because it'll probably take your paint off too if you do. Sikaflex is good stuff though :doublebird:

hmm i probably will be talking it off some time, but there no paint to start with :doublebird:

 

yere i got the rust of the back with the angle grinder disk.

If you can get a flapper wheel, it's not as harsh as the grinding disc and doesn't take off quite as much metal, just paint and rust and stuff mostly.

So is that the wire brush thinging? The embeds wire into when you use it?

 

Ahh i see what you mean now, kinda of like a polishing wheel. What grit do you recommend?

Edited December 14, 200421 yr by Jason

Wire wheel is also good, flapper wheel is better. As for grit, no idea. Would be similar to if you were using a sanding disc. If it's very light surface work then I'd probably get a fairly moderate to light one, if it's a bit heavier I'd go with a course grade.

 

Make sure you wear eye protection (and gloves etc) when using the wire wheel, because the wires tend to get dislodged and pulling them out of your hand/arm/eyeball is no fun at all.

Yah, i found out only the front half of my car has been resprayed.. Which mean the back end i can match the paint... Which i have. So blending will not be so difficult now.

 

I also cleared up the rust around the front to see whats happening... Windshield mighty have to be removed :doublebird:

good for you Jason, this car is going to quite a machine.

Ok after a LOT of sore backs cut up hands and headaches me and teddy got the new dash up to spec.

 

Today how ever i got EVERY THING WORKING! I extended the wires (I think Mat is the only one who will real;y appreciate that ;) ) I also got the tacho working :doublebird: a long with the fuel gauge.. But it has since then died again :P

 

O well some PicX

 

O and i don't know if the charge light works? How do i check?

Edited December 18, 200421 yr by Jason

argh! why butcher a perfectly good dash? whats wrong with the standard cluster?

Well... teddy talked me into it, its much cleaner, got oil pressure (i know i could of just got a stand alone) but I think its just more 'clean'

 

O and its different :doublebird:

 

argh! why butcher a perfectly good dash? whats wrong with the standard cluster?

I haven't its been taken out nicely and the original under neath plastic has been hacked up by the original owner

 

 

 

Dam back button make me double post!

Edited December 18, 200421 yr by Jason

4 days work was worth it :doublebird:

 

Cooool :P

Okys

 

RUST..... CUTTING.....

 

Were gona start on the mud flap rust soon at least i hope. Were probably just going to fibro it, since we don't have acess to a welder as of yet.

 

So is there any pointer you guys have to cutting/rust repair?

 

Thanks in advance

Jason - get some good pics up of the wiring atm ! :doublebird: !

I made it NEAT *shock*

 

It looks messier then its really is

 

Snuh

 

Before i did the extension we had to work in and under the dash board