Now I got my 'exhaust spacer' so the exhaust manifold doesn't crash with the rack'n pinion steering ( remember, I live in norway and the driver seat is at the opposite place :P )

 

 

exhaust will be made within this week, going for 2" size, I doesn't know if I could afford both new mufflers, maybe I use both of the old ones, or buy one new yet, maybe only the first muffler is going to be replaced for now, and when I get some more money just swap the muffler at the back of the car :)

the twin carbs is getting mounted as soon as the exhaust is fixed, and it's going to be some good shit! hehe

I'll see how much better the car goes with the new carbs and properly exhaust, maybe I need to get even more power? how about shaving the head for 10.0:1 to 11.0:1 CR, or is that too much? I'm running fuel rating 98 all the way..., new cams? do it exsist alternative cams for 2T-B at all?, and maybe some webbers carbs.. any idea's?

That's some nice fabrication there :P

for a street car i wouldn't run anything over 10:1. one of the guys on starletracing decked his 4k head so it was running over 11:1, he said it FLEW, but only lasted a few months (he didnt care anyway, 4ag transplant time). so it really depends how often you want to rebuild your motor :P

I guess if you can keep it from pinging then you can run whatever compression...

stroke it beeyatch. 3T crank, rods and pistons. Bingo, instant 1.8L stroker and a touch under 10:1 CR. Bore it to 2L and you'll be sitting on about 10.2:1.

and you'll have enough torque you could climb a vertical wall :) thats what all the american guys do (2L strokers, not climb walls)

yeah, that could be nice, but before I do any more to the engine, I need a decent suspension setup..

also got thinking about getting a 3T-GTE in my ke70.. could be fun.. and powerfull.. what is the price for these engines in australia / new zealand?

$800 to $1500 tops

Now I got my 'exhaust spacer' so the exhaust manifold doesn't crash with the rack'n pinion steering ( remember, I live in norway and the driver seat is at the opposite place :thumbsup: )

norwiegans have habbit of building cars back to front? I suppose the next thing you going to tell me is that you drive on the wrong side of the road too! :)

Now I got my 'exhaust spacer' so the exhaust manifold doesn't crash with the rack'n pinion steering ( remember, I live in norway and the driver seat is at the opposite place :danger: )

norwiegans have habbit of building cars back to front? I suppose the next thing you going to tell me is that you drive on the wrong side of the road too! :)

hehe no, I doesn't drive on the wrong side of the road, you guys do :thumbsup:

 

Super Jamie: is that price with ecu, wiring loom, turbo, etc? or just THE engine?

3T-GTE uses a T50 gearbox right?

I was under the impression that 3T-GTE engines were getting hard to source parts for in Aus. Had a mate in highschool that had one in a rolla, he said that it also hauled arse, no lag when you put your foot to the floor :)

thats for the lot, including gearbox, which is a t50 yes

 

getting parts ex-nippon for worked toyotas is nothing new. people with jza80 supras have to wait for 8 weeks parts to come in sometimes. try and get ANYTHING for a 2e starlet motor in australia, no chance

thats for the lot, including gearbox, which is a t50 yes

 

getting parts ex-nippon for worked toyotas is nothing new. people with jza80 supras have to wait for 8 weeks parts to come in sometimes. try and get ANYTHING for a 2e starlet motor in australia, no chance

okay, that's nice!

first I need to buy some nice suspension setup.. but after that I want a 3T-GTE engine

parts will be even more difficult to get in norway.. 3T-GTE doesn't even exist here, hehe

is these engines sold over the net? or just by mouth? if only by mouth can you or someone else arrange the buy / shipping thing? or if most of them is sold over the net can someone 'check' the engine so I know it's in good condition, so I don't pay alot for a engine that won't even turn around, as it will cost me alot for shipping/etc if it's a dead engine..

the t50 gearbox that follow the 3T-GTE is just the same as my T50 gearbox for 2T-B? if that's true I don't need the gearbox.. it will just cost me more for shipping/etc as I already have a couple of T50/T40 gearboxes in my garage..

Edited January 22, 200521 yr by David

for a street car i wouldn't run anything over 10:1. one of the guys on starletracing decked his 4k head so it was running over 11:1, he said it FLEW, but only lasted a few months (he didnt care anyway, 4ag transplant time). so it really depends how often you want to rebuild your motor :danger:

:)

 

atm I'm running about 10.5:1 - lol - wonder how long she will last :thumbsup:

david: I personally think your wasting your time with a 3T-GTE. Theyre hard to find, way overpriced (compartively) and in turn are hard to find parts for. Get yourself an SR20DET/CA18DET front cut and do the mods to fit them. Far more viable option and you should be able to find the front cut yourself. Better yet you can even run the engine in the front cut to make sure its ok.