Have not thought of this felix, is this ok for most situations ?

 

Yep, so long as you don't get any coil bind. Ideally you want a minimum of 10 thou clearance between the coils at full lift.

Thanks, good to know. :D

Seeing as you are running an auto I would go conservative on the cam, unless you want to start playing with rebuilt stall converters. To much cam with a low stall converter may lead to either stalling or the motor wanting to overide the brakes at idle whilst in drive.

 

From there I would say that you wouldn't need to worry overly much about engine balancing as with a cam to suit your auto it isn't really going to be making max power around 8 grand. You could always do a little balancing your self with a set of digital scales to save a few bucks.

 

As for valve springs, just shim them. Good for an extra 500-1000 rpm for bugger all cost. :D

 

Those are my exact thoughts as far as the cam with the auto. I spoke to Kangaroosa, and his cam kicks in about 3k, peak at 5700. Plenty of low end grunt and shouldnt be too lumpy.

 

This motor isn't intended to be a powerhouse, just give my toyoglide plenty of torque to pull me up hills.

 

What other options do I have for Springs?

Springs all depend on how much lift you're going to run.

 

Because it wont be a huge cam with huge lift, maybe 3K-B springs might be an alternative option as they are heavier than stock springs from what I've read.

Never had an issue with stock springs. Guess I was lucky.

Hi,

coln72 you didn't have trouble with your 5K valves springs because you got 77lbs springs in your 5K not 70lbs stock ones.

 

Know why???

 

Well

K-B, 3K-B both got 77lbs springs so they revved harder.

 

Now 5K and 7K with hydraulic lifters also got 77lbs springs as hydros needed more pressure. Got thsi solid fact from the Toyota factory 5K rebuild book. So if you want on stock 5K springs can run big lift if there not well worn/ dead.

 

But for the sake of it $100 you will have new valve springs nice tight ones and wont have to worry.

 

But if you want stock springs that are harder than normal get 3k-B ones or 7K or 5K ones :D

 

Cameron

you may also run into problems with the rocker towers (i think this is what they are called), when i did my 5k with a 30/70 cam i had to have these machined down to stop the push rods making noise. Also a thought to machine the hydrolic lifters when you do the cam, unless you are planning solid lifters. I used crow cam dbl springs from a torana for mine and they work fine. Got the head ported and polished and massive valves put in and my 5k is good for 7500 without missing a beat. never pushed it harder but it would go i recon. anyway that's my two bobs,

cheers

could go 8000rpm on the stock springs :D Running aa Wade 169 grind I also had no issues with lifters or rocker posts.

Got API started on the block. Incidentally, I took the crank down there and he measured it up. Sweet as. Got talking to him, and he said he'd bet his left nut that most cranks don't need grinding, very rare that they wear out of factory spec!

 

Might pay to measure your cranks with a micrometer before you throw money at your engine grinder people!

i agree with your words on the crank, the k motors are good with there cranks and the same with going through API they are really competitive. if you don't do the crank might be worth having the pistons and con-rods weight dialed in, they are the parts mooving the fastest under power. if you want to take load off the crank, do the flywheel, i thought it helped my little k. you should end up with a sweet k at the end :rocknroll:.

I assume you're talking about lightening - nah, its just going to be a grunty streeter to pull my wagon up hills without bogging down to 1st (toyoglide haha!)

let us know the price of a cam gring.

Kangaroosa got his cam ground for ~80 bucks at Wade Cams in Melbourne. I was going to go the same grind, but I'll have to post it.

will 5k/7k valve springs fit into a 4k-c and work without having to do anything to the head or valves.

Ok they have done the head first, all finished. Probably a bit early, I still wanted to work out what to do with it first. 250 for all new valves fitted to the head which I thought was reasonable.

 

I might still get some matchporting done though. I'll bring it home and pull it down and have a look and see.

 

Got a total price, looking at $1300. Thats balanced with all new bearings, pistons (40 thou over) gaskets, chromoly rings, seals, dipped etc etc. Bring it home and bolt it up and its going.

 

Oh, except the cam grind and dizzy recurve.

 

I could have saved money on various things, but I'm getting all good ACL bits, and it'll be fresh as! don't want to try skimp, save 200 bucks and end up needing another rebuild 3 months later.