philbey Posted March 25, 2008 Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 Folks, Dropped a 5k block and head down at the engine builders to get a "work list" for stuff to get done to it. Please have a look through and offer opinions on pricing, where I might save cash and if there are things I have missed (Camshaft for example isn't there) Prognosis is: Block needs a rebore. Here is the list of stuff he gave me: Block work: - $120 to Rebore to any size (probably 60 thou over because I can) - $40 to deck the block - $50 to remove camshaft bearings and hot-bath the block to clean it up - $40 for new cam bearings - $250 for new pistons and rings, size to suit bore etc. Block work total: $500 - ~$300 for the Head work including new exhaust valves, 3 angle grind, port matched to manifold and a general clean up etc. - ~$170 to balance the engine. So all up, for a comprehensive build, i'm looking at ~$970 to go whole hog. Areas I think I can save money on are: - Use set of oversize pistons I have at home, save ~130ish - Skip hot bath dip therefore I can keep the old cam bearings, save ~40-60 bucks - Skip on the Balancing, save another 170 bucks. FYI the engine will run twin DHLA's and extractors, and I want a cam with good Midrange power for street use, bolted to a Toyoglide for the moment! It wont be revving to 8k in other words. What do you guys think of these prices, how do they compare with previous builds, etc. Cheers TP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canna Posted March 25, 2008 Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 thats doent sound to bad were abouts you geting that done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redwarf Posted March 25, 2008 Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 Don't scimp on pistons or the wash (and hence cam bearings.) Balance would be the optional one for me, but it's an added piece of warm and fuzzy that I would do. Are you planning to put this on a 10? If you are, it's very hard to put air filters on DCOE/DHLA's unless the engine has been uprighted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xany Posted March 25, 2008 Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 I wouldnt be skipping the balancing myself....most engine wear would come from out of balance components, and a 20year old engine may have some parts that need doing. The head work price seems cheap, but then again theres no porting in that either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raven Posted March 25, 2008 Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 I'm also interested to know who you're going through, since I also live in Adelaide. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbey Posted March 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 (edited) I have gone to API Engines in Lonsdale. They were recommended by Toyoland around the corner. As for balance, i'm still not sure. Most likely I will get it done. Its all more than I budgeted but I still thought those were good prices overall. Head work I figured keep it simple, up compression, seat grind and port match. Its not a race car and I wont need it to breath at 9000 rpm. Do need to ask him about facing the rocker posts though. As far as the Carby fitment issue Redwarf, I have heard that before... I think I might knock up a slimline airbox for the carbs and run a hose to a pod - Cold air style. I've got access to cheep (like the budgie) laser cutting, and a bit of home welding might do the trick. Edited March 25, 2008 by philbey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raven Posted March 25, 2008 Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 API hey? Interesting. I'll keep that in mind. Would be interesting to know how much they would charge for the porting and matching the ports as well. Mr Redwarf might know something about making upright kits? Rob? Do you? Can you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redwarf Posted March 25, 2008 Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 (edited) I don't but a couple of others in here do. Have a word with the TRD brothers or Teddy. Need engine mounts, inlet manifold, Mod the exhaust, oil pick up(?). I think there's more. All I know is there's less room to put filters on a 10 than a 25, and a 25 only has 38mm between strut and carb. I had custom air filters (40mm) made. You might be able to fit an airbox, but it might need some massaging to fit. Edited March 25, 2008 by Redwarf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camerondownunder88 Posted March 25, 2008 Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 Hi, What brand pistons and rings are they using I am interested to know this? And below maybe a few other prices you might consider: Also flywheel get it faced cheap and worth it But are you planning on taking some weight off it or anything? Also new timing chain dual row I think is about $100 for a really nice alloy machine pulley and chain set for a K motor adjustable and that was a roller masters brand I think when I was last looking so at the most budget about $100 for a fancy timing chain set Crank. Will it get ground and new bearings? And my engine builder I know well and he said if I can clean all the parts I can my self. And if I want take off casting burs in the block and get old welsh plugs out and totally strip everything. He said it will save him time as he then has to just machine and assemble stuff. So also are you planning to do this to save labor cost or are they dismantling for you? As these days labor is the real killer for anything so what you can do your self int eh way of cleaning saves them and well you save a greater amount of cash and then can spend that on better internal parts. Also valve springs? Will need new ones with a new cam grind. Original K motor springs I think Toyota still make 77lbs KE15 had them stock revved up to 7500 RPM while other K motor with 70lbs springs revved to 6500 RPM so get the K-B sprinter motor valve springs should be cheap and better for you. But shop around I guess. Cheers Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickyboy Posted March 25, 2008 Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 API hey? Interesting. I'll keep that in mind. Would be interesting to know how much they would charge for the porting and matching the ports as well. Mr Redwarf might know something about making upright kits? Rob? Do you? Can you? that the trd upright mounting kit you speak of? wouldnt mind getting my hands on one of those or something similar (yes i know its impossible to find these things) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raven Posted March 25, 2008 Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 that the trd upright mounting kit you speak of? wouldnt mind getting my hands on one of those or something similar (yes i know its impossible to find these things) That would be correct :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oh what a nissan feeling! Posted March 25, 2008 Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 while on the subject, what is done about the gearbox when upright mounting, it would lay over a heap?? I was going to do it to the 25 for kicks, but the gearbox issue changed my mind :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbey Posted March 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 Yeh, API. I was originally going to Lonsdale Engine Workz but I couldnt find them and Toyoland guy recommended API, he's always used them with success. Cam, I think he said they sell Duralite pistons, which are ACLs are they not? He reckoned they are higher spec than factory at least, so that should be fine. Dual row cam drive is easy, I have one out of another 5k that I bought in pieces. Springs I will chase once I am closer to getting the head in my hands. I will probably be doing a bulk of the work myself. I will go talk to him about what I can do to save costs. Good question about the crank though, is it imperative that I get a regrind? I have 2 to choose from, i figured if I can get away without, then why not. I'll be getting another car soon to use as a dummy to fit up and work out Aircleaner issues. I can get reasonably tricky with a slimline airbox, maybe I can flog them to other 10 owners if I get a good solution! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted March 25, 2008 Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 Seeing as you are running an auto I would go conservative on the cam, unless you want to start playing with rebuilt stall converters. To much cam with a low stall converter may lead to either stalling or the motor wanting to overide the brakes at idle whilst in drive. From there I would say that you wouldn't need to worry overly much about engine balancing as with a cam to suit your auto it isn't really going to be making max power around 8 grand. You could always do a little balancing your self with a set of digital scales to save a few bucks. As for valve springs, just shim them. Good for an extra 500-1000 rpm for bugger all cost. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doogs Posted March 25, 2008 Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 As for valve springs, just shim them. Good for an extra 500-1000 rpm for bugger all cost. :D Have not thought of this felix, is this ok for most situations ? philbey, that quote for the duralites is pretty much what i was quoted here in melbourne, so spose this is a good price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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